My first WC build - i5 2500k - 6950x2 - single loop

[aigomorla]

I've always wanted to do a WC setup, and I am pumped I am starting to dive into it .

Current setup :

CLICK HERE FOR PICTURE (warning, it's huge) :
http://vivithemage.com/zen/albums/vivi/600T/P1000014.JPG

i5 2500k
h70
Asus P8P67 Pro (rev3 is on it's way from newegg)
4GB x 4 ripjaw DDR3 1600's
XFX 6950's x2 flashed to unlocked + OC'd (will OC more underwater)


Potential water purchase (keep in mind I have nothing yet) :

Resevoir : Koolance (RP-452x2) Dual 5.25" Reservoir for 1-2 D5 Pumps, Dual Loops
Pump : MCP655 - Variable
Front Rad : Phobya Xtreme 200mm Radiator
Top Rad : XSPC RS240 BLACK
CPU Block : Apogee XT (Rev 2) - Indigo extreme for my compound
MCW80 x2
Enzo MOS-C1 and BMR-C1 x2

Fittings : how many/whatsize?
Tubes : Some sort of PrimoFlex Pro ?
extras :
tube cutters
IandH Silver KillCoil



Potential loop :

Res -> RS240 -> cpu -> gpu 1 -> gpu 2 -> phobya -> MCP655 -> res

IF that's too hot ... maybe

Res -> RS240 -> cpu -> phobya -> gpu 1 -> gpu 2 -> MCP655 -> Res

Questions :

1) The GPU/cooling I decided to go universal, because I plan to upgrade in 6-12 months for BF3/D3. My only issue is connecting them with the least resistance. is there a simple method?

2) Tubing, is this the correct size for my pump/rad(s)?

3) How do you actually attach the tubes to compressors? noobishly, I don't know!

4) How hard is it to fill/bleed with this reservoir?

5) What are pump tops?

6) How is that res + pump combo? I've read they CAN leak?

7) Where's a good guide to do the install, step by step? Putting barbs on hoses, making sure it's directional, etc?

8) What should I use to test the pump (without needing to turn PC ON?) I've got a spare PSU laying around

9) What size hose/barbs do I need? I do like the compression ones.

10) best way to cool chips on GPU's?

11) What am I missing? I am purchasing a precision toolset, as I don't have a good one at the moment.

Original First Post...

Post merg, i somehow goof'd post merg.... :\

 

[ViviTheMage]

I am going to make my own thread, no more hijacking

 

[ViviTheMage]

I've always wanted to do a WC setup, and I am pumped I am starting to dive into it .

Current setup :

CLICK HERE FOR PICTURE (warning, it's huge) :
http://vivithemage.com/zen/albums/vivi/600T/P1000014.JPG

i5 2500k
h70
Asus P8P67 Pro (rev3 is on it's way from newegg)
4GB x 4 ripjaw DDR3 1600's
XFX 6950's x2 flashed to unlocked + OC'd (will OC more underwater)


Potential water purchase (keep in mind I have nothing yet) :

Resevoir : Koolance (RP-452x2) Dual 5.25" Reservoir for 1-2 D5 Pumps, Dual Loops
Pump : MCP655 - Variable
Front Rad : Phobya Xtreme 200mm Radiator
Top Rad : XSPC RS240 BLACK
CPU Block : Apogee XT (Rev 2) - Indigo extreme for my compound
MCW80 x2
Enzo MOS-C1 and BMR-C1 x2

Fittings : how many/whatsize?
Tubes : Some sort of PrimoFlex Pro ?
extras :
tube cutters
IandH Silver KillCoil



Potential loop :

Res -> RS240 -> cpu -> gpu 1 -> gpu 2 -> phobya -> MCP655 -> res

IF that's too hot ... maybe

Res -> RS240 -> cpu -> phobya -> gpu 1 -> gpu 2 -> MCP655 -> Res

Questions :

1) The GPU/cooling I decided to go universal, because I plan to upgrade in 6-12 months for BF3/D3. My only issue is connecting them with the least resistance. is there a simple method?

2) Tubing, is this the correct size for my pump/rad(s)?

3) How do you actually attach the tubes to compressors? noobishly, I don't know!

4) How hard is it to fill/bleed with this reservoir?

5) What are pump tops?

6) How is that res + pump combo? I've read they CAN leak?

7) Where's a good guide to do the install, step by step? Putting barbs on hoses, making sure it's directional, etc?

8) What should I use to test the pump (without needing to turn PC ON?) I've got a spare PSU laying around

9) What size hose/barbs do I need? I do like the compression ones.

10) best way to cool chips on GPU's?

11) What am I missing? I am purchasing a precision toolset, as I don't have a good one at the moment.

 

[muskie32]

1) The GPU/cooling I decided to go universal, because I plan to upgrade in 6-12 months for BF3/D3. My only issue is connecting them with the least resistance. is there a simple method?


2) Tubing, is this the correct size for my pump/rad(s)?
The default barb on the pump you selected is 1/2 ID, so I would stick with 1/2 ID 3/4 OD

3) How do you actually attach the tubes to compressors? noobishly, I don't know!
The top of the fitting screws on and off. You take the top off and slide the tubing on. Then you screw the top back on.

4) How hard is it to fill/bleed with this reservoir?
I just bought that res and have yet to use it. But it is much easier if you incorperate a T line in the loop(s)

5) What are pump tops?
I am not sure what you are asking... Do you mean the barbs?

6) How is that res + pump combo? I've read they CAN leak?
Everything has a chance of leaking... Naturally I would use Non-conductive fluid. But wait for others to chime in.

7) Where's a good guide to do the install, step by step? Putting barbs on hoses, making sure it's directional, etc?
All the waterblocks and pumps come with a manual. They will tell you which way to direct the flow, ect.

8) What should I use to test the pump (without needing to turn PC ON?) I've got a spare PSU laying around
You can use your spare PSU to test the loop. Just get a paper clip bend it and stick one end in in the green lead, and the other end in the black lead exactly to the right of the green lead.
9) What size hose/barbs do I need? I do like the compression ones.
Since your pump has built in 1/2 ID barbs, I would stick with 1/2 ID 3/4 OD barbs.

10) best way to cool chips on GPU's?
Full covered blocks IMO... But since you want to get universal, i would wait for others to chime in.



I am still rather new to watercooling to DEFINITELY wait for others to share there opinions!

Have fun!

Muskie32

 

[ViviTheMage]

You can buy pump tops, like this :

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/78...CP-650655.html

Not sure what they are ... haha.

thanks for the info, so with all the hardware I have, could I get 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD barbs and tubing?

How should I mix my water ... I am thinking of getting solid blue tubes (or should I go clear, with blue dye), maybe white...to go inside my 600T. I do not plan on UV/cold cathodes/blinking lights/etc.

 

[muskie32]

Yes, I guess you could get a pump top if you want everything to look perfect.

With tubing, I would get white. Looks Great IMO.
http://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Whit...0220318&sr=8-2
http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Wat...0220419&sr=8-3

I think Red and white would look good together. But this is all about personal preference.

 

[ViviTheMage]

so a pump top is literally for looks?

ooo, precut/sized hoses?

I thought you could mix water to make it colored, instead of paying a lot for stuff like that?

 

[muskie32]

I only use Primochill fluid in my loops(s). They sell a clear version, but it costs just as much. Or you could go the plain old distilled water rout.

EDIT:

And yes, to my knowledge it is just for looks.

 

[ViviTheMage]

That looks fun ... clear tubing + http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21407

all in that Reservoir would be cool I think. Is 32oz even enough? I assume I need 2 32oz bottles ... or can I make my own to save a few bucks, and drop in some dye from that syringes?

 

[muskie32]

Primochill's watercolor does not hold well... So I would not recommend it. I just use it because i use white tubing. I have bought the steel blue b4. It only lasted a bit...

One bottle it usually enough to fill the loop. Just don't use it too leak test... Use Distilled water.

 

[aigomorla]

that res is the pump top ViVi.... lol.

Also i dont recomend that res yet.. ive seen too many people having installation problems because the ports are kinda funny on it unless ur running it with both pumps.

i was honestly hoping you would go with dual DDC's or the DDC res, with dual DDC's.

Then you can run all your EQ on one side... and a loop straight to the rad and back on the other side, while connecting the two bays together.

That looks fun ... clear tubing + http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=21407

all in that Reservoir would be cool I think. Is 32oz even enough? I assume I need 2 32oz bottles ... or can I make my own to save a few bucks, and drop in some dye from that syringes?

No stay away from premix.

We've come a long way in Watercooling to the point where we no longer need premix.

All your EQ is sound, ur not mixing ALU + Copper, so you dont need a good 2/3rds of the stuff thats inside that premix.

Just use distilled H2O, the kind u get a drug store.
Distilled... not Drinking.

U dont want the minerals.


If you want a good color.. use a Mahiem Dye..
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_381_915

He's a guy who worked hard at getting a good dye for our hobby.
And they give great results:

(here i was beta testing the product for him and giving imput)

 

[ViviTheMage]

Link to recommended DDC? I am not sure what DDC means? And EQ?

For leak testing, I can use strait distilled water, nothing else?

What size tubes do I need for this setup? Do I need that PT nuke killer stuff?

If I go with the full cover 6950 stuff ... do I need to purchase a backplate to passively cool the top of the card?

With a full cover, what can I use to connect them nicely?

If I stick with MCW80's, what can I use to connect them?

 

[aigomorla]

Link to recommended DDC? I am not sure what DDC means? And EQ?

For leak testing, I can use strait distilled water, nothing else?

What size tubes do I need for this setup? Do I need that PT nuke killer stuff?

If I go with the full cover 6950 stuff ... do I need to purchase a backplate to passively cool the top of the card?

With a full cover, what can I use to connect them nicely?

If I stick with MCW80's, what can I use to connect them?

Tubing.. get cheap tubing for now dan... your going to want to tinker... so you wont cry when you overcut, or undercut cheap tubing.

Masterkleer 7/16ID 5/8 OD with 1/2 barbs.

Also i dont recomend recycling tubing on next builds... once the coolant drains, sometimes the internal side of the tubing will dry out and crack. Then you'll get particulate matter inside your coolant, which will look bad.

Also you will get clouding forming in the tubing faster. But cheap tubing will cloud, however i dont think your first loop will stay up that long unless ur really done with your setup, and you dont like to play around with new toys.

The DDC will not be louder then your hard drives if you have them on a sponge. They Emit a high pitched rpm noise, cuz its spinning @ 3500rpms roughly... but they noise can be deaden'd by putting them on a dry sponge.

the DDC is also known as the MCP-355, and the D5 is known as the 655.

The DDC bay res from koolance is better then the D5 bay res, because it came after.
The D5 koolance bay res is undergoing another upgrade, and has not been released yet, which is why im recommending u going the DDC route.

Full cover blocks = Bling + easy of install in one package.
They dont require anything else. You dont need a backplate, unless your stock card came with one, and you can just recycle that.

The full card waterblock targets 90% of the hotspots on the card and uses water pathways to cool them.

In short, even if u didnt use a backplate, unless u had ram on the top side which was cooled by the backplate, u probably wouldnt need one, because the card will overall be running a lot cooler.

One big bonus in full card blocks are they have ported options top and bottom.

This allows you to connect the bottom card block like so using bridges:

I usually recomend straight distilled + silver.
Nothing more nothing less, unless your going to have lights inside your computer on all the time, like UV CCFL's.

If you do, then you will have an accelerated biological growth, which means u may need to have some copper sulfate or pHN biocide.

If you want color, get the Mayhems, dont use premix, or any additives, as it will coat, or worse, clog your cpu block.


Dan that phoybia is pricey rad... If your after silence... upgrade the RS, to a PA or a RX. And get a MCR120 up front... or better yet... get a MCR220 up top, and a MCR120 up front.. and upgrade your cards to full cover.

EDIT: nm u cant fit a 120x3 up top..
EDIT2: You cant use anything but a MCR220 up at top from what it seems.
Even then... can u messure exactly how much spacing you have from the fan holes to the first object that u think the rad/fan would hit?

 

[ViviTheMage]

OK, so if I go with full cover blocks ... should I just get the EK-FC6970- Acetal ? And what bridge should I get?

DDC = Danger Dan?

Little confused here, why so many different barbs?
Masterkleer 7/16ID 5/8 OD with 1/2 barbs.

So you're saying replace my koolance res. with something else? Link to the recommended res you're talking about?

I want to stick with the 655 ... it's nice and quiet, and i've heard it does not emit any odd high pitched noises either. prefer in the res as well, since it will save space.

So distilled water + some drops of coolant, and throw some silver strip in my res. and I should be good? Seems simple enough for water.

What size tubes should I use? I do not mind getting 15-20 feet of tube, and keeping some around for later as well. i am hoping to have it set up once, and not have to touch it til new cards come out.

 

[aigomorla]

OK, so if I go with full cover blocks ... should I just get the EK-FC6970- Acetal ?

DDC = Danger Dan?

Little confused here, why so many different barbs?
Masterkleer 7/16ID 5/8 OD with 1/2 barbs.

So you're saying replace my koolance res. with something else? Link to the recommended res you're talking about?

I want to stick with the 655 ... it's nice and quiet, and i've heard it does not emit any odd high pitched noises either. prefer in the res as well, since it will save space.

So distilled water + some drops of coolant, and throw some silver strip in my res. and I should be good? Seems simple enough for water.

What size tubes should I use? I do not mind getting 15-20 feet of tube, and keeping some around for later as well. i am hoping to have it set up once, and not have to touch it til new cards come out.

Its a good res.. has weird port holes.. read this thread towards the end:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=267208

Barbs are messured by the ID Inner Diameter, for the hose.
So if a barb says 1/2, it means it will take a 1/2 ID hose.
3/8 barbs takes a 3/8ID hose... ect.

The second number that follows on hose is Outer Diameter.
The thicker the more bends u can get with the tubing b4 it kinks.
The hose i recommend is good for starting. Its cheap, and does its purpose.

The more expensive tubing, is better, but should be limited to when u finalized what your going to have setup.

That tubing will make you cry if u undercut.

For now id say go with the cheap tubing.. play around with your system.
You may want to go further or you may realize this is it.

Once u have a rough idea of how final a setup is going to be, then use expensive tubing.

Its not worth getting expensive tubing, if you see yourself playing with the system every 3 months...

If you see yourself with a system up longer, then yes, go ahead and use the expensive tubing.

 

[ViviTheMage]

So what are you recommending when you say DDC?

What about the other questions

 

[dawp]

dcc is the swiftech mcp350/355/35x series of pumps.

http://www.koolertek.com/computer-parts/pc/Swiftech-MCP35X-Pump-224p2433.htm

you can get clearflex tubing here cheap, they are going out of business and everything is 1/2 off the price shown. the one one I linked to is the one I bought, 15ft.

I also got two of the anti-kink coils to go along with the tubing
http://www.crazypc.com/products/93271UPB.html

koolance also makes a res for the ddc pumps:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/kordu5refor1.html

 

[littlezipp]

Looks pretty solid, and very similar to my setup.
I'm running crossfire 6970's in my 600T right now as well with an H70 on the CPU. Something for you to consider, once you remove all the GPU heat from the case your H70 will perform even better than it is right now... Idle on my i7 970 stays in the high 20's and load does not exceed 45 or so.
For the Rad - the RX series is going to provide better air flow = quieter cooling solution
Tubing - I run 7/16 Primochill over my 1/2 fittings. For that build you will likely need less than 8 feet even with a small error or 2.
Blocks if keeping for awhile - go with full coverage. If swapping soon like you state the MCW80's are great (and I have 2 sitting here... PM me if you want to talk...)
Tube cutters are a waste of money
Make sure to have enough thermal compound for the GPU's

 

[ViviTheMage]

I definitely want to stay with a single MP655, i've heard better things, and longer reliability.

That RP-402X2 looks different then what I linked? What does DDC mean? Just takes a mcp350/355/35x?

Looks pretty solid, and very similar to my setup.
I'm running crossfire 6970's in my 600T right now as well with an H70 on the CPU. Something for you to consider, once you remoce all the GPU heat from the case your H70 will perform even better than it is right now... Idle on my i7 970 stays in the high 20's and load does not exceed 45 or so.
For the Rad - the RX series is going to provide better air flow = quieter cooling solution
Tubing - I run 7/16 Primochill over my 1/2 fittings. For that build you will likely need less than 8 feet even with a small error or 2.
Blocks if keeping for awhile - go with full coverage. If swapping soon like you state the MCW80's are great (and I have 2 sitting here... PM me if you want to talk...)
Tube cutters are a waste of money
Make sure to have enough thermal compound for the GPU's

How'd you set up your MCW80's? I want pictures!! I am curious about your rad as well, how you mounted them and whatnot.

The H70 is fine .. get great temps, even with video cards in. Barely break s 50C gaming @ 4.7~ghz oc (no volts).

 

[dawp]

ddc it the type of pump the mcp35x is and the 402x2 utilizes the ddc pumps instead of d5.

http://skinneelabs.com/pumps/ddc/

 

[littlezipp]

I definitely want to stay with a single MP655, i've heard better things, and longer reliability.

That RP-402X2 looks different then what I linked? What does DDC mean? Just takes a mcp350/355/35x?



How'd you set up your MCW80's? I want pictures!! I am curious about your rad as well, how you mounted them and whatnot.

The H70 is fine .. get great temps, even with video cards in. Barely break s 50C gaming @ 4.7~ghz oc (no volts).

Sorry, I didn't take pics before swapping for full coverage EK blocks. I decided a pair of 6970's was going to last a long time so I splurged and went with the full blocks. After seeing the aftermarket for these blocks I figure I can sell for 60-70% of price I paid (less than $90 a piece) which is worth it for me.
I run a single RX360 on top of my case. I have plans for a fan box, but this is working, it's quiet and cool. My pc sits behind my TV so it doesn't have to look pretty. Just removed the top pop up panel and placed it right there. Nearly 100% of the GPU heat is transferred outside the case.

As for the MCW80's I had 3 sets of Zalman ramsinks on the VRM and RAM and it worked ok. Challenge is connecting block 1 to block 2. It's a pretty tight turn and adds some restriction to the loop but the pumps you are looking at should be fine.

With those temps leave the H70 alone. Adding the CPU will add more heat to the loop when you are already at good temps. Just my $.02. Save the money on the CPU block and upgrade the radiator.

 

[Zebo]

DDC means Laing DDC. Laing is manf who makes all the MCP3xx pumps and DDC is model. Laing also makes the MCP6XX and similar varieties.

Anyway why you not going for 2x140mm rad such as Black Ice GT Stealth 280? Doesnt that case already have one 140mm hole up top? What are you gonna do about gaps when you put a 2x120mm rad in it's place?

 

[dawp]

you could also go with the Danger Den monsoon res for the D5 series of pump

http://www.dangerden.com/store/pump-bay-reservoirs/

 

[ViviTheMage]

DDC means Laing DDC. Laing is manf who makes all the MCP3xx pumps and DDC is model. Laing also makes the MCP6XX and similar varieties.

Anyway why you not going for 2x140mm rad such as Black Ice GT Stealth 280? Doesnt that case already have one 140mm hole up top? What are you gonna do about gaps when you put a 2x120mm rad in it's place?

I am partially following what this guy did :

http://www.techreaction.net/2010/11/28/blog-corsair-graphite-series%E2%84%A2-600t-all-internal-dual-loop/

I don't want to cut, and he was able to throw in 2 rads stock.

I plan to sell the H70, for the record. I need the space for both rad's...and a CPU block is only 80 bucks~

I am still a bit confused with which reservoir I should get, with a MCP655, haha...the koolance or XSPC.

 

[littlezipp]

I am partially following what this guy did :

http://www.techreaction.net/2010/11/28/blog-corsair-graphite-series%E2%84%A2-600t-all-internal-dual-loop/

I don't want to cut, and he was able to throw in 2 rads stock.

I plan to sell the H70, for the record. I need the space for both rad's...and a CPU block is only 80 bucks~

I am still a bit confused with which reservoir I should get, with a MCP655, haha...the koolance or XSPC.

I went with this one for my build - http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic-Dual-5.25-Reservoir-for-Laing-D5-pr-4666.html
Eliminates the need to look for a place to mount it too.