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Need 2 bee Edukated. Recommend Some CAT6 Wire for In Wall/Attic

Googer

Googer

Lifer
I am looking for some high quality CAT6 Wire. I know there can be large degrees in quality with this stuff. So I am looking to buy from name brands who specialize in this type of thing, because I do not want to have to rewire the house at a later time. CAT6 MHz ratings are subjective and vary wildly, so brand integrity is a must have. I am thinking Quabbin 1500series or Belden 7881a or 7882a but what is the difference?

I will be running most of the cable near 120/240vac lines across the attic of a 1 story home. Should I use STP or more flexible UTP? Bigger is not always better, should I use 23ga or 24ga?


My first consideration is this, but I have no experience with it.

http://www.firefold.com/1000-F...23AWG-P224.aspx?afid=3
http://www.computercablestore...._CAT6_600Mh_PID49.aspx

(E.G., Channel Master makes Good RG6 Coax, who makes good CAT6 STP or UTP)


EDIT:

Need a nice set of strippers and crimpers. I am looking for those strippers that are "automatic" and pull the right amount of insulation from the wire in one squeeze of the lever/trigger.
 
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Your first link is the one you want. Always run solid condutors thru the walls or conduits. Stranded is only for patch cables between the device and the wall plate / router or patch panel. I can't say about the quality of the one you linked to, but it seems ok. The Belden 7882A is also CAT 6 but is not shielded and is also 23AWG
 
Do not run shielded wire unless you really know about proper termination and bonding. Improperly bonded STP will do the exact opposite of what you want; it acts like a radio antenna to BRING IN all sorts of interference!
UTP is very forgiving with regard to AC wiring, just try to keep from running parallel and close to it for long distances. Regarding brands, I have been able to get any cat6 cable to pass certification. I prefer using the less fancy cabling with just a ribbon separator.
The fancy stuff with the plastic cross in it is stiffer, larger in diameter and slower to terminate and run.
 
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Originally posted by: bruceb
Your first link is the one you want. Always run solid condutors thru the walls or conduits. Stranded is only for patch cables between the device and the wall plate / router or patch panel. I can't say about the quality of the one you linked to, but it seems ok. The Belden 7882A is also CAT 6 but is not shielded and is also 23AWG
Click to expand...

Is the 7881a a solid conductor?
 
Don't worry about the models if you're doing SOHO stuff. Just get a good cat6a cable from belden. Unshielded. Shielded is a no-no. Get jacks that match the gauge of the wire you're using - cat6/6a has different gauges. What you're looking for is "horizontal" cable.
 
Originally posted by: spidey07
Don't worry about the models if you're doing SOHO stuff. Just get a good cat6a cable from belden. Unshielded. Shielded is a no-no. Get jacks that match the gauge of the wire you're using - cat6/6a has different gauges. What you're looking for is "horizontal" cable.
Click to expand...

I though shielded would be the way to go, why isn't that so? I am also looking for something that is future compatible with 10g ethernet and the quabbin 1500 claims it is capable of it.
 
Just get some belden cat6a horizontal cable, jacks certified by belden and you'll be fine for 10G. Just completely eliminate the word shielded from your head and thought process - I know I sound harsh, just avoid at all costs, it isn't used and you won't be able to install it properly. If you're wiring and need coax look to the cable that has two cat6a and a RG6 coax all bundled together.

A few inches from the power cables and you're fine.
 
What is the difference between horizontal and vertical wire? Maybe get some mounting hardware then run the wire along the overhead rafters and avoid contact all together?
 
Originally posted by: Googer
Originally posted by: spidey07
Don't worry about the models if you're doing SOHO stuff. Just get a good cat6a cable from belden. Unshielded. Shielded is a no-no. Get jacks that match the gauge of the wire you're using - cat6/6a has different gauges. What you're looking for is "horizontal" cable.
Click to expand...

I though shielded would be the way to go, why isn't that so? I am also looking for something that is future compatible with 10g ethernet and the quabbin 1500 claims it is capable of it.
Click to expand...

See my post above the why not. UTP does a fine job of eliminating interference, and STP if it is not properly bonded will bring everything in to the cable. It really sucks that way.
CAT6 is good for 10Gig for 60 meters. That means ANY CAT6 cable. CAT6a is better.

What is the difference between horizontal and vertical wire? Maybe get some mounting hardware then run the wire along the overhead rafters and avoid contact all together?
Click to expand...
Riser cable is certified for running up several floors in a vertical chase. It is good for horizontal also.
No cable will carry 10gig if it is improperly installed. I can't tell you all the ins and outs in a post but here are a few pointers:

1) watch bend radius. keep bends gentle. See the specs for exact figures.
2) be careful of installation bends and 'assholes'. "Asshole" is the highly technical term describing what a wire does when it forms a loop that gets pulled tighter and tighter till it deforms the jacket. These loops feed right out of the box. The only way to avoid them entirely is to have help at the box while pulling in the cable.
3) Use reel-in-box cable if at all possible. it helps with item #2.
4) don't zip-tie or otherwise secure the cable tightly. Simply put, it can interfere with proper operation and cause reflection of the signals. if you must use ties be very very gentle.
5) think of laying the cable rather than pulling it. try not to put it in a huge bind while dragging it in, and support it at least every 4' . Use supports that don't put a harsh load on the wire. Caddy makes a cool retainer with a gentle broad support.
6) if you are making several runs, invest in a few boxes. Your time is worth more than the wire.
7) if dragging wire in through a conduit or long restricted space, be aware of the possibility of 'burning' a wire. 'burning' occurs when a wire that is already in place restricts the new wire being dragged in, and the new wire literally burns or cuts through the jacket and into the conductors of the original wire. It is a real bummer because you may never see the damage and have a hell of a time troubleshooting it when it fails certification.
To eliminate 'burning', measure up the runs going through that conduit and pre-cut them with plenty to spare, and drag the whole bundle in at once. See #6 for the ideal solution, enough boxes to drag them all in out of the box.
8)Leave plenty of slack in the jack end, at least 2'. leave at least 6' to spare at the patch panel. you can't just splice it and it will save your butt if you have to move the panel, misjudged routing, etc.
9) overbuild the cable plant. if you need 1 drop, bring 2. Something will change and you will be happy you did. Some of those places are a real bitch to get back to, even impossible after construction. Keep in mind #7 too. You can mess a whole lot of things up trying to drag in a wire you could have brought in in the beginning.
 
Originally posted by: skyking
Originally posted by: Googer
Originally posted by: spidey07
Don't worry about the models if you're doing SOHO stuff. Just get a good cat6a cable from belden. Unshielded. Shielded is a no-no. Get jacks that match the gauge of the wire you're using - cat6/6a has different gauges. What you're looking for is "horizontal" cable.
Click to expand...

I though shielded would be the way to go, why isn't that so? I am also looking for something that is future compatible with 10g ethernet and the quabbin 1500 claims it is capable of it.
Click to expand...

See my post above the why not. UTP does a fine job of eliminating interference, and STP if it is not properly bonded will bring everything in to the cable. It really sucks that way.
CAT6 is good for 10Gig for 60 meters. That means ANY CAT6 cable. CAT6a is better.

What is the difference between horizontal and vertical wire? Maybe get some mounting hardware then run the wire along the overhead rafters and avoid contact all together?
Click to expand...
Riser cable is certified for running up several floors in a vertical chase. It is good for horizontal also.
No cable will carry 10gig if it is improperly installed. I can't tell you all the ins and outs in a post but here are a few pointers:

1) watch bend radius. keep bends gentle. See the specs for exact figures.
2) be careful of installation bends and 'assholes'. "Asshole" is the highly technical term describing what a wire does when it forms a loop that gets pulled tighter and tighter till it deforms the jacket. These loops feed right out of the box. The only way to avoid them entirely is to have help at the box while pulling in the cable.
3) Use reel-in-box cable if at all possible. it helps with item #2.
4) don't zip-tie or otherwise secure the cable tightly. Simply put, it can interfere with proper operation and cause reflection of the signals. if you must use ties be very very gentle.
5) think of laying the cable rather than pulling it. try not to put it in a huge bind while dragging it in, and support it at least every 4' . Use supports that don't put a harsh load on the wire. Caddy makes a cool retainer with a gentle broad support.
6) if you are making several runs, invest in a few boxes. Your time is worth more than the wire.
7) if dragging wire in through a conduit or long restricted space, be aware of the possibility of 'burning' a wire. 'burning' occurs when a wire that is already in place restricts the new wire being dragged in, and the new wire literally burns or cuts through the jacket and into the conductors of the original wire. It is a real bummer because you may never see the damage and have a hell of a time troubleshooting it when it fails certification.
To eliminate 'burning', measure up the runs going through that conduit and pre-cut them with plenty to spare, and drag the whole bundle in at once. See #6 for the ideal solution, enough boxes to drag them all in out of the box.
8)Leave plenty of slack in the jack end, at least 2'. leave at least 6' to spare at the patch panel. you can't just splice it and it will save your butt if you have to move the panel, misjudged routing, etc.
9) overbuild the cable plant. if you need 1 drop, bring 2. Something will change and you will be happy you did. Some of those places are a real bitch to get back to, even impossible after construction. Keep in mind #7 too. You can mess a whole lot of things up trying to drag in a wire you could have brought in in the beginning.
Click to expand...

Great.

I I need around 300-400 feet and plan on buying a 500 or 1000 foot bulk spool or box. Then might use the excess to wire my parents home or just to keep around.

I also need some decent crimpers and cable strippers, preferably the pistol grip-like automatic type but where do I find them and what would you recommend?
 
If you are going to spend all the money don't ruin it by crimping. Get a good punchdown tool with a 110 blade and a pair of klien electrician scissors. Home depot has them both.
Practice scoring the jacket until you are sure you are not cutting conductors below, and then bend/twist it off.
Terminate all runs in keystone jacks, mounted in faceplates or surface mount boxes. Anything else is not certified and asking for troubles.
Buy premade patch cables for a few bucks each to hook up.
Some people have the right spot for a patch panel, i did not. I ran 10 drops in my house and installed two 6 port plates in low voltage brackets, it is clean and flush to the wall.
 
Originally posted by: skyking
If you are going to spend all the money don't ruin it by crimping. Get a good punchdown tool with a 110 blade and a pair of klien electrician scissors. Home depot has them both.
Practice scoring the jacket until you are sure you are not cutting conductors below, and then bend/twist it off.
Terminate all runs in keystone jacks, mounted in faceplates or surface mount boxes. Anything else is not certified and asking for troubles.
Buy premade patch cables for a few bucks each to hook up.
Some people have the right spot for a patch panel, i did not. I ran 10 drops in my house and installed two 6 port plates in low voltage brackets, it is clean and flush to the wall.
Click to expand...

My wire stripping skills leave a lot to be desired. I know there is a tool out there that will do the job with out any guesswork or practice. Just stick the wire in and squeeze, the rest is automatic. Where can I get one?
 
I don't know of one for removing jacket. All you need to do is remove the outer jacket and it only takes a little scoring, then a bend and twist. After that you punch the unstripped wires into an interference fit that cuts through the insulation for you.
 
Originally posted by: skyking
I don't know of one for removing jacket. All you need to do is remove the outer jacket and it only takes a little scoring, then a bend and twist. After that you punch the unstripped wires into an interference fit that cuts through the insulation for you.
Click to expand...

The jacket that bundles all cables as one is not hard to remove with a knife or scissors.
 
Googer, Belden or Berk-Tek cable. Ortronics or Panduit terminations.

Beware the no-name Chinese stuff. They'd print cat 8 on the jacket if that meant you'd buy it.

For all everyone talks about shielded cat5/6 cable on this forum, I've never even seen any in a professional install. Combined with the pitfalls, it's not necessary in any remotely normal situation you'd encounter. (it does exist for good reasons, but you'd be in one of those situations where doing it yourself would be bad)
 
Originally posted by: cmetz
Googer, Belden or Berk-Tek cable. Ortronics or Panduit terminations.

Beware the no-name Chinese stuff. They'd print cat 8 on the jacket if that meant you'd buy it.

For all everyone talks about shielded cat5/6 cable on this forum, I've never even seen any in a professional install. Combined with the pitfalls, it's not necessary in any remotely normal situation you'd encounter. (it does exist for good reasons, but you'd be in one of those situations where doing it yourself would be bad)
Click to expand...

The only place I've seen shielded cabling installed is in production factory situations with very high EMI. It was big bucks for everything in there🙂
 
Originally posted by: cmetz
Googer, Belden or Berk-Tek cable. Ortronics or Panduit terminations.

Beware the no-name Chinese stuff. They'd print cat 8 on the jacket if that meant you'd buy it.

For all everyone talks about shielded cat5/6 cable on this forum, I've never even seen any in a professional install. Combined with the pitfalls, it's not necessary in any remotely normal situation you'd encounter. (it does exist for good reasons, but you'd be in one of those situations where doing it yourself would be bad)
Click to expand...

I am well aware of the Chinese stuff, it's the reason for creating this thread.
 
skyking took the time to add some really good recommendations to this thread for anyone that is going to pull cable in thier home.

These types of cabling questions must come up at least once a week (what cable should I buy? why shouldn't I make my own patch cables? what's the difference between stranded and solid? etc...).

Can I vote for a sticky with cabling FAQs?
 
seepy83 said:
Can I vote for a sticky with cabling FAQs?
Click to expand...

You get my vote if we can get "you don't need shielded" in 72 point font in the FAQ someplace.

EDIT: And "Category cable Crimpers / crimped patch cables are your enemy." is 72 point font also.
 
It'd be nice to a have a sticky with this info, along with tools on how to run the cable. This thread definitely helped with cable section, and terminating the cable.

Now a noob like myself is trying to find tools that physically help you run the wire through the attic and inside the walls ( I've never ran wire, cut me some slack 😛 ).

I have a small project myself in a house that I just moved into. It's far from my friends so I don't know if I will have any helpers, other than my gf, but I'd rather not spend her time running wire if you catch my drift.

If there are tools, that are not too expensive, (I was reading about glow rods?), I don't mind paying for it if it will make my life easier.

If this thread is stickied, I'd adjust the title to Educuate me on cables, networking tools, and accessories" 😛. It could contain a list of links to other pages, but it is nice to have it explained here in case those links go down in the future.

Thanks for the info on cat6. I'm looking at a Cat 6 UTP Solid, Riser Rated (CMR), 500MHz 23AWG 1000FT Bulk Cable - Blue on Monoprice ...87 bucks
 
seepy83 said:
skyking took the time to add some really good recommendations to this thread for anyone that is going to pull cable in thier home.

These types of cabling questions must come up at least once a week (what cable should I buy? why shouldn't I make my own patch cables? what's the difference between stranded and solid? etc...).

Can I vote for a sticky with cabling FAQs?
Click to expand...

I think if you can create such a thread with correct, useful, and authoritative information, the moderators would probably sticky it.
 
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