My CM Stacker 830 Evo Water Cooled (first WC system)

[ThaJollyMan]

I recently decided that i wanted to put a WC system in my PC. Then istarted looking online and seeing some really cool Stacker 830 mods and decided if i am going to do this i am going to all out and not do it poorly. So i figured i would Paint the interior of the case, install a complete water cooling system consisting of 2 Rads and 3 WB's, and make an acrylic window to display it in all its glory.

So anyway...here is an earlier pic of how the case looked, before the paint job:

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1746.jpg


After paint Job:

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1938.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1939.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1940.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1942.jpg

Watercooling won't be done til next week when i get the parts...stupid thanksgiving

 

[Tullphan]

Looks nice so far!

 

[WoodButcher]

Looking forward to seeing it wet!

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Looks very nice -- I only wonder why so much attention to painting the interior chassis.

These Stacker 830's really give owners an opportunity to install fans and attend to airflow. I strive to get maximum airflow from a minimal balance of fans, even to overwhelm the exhaust with lots of intake CFMs. But I couldn't resist putting three 140mm fans in the side panel and two 120's in the lower case front. I even reversed a CM barrel-fan to enhance the exhaust, since there's only a single 120mm exhaust port.

Now that you've raised my attention to it, I think it's time to turn on my "other" system in the CM Stacker, grab the VISTA64 downloads, and play a racing game. I haven't messed with it for a week.

 

[ThaJollyMan]

I really do like the air cooling solution that the stacker 830 has to offer...it definitely keeps evertything pretty darn cool, but, when those GPU fans spin up it gets pretty loud and i still get up to about 70*c on the gpu's while playing some games...even with the fans at 100%. So i am doing the water cooling for temps but also for noise levels. Right now, because i dont have a fan controller, it sounds like a jet engine when i turn the computer on especially when the the gpu fans spin up. I figure getting rid of the gpu fans, cpu fan and getting rid of the side fan panel and putting in the glass window will lower the noise levels. So i will be going from 12 fans in the case to 6-7 fans, which should exceptionally decrease noise levels. I am still debating on wether or not to put a 120mm fan in the acrylic window, just over the gpu's for the ramsink cooling factor. There will be a 120.2 rad int he front with 2x 120mm fans and 120.1 Rad in the rear exhaust with 1x 120mm fan. 1 fan in teh top and 2 fans in the bottom. Any suggestions on air flow for the rads or all the fans in general?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I bought two BFG 9600 GT's. I'd flirted over two generations with runner-up to flagship graphics models. This was my first SLI build, and of course I discovered "nothing to it."

I could've waited for an nVidia 260.

I wouldn't stick with stock air-cooling on a top-end (or second-from-top) graphics card.

I think you (ThaJollyMan) were leaning toward water-cooling. If not, there are some very good after-market coolers that should fit the 9800's. From both Zalman (VF1000) and ThermalRight (and slimmer than the TR HR-03-Plus.)

I picked my 9600's because they come stock with Zerotherm heatpipe "flowers." I replaced the stock thermal paste with IC Diamond. They're running a lot cooler than yours, but for two reasons -- one being that they're mid-range performers for that line of GPUs.

AH!! YOU HAVE A 780i BOARD!! YOU DON'T HAVE A FAN CONTROLLER?

THIS IS FIRSTHAND ADVICE (and sorry about the caps, but I'm "animated.")

Silverstone Commander

Then go to nVidia and hunt down the latest "nVidia Tools" -- "monitor" and "Performance."

Be gentle with this. You probably only want it to mess with thermal control of fans, so it doesn't interfere with BIOS-level over-clocking. ONce you've got it set up to load only the profiles affecting the Commander (and motherboard fan-plugs/sensors), you're gonna love it. It will also thermally control your water-cooling rig.

 

[JPB]

Stupid Thanksgiving ???? WTF

Me loves me yams :shocked:

Awesome looking so far. Great job :thumbsup:

 

[ThaJollyMan]

Thanks for the comments!

JPB...i say stupid thanksgiving only because i have to work that day...otherwise i love thanksgiving...I loves me cranberry's and turkey!

BonzaiDuck...that fan controller looks sweet...i was looking at the Zalman mfc1 and i never really saw that Silverstone commander...but if i am going to order one then you have just made up my mind on which one to get, cause that one looks SCHWEEET!
I am assuming that that fan controller can use 4 pin molex connectors to control the fans instead of having to buy 4 to 3 pin adapters? That controller looks like it would be perfect for my case...no knobs or lights on the front...all internal...awesome! I will have to wait a bit before buying that though, seeing as how i just dropped over $400 on the water cooling components. BonzaiDuck...do you have this controller? As for the stock cooling on the GPU's...i did order 2 universal GPU blocks from Koolance.com. Here are the components i ordered:

CPU Block: http://www.koolance.com/water-...nfo.php?product_id=664

GPU Block x2: http://www.koolance.com/water-...nfo.php?product_id=566
(not a big fan of the aluminum tops...but we'll see how they perform)

Resorvoir: http://www.koolance.com/water-...nfo.php?product_id=652

Pump: http://dangerden.com/store/pro...uctid=356&cat=4&page=1

120.1 Rad: http://dangerden.com/store/pro...ductid=1&cat=85&page=1

120.2 Rad: http://dangerden.com/store/pro...ductid=2&cat=85&page=1

Tubing: http://dangerden.com/store/pro...ctid=372&cat=33&page=1
(i ordered this tubing because it is supposed to be the most fexible on the market)

Liquid: http://dangerden.com/store/pro...ctid=317&cat=63&page=1

the water flow setup i had in mind is going to be:

pump->cpu->120.1 rad->gpu1->gpu2->120.2 rad->resorvoir->pump

I am thinking later on if i want to add chipset cooling i can just put the NB and SB blocks between the cpu and 120.1 rad. So, it would be cpu->NB->SB->120.1 rad and so on. Youg uys think the pump i listed would be strong enough to handle all that in teh future?

I am using Thermaltake thunderblade fans that do a maximum of 75 CFM. Any ideas on the air flow for the fans? As i said before i will have 2 fans on teh bottom of the case and one on the top. One fan on the 120.1 rad which will be placed on the rear exhaust port of the case and the 120.2 rad in the front. Just wanted to get some ideas for the push or pull(intake/exhaust) of the fans in the case. This is what i was thinking:

120.2 rad: intake

120.1 rad: exhaust

2x bottom case fans: exhaust

1x top case fan: intake

If i decide to put a fan in the window i was thinking of setting it up as intake for cool air on the gpu ramsinks. Any other ideas are much appreciated!
Just read this reviewon the Silverstone commander...

http://www.techpowerup.com/rev.../Commander_ESA_Edition

Apparently i will need to purchase 4 to 3 pin adapters

 

[WoodButcher]

Do Not! mix metals, ie- no aluminum, also avoid Koolance WC parts.
that is all..............

 

[ThaJollyMan]

Why avoid koolance? Have you actually used koolance parts? From the reviews i have read thay make pretty decent parts. I understand that Koolance has improved over the years. What does mixing metals do? And by mixing metals what do you mean? I have already ordered the koolance blocks....

 

[WoodButcher]

Specifically copper and aluminum. The combination in a loop cause corrosion and leaks. Koolance uses bottled coolant w/ additives that help prevent prevent this but why bother when there are so many better alternatives. Read Aigomorla's stick in this section, he has exlained all this very well.
http://forums.anandtech.com/me...=2005078&enterthread=y

 

[ThaJollyMan]

The cpu block has a brass top that is nickel plated...and the gpu block has an aluminum top which is also nickel plated. If they are both nickel plated and i am using anti-corrosive liquid, it shouldnt make a differnece right? i guess what doesnt make much sense to me is that most water blocks use a copper bottom and some other metal for the top. This would be considered mixing metals right? Also, Woodbutcher, why stay away from koolance? Did you say that because someone else said they had problems with koolance or just something you heard?

 

[CurseTheSky]

I believe people stay away from Koolance because they're known for mixing aluminum and copper in their OWN kits, and they use a special anti-corrosive additive in their liquids to prevent problems. Don't quote me on that - that's just what I've heard.

As far as how well they perform, I have no idea.

 

[WoodButcher]

Performance has gotten better but just recently Aigo had a problem with a fitting from Koolance. Koolance makes some nice fittings that are popular with many builders, comp fittings, swivels and vid card connectors. Aigo had a splitter with end cap in his system and the cap corroded, it looked like rust to me but I only saw a photo. This corrosion happened in the course of a couple of months.
I choose my parts, copper brass or silver. Many are chromed like the barbs and I flare the inside edges of all my components to reduce turbulence in the loop. I machine through the chrome I want to see brass, not some cheap alternative that will screw up my loops.

 

[ThaJollyMan]

Point well taken...not sure if rust is considered corrosion...i think it is. Anyway, the parts have a;ready been ordered, cant do much about it now. I hope i dont have any problems with the parts that i chose.

The koolance fittings do look very nice, and i ordered koolance fittings for all of my connections including the Rads. Like i said, i hope dont have any problems with anything.

Any suggestions on air flow setup? anyone?

 

[WoodButcher]

Rads go where they fit best, airflow almost never changes,. front, side and bottom in, back and top out.
Good luck with the parts and be sure to use Koolance coolant, this way you can always go back to them if any problems arise.

edit- provided you use their coolant you should be ok, watch your temps are consistent over time and if they jump suddenly corrosion clogs in a block will be the likely culprit. Worst case scenario is a leak but those you find real easy. Don't sweat it, I've flooded my rigs more than once and haven't lost any hardware yet! (knocks on wood) Aigo runs strait distilled water hence the rapid corrosion.

 

[ThaJollyMan]

Thanks for the tip woody...unfortunatley i ordered feser liquid. It supposedly prevents corrosion with copper brass nickel and aluminum. I dont think i should have too many problems. I bought all nickel plated compression fittings,so i am not too worried about leaks either. But, then again this is my first WC build...what do i know? i hope i dont flood my rig. the reason why i wanted to do exhaust for the bottom fans was to exhaust the heat from the ramsinks on the GPU's and prevent dust from being sucked into the comp. The top fan has a dust filter on it. I think i have decided that i shouldnt need a fan on the window. I figure pulling the air in through the top fan would provide some fresh cool air for the exhaust fan on the 120.1 rad. I will have to try a few different ways. Thanks again for the tips woody. I will update when i get the parts sometime next week and hopefully provide some excellent pics witht the new canon rebel XSi my wife and i just ordered! woohoo!

question....what would be the best place to put my drain valve??

http://www.koolance.com/water-...nfo.php?product_id=264

Between the last VGA block and the 120.2 rad? or between the 120.2 rad and the resorvior? If i put it between the 120.2 rad and the RES it will be difficult to get to.

 

[WoodButcher]

As low in the loop as convenient . I actually find I like having a T-line as a drain so I can fill and drain in two places and easier bleeding.
My last build.

 

[ThaJollyMan]

holy sweetness...nice rig man. Whjat did you find was the best way to cut the window? What kind of plastic did you use, acrylic? Sweet RES too. Too many tubes IMO but very nice work! I dont plan on going that far with my system obviously, i am not skilled enough to start hacking away at my case and building stuff from scratch. Did mounting the 120.1 rad make running your tubing a little easier(keeping it from kinking)? Also, i was looking at the pump i ordered...the compressions fitting that come with are 3/8 ID and 5/8 OD...my tubing is 3/8 & 1/2. Is there a way to make the tube fit inside these fittings(wrapping the tubing with tape at the base) or should i just use tie wrap to secure the tube to the barb? One other question...would it be good for me to use teflon tape for the threads on the nozzles or do i risk getting a piece of the tape in the liquid and messing up the system?

Again...sweet rig man!

 

[WoodButcher]

Thanks, I think I used my chop saw to do that window, I may have used a grinder, I don't recall. Cutting sheet metal with my slide miter can be tricky if not down right dangerous but I've been in the trades for many moons and still have all ten digits. Yes the window is lexan.
IIRC the Koolance barbs come w/ o-rings, teflon tape or pipe dope is not needed if they seat right. I do use pipe dope paste anyway, very little applied to male threads, with a finger tip, no excess allowed inside. Wipe the outside after installation. I wouldn't play games with the comp fittings, get the right size or use a reducer in the line. All this crap will make more sense to you once it is in hand, many parts and tubings can be had at the local hardware or plumbing supply. Take your time and don't skip or skimp. You'll be pleased with the outcome.

 

[ThaJollyMan]

Update:

Got all my WC components today...started to put things together in order to leak test...unfortunately the tubing had a larger OD than i expected...so i need to order different tubing. does this make sense to anyone?
The tubing diameters dont make sense to me in this picture. It says that the ID is 3/8 and the wall thickness is 1/8, adding these together should give your OD correct? which would be 1/2 inch. in the picture is lists the OD as being 5/8 inch. Correct me if i am wrong but i think DD needs to fix this. Like i said correct me if i am wrong...i would like to be inforemd as i am still a noob to this WC stuff

http://www.dangerden.com/store...carrib-tubing-size.jpg

Anyway here are some pics of the parts awaiting proper tubing:

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1964.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1965.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1967.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ly_bucket/IMG_1968.jpg

I am a tard...i looked at that diagram again and i didnt add both sides of the wall together to get the total diameter...oh well..like i said i am a noob

 

[WoodButcher]

Originally posted by: ThaJollyMan
I am a tard...i looked at that diagram again and i didnt add both sides of the wall together to get the total diameter...oh well..like i said i am a noob

Hey! don't put down those that are handicapped,,, they're not that dumb!!!
LOL, I almost called my mother, she always had a good bunch of one-liners for times like this.
Yep, talking to yourself and then putting it print is a sure sign,
water on the brain,,,,,, Talking to yourself is OK, even answering back, I have some great conversations, it's the arguments that suck, I always loose!
Have you located the radiators and res in the case yet? Gotta love getting toys in the post.

 

[ThaJollyMan]

It seems as though when i started this WC install thats all i have been doing is talking to myself..."hmmm...maybe i should put it here...yeah that would be sweet...no wait...that wont work...maybe i should put it here!" I always lose the arguments too I have been feeling kinda crazy over the past few weeks cause i have been talking to myself sooo much. And man was i pissed when that damn tubing didnt fit in the compression nozzles...and i say "that damn tubing" because its the tubings fault that its too big! haha!

Yes i think have the spots picked out for the rads. Originally i planed on mouting the 120.2 rad in the front on the drive bay fan mounts but that proved to be more difficult than expected. The drive bay fan mounts when put together with fans add about 1/8th inch betweem the fans which made the wholes on teh rad not line up with the fans, so i think i am going to mount the 120.2 rad in teh bottom of the case(seeing as how there is already a precut hole). Also, i was planning on mounting the 120.1 rad in the back exhaust fan mount, Looking at it a second time i think i might mount the 120.1 rad in the top. i am trying to get the best airflow possible along with good "tubing management". Haha, now that i look at it again it might be better to have the 120.1 rad in theback, this way i can have 2x 120mm fans in the front pulling in cool air and a 120mm fan in the top pulling in cool air. This way the cool air is moving from the front and top and going out the bottom and back. Plus, i wont be pulling air in through the rad and making it warm then exhausting that warm air into the case and onto to all the other components. So it is decided...120.2 int eh bottom and 120.1 in the back. Quick question woody (since you seem to be the only one responding to my post), what would the best orientation for the fans on the rads be? Pulling air through the rad or pushing air through the rad?

 

[WoodButcher]

Fans push or pull, IMO the answer is different with each fan and the location, bottom rads I've found to be better as intakes, with these I prefer the fan inside (suck) for less noise. Most fans blowing into the rad will produce better temps but there are so many variables it is best to try both if you have the option. Leave your tubes long at first build to allow a little flexibility and find what works best for you. Aigo surprised me with this and of course I tried both. He had a stacker w/ an opty IIRC configured this way, the air from the rad is not heated enough to affect the case temp. My last build has this w/ the back and top rads as exhaust. With a bottom rad you may need to lift the case a bit, taller feet or a lift like I built. An inch free air is enough but more if better. My bottom red is actually under the case.

 

[ThaJollyMan]

Well, i am going to be mounting the bottom rad underneath the case and it has wheels that i can attach to raise the case up about 1.5 inches giving the Rad about 1 inch clearance. I will try the fans as exhaust(push) and intake(pull) and see which gives better temps. As for the 120.1 rad i think i am oging to be putting in the top...changed my mind again. It doesnt seem like it is going to fit very well in the back without cutting some metal off the case. I am going to setup the top rad as intake(pushing air through the rad into case). My current idle temps using everest 4.6 for the cpu are 33,34,35,35 on air of course, so i figure the air coming off the top rad into the case wont be warm enough to affect case temps. Air flow diagram:

http://i152.photobucket.com/al...ket/AirFlowdiagram.jpg

I think this should work out pretty well. I am liking it so far...still waiting on stupid tubing

What do you think?