How is this done in T-bar tile?
IMG_1000.jpg
IMG_1001.jpg
The old holes that were created from simple screwing are no longer usable.
IMG_1000.jpg
IMG_1001.jpg
The old holes that were created from simple screwing are no longer usable.
Good idea, thanks. If I install the tabs above the tile I might even be able to get away with not removing the angles every time I want to remove the tile.Originally posted by: Nik
Buy 2 small sheet-like strips of aluminum, maybe 1" wide and 3" long.
Bend at 90 degrees.
Screw one side into the duct work so that you'll have small "wings" (HAHA TAMPON JOKE) on either side of the duct work to which you can screw the vent into.
If your mounting holes are gone, make new ones![]()
noOriginally posted by: waffleironhead
epoxy
Don't think those would work in this application...Originally posted by: OUCaptain
You could cut the side off of a large washer to get it close enough to the duct or use one of these.
Those will work for your application however you have to mount the spring wingback behind the register mounting plate then push them through the enlarge holes in the ceiling tile.Originally posted by: Howard
noOriginally posted by: waffleironhead
epoxy
Don't think those would work in this application...Originally posted by: OUCaptain
You could cut the side off of a large washer to get it close enough to the duct or use one of these.
I might go with the last method you mentioned, actually. It'll be a lot easier to self-tap into the wood than it would be to align all the holes for the angles.Originally posted by: iGas
Normally round registers/vents are use in the ceiling and they are framed/hung by the t-bars, or friction fit to 4" or greater round ducts with 3 screws to the sides.
Rectangular or square registers/louvers tend to be use for floor or wall that is friction fit (may be screw down if required).
As said above you can use sheet metals bent into t-shapes to mount your register.
Or, push the duct work up and slide 2 pieces of wood up for backing, and use 4 drywall screws to hold the backing in place, then put the duct work back where it belong and mount the register via 2 screws through the ceiling tile to the wood backing.
The hole on one side is totally messed up, and there isn't enough play that I can make another hole with enough meat around it. Compression fittings are a whole 'nother beast, as iGas can probably tell you.Originally posted by: spidey07
compression fittings or molly bolts? Basically treat it like drywall.
Aren't toggle bolts one-use only?Originally posted by: iGas
Those will work for your application however you have to mount the spring wingback behind the register mounting plate then push them through the enlarge holes in the ceiling tile.Originally posted by: Howard
noOriginally posted by: waffleironhead
epoxy
Don't think those would work in this application...Originally posted by: OUCaptain
You could cut the side off of a large washer to get it close enough to the duct or use one of these.
<--- plumbing/gas/HVAC
Yes, However the holes in the register aren't large enough to pass the toggle through, and you don't want a large hole/washer to be seen from the finish side of the register.Originally posted by: Howard
The hole on one side is totally messed up, and there isn't enough play that I can make another hole with enough meat around it.Originally posted by: spidey07
compression fittings or molly bolts? Basically treat it like drywall.
Aren't toggle bolts one-use only?Originally posted by: iGas
Those will work for your application however you have to mount the spring wingback behind the register mounting plate then push them through the enlarge holes in the ceiling tile.Originally posted by: Howard
noOriginally posted by: waffleironhead
epoxy
Don't think those would work in this application...Originally posted by: OUCaptain
You could cut the side off of a large washer to get it close enough to the duct or use one of these.
<--- plumbing/gas/HVAC
Right, I get it now. If there was a little more space I'd consider this option, but again the hole is totally messed up. It's not like I couldn't find the toggle after removing the bolt anyway...Originally posted by: iGas
Yes, However the holes in the register aren't large enough to pass the toggle through, and you don't want a large hole/washer to be seen from the finish side of the register.Originally posted by: Howard
The hole on one side is totally messed up, and there isn't enough play that I can make another hole with enough meat around it.Originally posted by: spidey07
compression fittings or molly bolts? Basically treat it like drywall.
Aren't toggle bolts one-use only?Originally posted by: iGas
Those will work for your application however you have to mount the spring wingback behind the register mounting plate then push them through the enlarge holes in the ceiling tile.Originally posted by: Howard
noOriginally posted by: waffleironhead
epoxy
Don't think those would work in this application...Originally posted by: OUCaptain
You could cut the side off of a large washer to get it close enough to the duct or use one of these.
<--- plumbing/gas/HVAC
Originally posted by: waffleironhead
epoxy
Originally posted by: Nik
Buy 2 small sheet-like strips of aluminum, maybe 1" wide and 3" long.
Bend at 90 degrees.
Screw one side into the duct work so that you'll have small "wings" (HAHA TAMPON JOKE) on either side of the duct work to which you can screw the vent into.
If your mounting holes are gone, make new ones![]()