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My wiring job -- very disappointed. Thoughts?

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What does that mean?

My computer right now is running at 2.66 ghz (in the bios, it has some 20x option enabled, but there's another option where, if I enter 200, it goes to 4 ghz. Is that all I have to do to overclock?)
 
When it's running at the 12x multiplier like in that first screenshot, that means it's at idle and clocking itself down to save power. And yeah all you gotta do really is pump that number to 200 for 4gHz. You'll likely need to raise voltages a tad though, bump CPU vcore by .02v, and see if it boots
 
You won't have to raise the voltages much with a D0 chip. I wouldn't go more than .06v over stock on anything. Keep DIMM voltage at auto



Windows says its 2.66 even when its running at 1.6 so people dont call wondering why their processor is running lower than rated frequency because they dont know what speedstep is. The same reason that in 32 bit windows if you have 8gb it will show in the control panel as 8gb, even though you really only "have" ~3.25gb
 
🙁 So what the heck, I don't actually have 2.66 ghz?

I didn't buy 2.66 only to get 1.66. I wanted 2.66 so I could overclock to 4+
 
Oh interesting, it seems to only go down to 1.6 when it's not really doing much. When being stress tested, however:

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7466/prime95.jpg

How are the speeds/temps/voltages/whatever?

If I wanted to jack this up to a max of 4 ghz, would that be unsafe for anything? What else, specifically, would I change, and how much? How could I figure out an optimal mode, here?
 
I know nvidia's nTune has easy cpu overclocking tool, idk if your mobo would be supported but on nTune if you have it there should be a motherboard settings, and when you click it there should be a a overclocking tool in the top left area.
 
But I mean, say I change that 200 thing (idk what this is, but something in the bios like BKCLK or something, when set to 200, gives me 4 ghz) -- what else should I change?
 
I am very worried. I just tried that 3D MarkVantage thing and everything was really choppy (and the water effects in the first demo were screwed up beyond belief. My screen was full of water effects gone bad). I thought the 295 was supposed to BEAST this sort of thing.
 
Originally posted by: Sekkai
🙁 So what the heck, I don't actually have 2.66 ghz?

I didn't buy 2.66 only to get 1.66. I wanted 2.66 so I could overclock to 4+
Click to expand...

egads read up on the chip on anandtech/tomshardware etc. without power saving features your psu would fry
 
I think I am possibly having driver issues. I just tried installing some stuff from my Gigabyte CD and it errored out/restarted my computer. Arrrgh.

Downloading more evga drivers in hopes that my gtx will start to operate like it should.
 
Hey, what can I say? I first built an IBM-compatible about 25 years ago. My concept of cable management is that empty 5-1/4-inch drive bays make a great place to stuff all the loose cables so they don't fall into the CPU fan. 😀

I think your cabling looks great!
 
It drops to 1.6ghz when the CPU is not loaded to save heat and energy, you can turn that feature off in bios .

It sounds like you may have ram problems! that would explain your problems loading drivers and possibly the choppy effect in 3dmark. Download and run memtest for several hours to test your ram, it could just be that the board isn't setting the timings or voltage correctly and you need to adjust them to regain stability or you could have a bad stick.

When overclocking take small steps forward and test your CPU and ram with stress testing programs at each step up
 
I've long given up the idea of aesthetics of a desktop computer... at least the inside portion. I organize the cables to the point where they don't impede airflow, and then I'm done.

I used to make it all fancy and whatnot, but what I came to realize, is that in doing so, it made it a huge PITA whenever I decided to upgrade something in the computer.
 
Some new pics of it all, plus some shots of the new wiring job inside. Everything unused is pushed behind the mobo plate. I had to put the cpu fan on top of the heatsink blowing upward (I assume this is pulling air through the heatsink) because the side fan got in the way when I'd try to close the case.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/6407/dsc00534w.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9498/dsc00537l.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/2152/dsc00538v.jpg
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/8835/dsc00539b.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/6186/dsc00540rug.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/51/dsc00542dtf.jpg
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/1120/dsc00543p.jpg
 
Originally posted by: Sekkai
I had to put the cpu fan on top of the heatsink blowing upward (I assume this is pulling air through the heatsink)...
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not so sure this is such a great idea. The push-pull thing has been debated many times here, and I think the general consensus is push, not pull...unless the fan is mounted center (or interior, whatever).

 
Sekkai, what are your temps like? If the temps are OK, then leave the pull configuration as is. If it's not, then I'd personally just remove the side case fan. It looks like your video card is a dual slot so it's probably exhausting the air out the air, and drawing cool air in from the HDD area... which should be pretty cool since you don't have a ton of drives stacked closely together.

For the other crashing stuff. Make REALLY SURE your system is 100% stable BEFORE you start overclocking. And then make sure you read up on online overclocking guides before you start. It will save you 1) from killing your system 2) from asking a ton of questions that are already answered. If you overclock before you are sure the system is stable you will never know if it's crashing because of the overclock, or because you have a faulty part. And if you start overclocking without knowing what the settings do, then you risk killing your brand new rig. You can't just leave everything on auto because most times the mobo will just pour in more voltage than needed and thats a sure recipe for disaster.
 
Yeah if you like, write down the GPU temp, core 0-3 temps, and NB temp at idle and load (I use HWmonitor for it). Then remove the side fan and put the CPU fan in push configuration and check the temps. If your GPU is like 1c higher, but your CPU it 5c cooler, there's your answer. Yeah push is usually better, but it's not a drastic difference, only a couple degrees
 
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