tell us what you really think.
I build a ladder system to level the boxes on site. That way I can fix any level problems without shimming. I level the ladder and toekick assembly and drop the boxes onto that.
I was just skimming through this thread. I'd think that tile over vinyl is a very poor idea. I cannot see how the vinyl is sturdy enough to prevent flexing when the tile was walked on. When I did an internship as a ceramic engineer, we had an entire mall full of our tiles failing - and that was simply from an adhesive that wasn't absolutely rock solid - it allowed a tiny bit of flexing, and with traffic, over time, a lot of tiles were cracking.
Was just reskimming myself, I'd never bind a tile floor to Linoleum personally.
Throw in Roxul ComfortBoard IS. Insect- and moisture-resistant rigid insulation, recommended for exterior use. See PERSIST and REMOTE home construction.
I wonder if there is such a system for ranges. I don't like having my eggs slide down the pan. I know that the two front feet are easily adjusted to eliminate rocking, but the rear feet cannot be adjusted perfectly in one shot. Getting to perfect level can't always be done with just the front two feet.EZ-Level cabinet leveling system:
http://www.ez-level.com/
The idea is to "laser level your entire kitchen in minutes" using this built-in tool instead of shims or plinth feet (convenience item, albeit pricey at $15 a pop). It's a permanent leveling system that can be adjusted at any time & is granite-friendly (protects it from cracking). It comes in a set with a front & rear leveler & a short & long adjusting rod to adjust each respectively. Some more background by the owner here:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/other...evel-before-for-cabinets/msg210414/#msg210414
I like the concept because years down the road, you can easily adjust your cabinets to be level as things warp or have thermal expansion or water damage or whatever. Having that issue right now in my kitchen actually, and we're prepping to do a renovation due to water damage from ice dams (damaged both cabinets & flooring), so I may pick these up if the insurance budget allows me to go for some nice cabinets from Cliq Studios:
http://www.cliqstudios.com/
Cliq cabinets + EZ-Level feet seems like a super easy way to go the DIY route for kitchen cabinet installation.
Adjustable door hinge:
http://www.adjustabledoorhinge.com/
Having some door-sticking problems due to thermal expansion. Going to try this on one really bad door to see how it fares.
I wonder if there is such a system for ranges. I don't like having my eggs slide down the pan. I know that the two front feet are easily adjusted to eliminate rocking, but the rear feet cannot be adjusted perfectly in one shot. Getting to perfect level can't always be done with just the front two feet.
Or just build a low-profile system with threaded rod and sliding wedges. Or 90 degree gearboxes. Or just slide in some spare scissor jacks from a junkyard.I wonder if the EZ-Level system could be adapted to a range:
http://forums.anandtech.com/showpost.php?p=37318174&postcount=46
It has a short stick for the front feet & a long stick for the rear feet, so you can adjust at any time pretty easily. I'm actually having the same problem...fortunately my stove pulls out, but it's still a pain in the rear to actually do it
AZEK: PVC trim etc. Neat stuff to work with. Billed as a synthetic wood alternative.
Keeping To Schedule
The first push-to-connect rough-in plumbing solution for new construction. No special tools, soldering, glue or crimping to plumb an entire home, optimizing install time and efficiency.
Mitigating Risk
The system’s ease of installation reduces the risk of install errors and potential leaks. Just push-to-connect and check the green visual indicator to ensure a proper, leak-free connection.
A Total System, From Meter To Fixture
One system from one manufacturer, meter to fixture when installed with SharkBite PEX pipe and valves. Designed for getting the job done!
Thanks for posting updates to this thread. I'll probably never use any of the products but I find some them interesting to read about.
As Buzz Jenks, Sludgehammer’s CEO in Petoskey explains, the system is very simple. It’s basically an air pump that pumps air through a cylinder that is inserted into a septic tank along with a stick that has small bags of bacteria attached to it. The bacteria consume septic waste and convert it to nitrogen. The bacteria reproduce, a portion of the bacteria cling to the surface of the cylinder and the remainder drifting into the septic tank and out into the drain field. The bacteria in the drain field continue consuming waste.
Great idea. It's a pity I'll never be able to use them.SharkBite has a new system called EvoPEX:
http://www.sharkbite.com/evopex/
Pretty neat, it's a push-to-fit system that turns green when it locks in:
How about adding Zip board, sheathing systems: http://www.huberwood.com/zipsystem/home-zip-system Basically OSB with a coating, so it eliminates the need for Tyvek. In my research it is a bit cheaper than OSB + Tyvek.
Advantech Decking: http://www.huberwood.com/advantech/home-advantech Makes for great subfloors, supposedly stiffer than standard OSB or Plywood.
Both Zip and Advantech have become defacto standards around here.
Also Hardie siding: http://www.jameshardie.com/
And any form of SolarBoard OSB for roof decking (radiative barrier glued to inside of of the sheet), there are a few different brands. When I've had it quoted, Solarboard runs about $0.10 more per sheet, in quantity.
Glad this came up again, haven't read it before. I'll have to go through the thread and see what all has been mentioned.