If the controller isn't potted, that is a bad design but on the bright side, could just mean it has bad solder joints from vibration, or at least allows access for common fault components like mosfet(s), though the 'fets may be soldered down on the PCB and require significant effort with a hot air rework station to replace.
The switch should be easy enough to test, assuming it's normally open then you'd just jumper it closed to complete the circuit OR measure continuity or resistance with it closed using a multimeter.
Backing up a bit, how did you determine the integrated circuit isn't functional? Had you already used a multimeter to measure that there is no power output to the motor? If not, I'd also look at whether the motor has thermal protection and that fuse or breaker has failed. That would typically be considered a "non user servicable part" but that doesn't necessarily mean the whole motor would need replaced rather than just the fuse or breaker - depend on whether there was a legitimate fault or whether it was just stalled engine due to what you were mowing or with thermal breakers, eventually enough temperature cycling can make them fail with no fault causing it.