Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil 5qt jug - $18.88 at Wal-Mart

[Jerry]

I don't quite get this. Do you mean that you KEEP topping off and change only the filter every 3K ?
In other words that you don't ever completely drain and repace the Mobil 1, but just keep topping it off and change the filter after each 3,000 miles ?

Wow, if so, that would be a tremendous convenience, and a great idea I had never heard of or thought of.

 

[Granorense]

There is some important information on AMS oil's web site which is worth reading I think. For educational purposes I think.

Text

 

[tracerbullet]

Heh, still sounds inconvenient to me. Swapping the filter is the worst part for me, where draining the pan is easy.

BTW this isn't "full synthetic" like most are probably thinking. The old Mobil1 up to a few years ago was that way, with the "trisyn" oil everything man made. Then Castrol went to court over the definition of it, and it was changed to mean anything that was altered - that is dinosaur oil could be part of the base stock. Mobil1 does it now too and it got renamed to Supersyn. Only Mobil1's 0W40 oil is the "old formula" that was in fact all man-made, and is what everybody refers to when they talk about tests that were run. I'm not saying the new Supersyn is bad oil or anything, but it's not what it used to be (well, all viscosities except 0W40, which they don't carry in 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart). BTW it's the 0W40, and only hat, that is the factory fill at Porsche and some of the other manufacturers, and it's for that reason - that it's the "old stuff" that was more expensive to make.

 

[gigajoule]

Originally posted by: snowairg

Call me stupid then, but there's no way I'm letting my car go 20k+ miles w/o an oil change. Please provide some links to this info; I'd like to read it.

Here's one of many links. This particular one covers many aspects of synthetic oil........ Synthetic

I would suggest you need to do a little additional research yourself, if you want to find out more information.

Some side notes to this discussion..... significant engine wear occurs during starts when oil is being pumped to engine components. Synthetic has the ability to "stick" to metal parts better and has a high "creep factor". This helps minimize wear during starts. Also synthetic oil doesn't break down as fast as traditional petroleum based oils, plus reduces wear, which means contamination due to dissolved metals is minimized. This translates to minimal viscosity shifts, i.e. the oil thickening over time like traditional based petoleum oils. The end result for those that live in cold climates, is the car starts easier, and full lubrication occurs sooner after the vehicle starts.

There are significant differences in oil filters which should be noted too. The oil is only as good as its filter. The earlier link goes into some detail on this.

My practical experience on this is with fleet gasoline, natural gas, & propane vehicles. Oil tests every 5,000 miles showed it was common to exceed 20,000 miles for a gasoline engine in a year, and for the propane and natural gas counterparts, because the combustion process is much cleaner, oil changes could reach 40,000+ miles. (This doesn't include the necessary filter changes and make up oil that was required.)

The group I associate with uses 2 philosophies for oil changes. The first is an oil change every 15,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first, utilizing a full depth filter, (such as Mobile 1 filters). The second system involves an oil change every 40,000 miles with a traditional filter change and top off every 5,000 miles.

I currently have a GMC Safari, (4.3L V6), and put about 25,000 miles on a year using the 15,000 mile change. The engine has never had any major mechanical work other than plugs, wires, cap, rotor and the current odomeeter reading is approaching 200k with insignificant oil consumption, (maybe a half quart in 15,000 miles), and it still gets 20-21 MPG on the highway. I also use this same vehicle for towing with loads ranging from 1500 to 3500 pounds. (The automatic transmission has never been serviced except oil & filter changes utilizes Mobile 1 ATF and a B&M finned aluminum oil pan was installed around 15K miles.)

There's nothing wrong with oil changes that occur sooner, your simply not taking full advantage of the oils capability.

 

[Jerry]

I have read the information at the several links sites. The sensibility of going with synthetics is quite clear. One last question is regarding those, such as myself, who operate at low mileage rates. in other words, who do not drive many miles per year.

That factor is the potentiality of TIME being relevant to the longer mileage intervals.

If one only puts 3k miles a year on one?s car, would it be wiser to use the synthetic, just top it off, and only change the filter, say, every 6 months, and let it go for 5 years ? before a pan changing of the oil ?

Or use cheaper dino oils and do a full change and filter every 6 months regardless of the mileage ?

For me the changing of the filter is very easy, but the disposing of the pan drained oil is inconvenient.

I look forward to responses.

 

[kilmanjaro]

Originally posted by: tracerbullet
Heh, still sounds inconvenient to me. Swapping the filter is the worst part for me, where draining the pan is easy.

BTW this isn't "full synthetic" like most are probably thinking. The old Mobil1 up to a few years ago was that way, with the "trisyn" oil everything man made. Then Castrol went to court over the definition of it, and it was changed to mean anything that was altered - that is dinosaur oil could be part of the base stock. Mobil1 does it now too and it got renamed to Supersyn. Only Mobil1's 0W40 oil is the "old formula" that was in fact all man-made, and is what everybody refers to when they talk about tests that were run. I'm not saying the new Supersyn is bad oil or anything, but it's not what it used to be (well, all viscosities except 0W40, which they don't carry in 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart). BTW it's the 0W40, and only hat, that is the factory fill at Porsche and some of the other manufacturers, and it's for that reason - that it's the "old stuff" that was more expensive to make.

Actually, according to Mobil 1 - all weights of their supersyn formula are fully synthetic. I'm not sure where you got your info, but Mobil 1 has always had their synthetic oils FULLY synthetic. Although you are correct about Castrol, they are now required to list it as a blend, not fully synthetic.

But, as listed on their FAQ page - all Supersyn weights ARE fully synthetic, not blends. Click here for direct link.

 

[XCLAN]

3 years ago they had 5w30 castrol Syntec 5 quart jugs on clearance for 9.00 at the end of an isle at my walmart. I bought like 20 of em...lol still have some in my garage.

 

[Tiembo]

Originally posted by: XCLAN
3 years ago they had 5w30 castrol Syntec 5 quart jugs on clearance for 9.00 at the end of an isle at my walmart. I bought like 20 of em...lol still have some in my garage.

What's the shelf life of motor oil?

 

[Purgatory-Z]

Originally posted by: Tullphan
If one switches brands of motor oil after using a particular brand for awhile, should one flush out their engine somehow or what?
I've heard it isn't good on a car to switch brands of oil. True?

Oil is oil is oil. You will not see any harmful effects by taking different brands of oil and mixing them together. As long as you keep your weights right, you can mix synthetic with dino just fine. I don't know why you would, however, as you'd be in effect making a blend, which doesn't have the advantages of a pure synthetic...

Too many people get spooked on the oil issue. I'd suggest reading a reliable source for any information regarding oil changes/intervals/etc. However, if you want my 2 bits of advice, I'd suggest changing the filter often. It's probably the single most important maintenance part in your engine. =)


Purg

 

[topnotcher]

Bravo!

Originally posted by: Purgatory-Z

Originally posted by: Tullphan
If one switches brands of motor oil after using a particular brand for awhile, should one flush out their engine somehow or what?
I've heard it isn't good on a car to switch brands of oil. True?

Oil is oil is oil. You will not see any harmful effects by taking different brands of oil and mixing them together. As long as you keep your weights right, you can mix synthetic with dino just fine. I don't know why you would, however, as you'd be in effect making a blend, which doesn't have the advantages of a pure synthetic...

Too many people get spooked on the oil issue. I'd suggest reading a reliable source for any information regarding oil changes/intervals/etc. However, if you want my 2 bits of advice, I'd suggest changing the filter often. It's probably the single most important maintenance part in your engine. =)


Purg

 

[DietDrThunder]

I need some general information about Synthetics. I bought a new vehicle and want to know when I can start using synthetic oil? What makes it better than standard oil? Any special filters needed? Where do I find good info about this oil? What is the best brand to buy? etc. etc.

 

[topnotcher]

Some say to wait 3000 miles before changing the oil to synthetic. I also just purchased a new car and I immediately changed to synthetic, the reason they (who ever they are) is because the values and rings have not seated. I believe that is hogwash. Corvettes do not come standard with Mobil 1 for no reason at all.

I hear Mobil 1 filters are the best, however I change mine so frequently I generally use the cheapest I can find.

In terms of synthetic oils, again I hear Mobil 1 is the best. There was an independent study that seems like a nice study. I would also look at Mobil 1 website. However I use Wal-Mart brand full synthetic oil, word is that it is made by Quaker State...linky

Originally posted by: Cepak
I need some general information about Synthetics. I bought a new vehicle and want to know when I can start using synthetic oil? What makes it better than standard oil? Any special filters needed? Where do I find good info about this oil? What is the best brand to buy? etc. etc.

 

[sat4fun]

This thread is funny. Marketing has gotten to you all. The only oil releated failure is lack of oil. To think that your mid milage is running fine since you run synthetic oil is pure naivety. Synthetics MAY make increase the life of your engine, but it will not increase reliability now.

 

[topnotcher]

My goal with any car is to keep the engine running as smoothly for as long as possible 200+K. If synthetics can keep my engine "tight" longer I am all for it.

Now if someone can create a corosive proof car we are all set, Saturn appears on the correct track.

Originally posted by: sat4fun
This thread is funny. Marketing has gotten to you all. The only oil releated failure is lack of oil. To think that your mid milage is running fine since you run synthetic oil is pure naivety. Synthetics MAY make increase the life of your engine, but it will not increase reliability now.

 

[Jerry]

Any responses to my posting above ?
Thanks

 

[topnotcher]

My hunch is there is no issue, milage is the factor. Oil by its nature breaks down with heat and has a very long shelf life. I have no documented proof.

Originally posted by: Jerry
Any responses to my posting above ?
Thanks

 

[vinnyracer]

thanks for the info.

 

[tracerbullet]

Originally posted by: kilmanjaroActually, according to Mobil 1 - all weights of their supersyn formula are fully synthetic. I'm not sure where you got your info, but Mobil 1 has always had their synthetic oils FULLY synthetic. Although you are correct about Castrol, they are now required to list it as a blend, not fully synthetic.

But, as listed on their FAQ page - all Supersyn weights ARE fully synthetic, not blends. Click here for direct link.

You didn't understand what I said.

Castrol took the definition of synthetic to court, claiming that since they "did things" to dino oil, that made it synthetic. They won. Now their oil is considered fully synthetic, and no longer just a blend. This changed the rules,and Mobil skimped a little bit afterwards - I presume to be able to match prices, and possibly because it's just as good for 99% of the population anyways.

However, Mobil 1 has always had full synthetic, true - but at what definition? In the past, it was 100% polyalphaolefins, 3 of them actually (hence "tri-syn"), and was completely man made. Now it "includes" them, as your link even shows, meaning it's not 100% like before.

Only the 0W40 is the old formula. Again, yes all of them are "synthetic", but the 0W40 is fully 100% man made oil, the others are a mix of man-made and man-engineered. This is why only 0W40 is the factory fill, and only 0W40 is approved by Mercedes. Apparently they don't like the new stuff.

Using an outside-the-US Mobil web page, check http://www.mobil.com.au/index.asp , at the top click on Mobil, then ?Products and Services?, then ?Lubricants and Specialties?, then ?Product Data Sheets?, then ?Automotive?, then the arrow next to ?global?, and finally the arrow next to ?passenger car engine oils?. Notice how there?s entries for ?Mobil1? and ?Mobil1 0W40? specifically. The general Mobil1 says it is ?formulated from wax free synthesized hydrocarbons?, where the 0W40 information shows ?formulated from three unique patented synthetic base fluids?.

I'm not saying the new stuff is bad, just saying it's not the same as before. And it's not what many people (myself included) consider to be "synthetic".

 

[Soybomb]

Originally posted by: sat4fun
This thread is funny. Marketing has gotten to you all. The only oil releated failure is lack of oil. To think that your mid milage is running fine since you run synthetic oil is pure naivety. Synthetics MAY make increase the life of your engine, but it will not increase reliability now.

I think most people use synthetics for increased longevity...... The only oil related failure may be lack of oil, but to say that a lubricant that lasts longer before breaking down may not prevent problems in the future in the future is quite naive too. Personally I run synth because I don't want dino juice coking in my turbo lines.


Perhaps the other mobil ones aren't the same as the 0w40 but I certainly interpret "formulated from wax free synthesized hydrocarbons" as synthetic. You should write mobil about what you say and see what their response is.

 

[Wildcats]

sat4fun has it right. We are all being duped. I think it was Consumer Reports that did some in-depth oil testing a while ago. They found no difference in ANY of the oils (synthetic or not). They recommended that we buy Sears oil because it was the cheapest and worked just as well as the others in their "torture" tests.

The also tested oil filters. FRAM came out on top.

That said, I'm sucker enough to buy full synthetic, but I buy the Walmart brand. I buy it only in case I don't remember to change it at 3000 miles or so. I hit 5000 miles between changes once...... I'm essentially throwing my money down the drain, polluting the environment by not using the oil as long as I should, and supporting GW Bush and the oil industry!

I also take a multi-vitamin every morning. ...another waste of money!

Cheers!

 

[Tiembo]

Originally posted by: Wildcats
The also tested oil filters. FRAM came out on top.

Must've been awhile back. FRAM's quality went from superior to barely acceptable, as numerous sources that have dissected and compared recent oil filters show that FRAM's filting ability isn't that great. Mobil 1 is one of the best, but also expensive.

 

[ConnCarl]

Mobil 1 Tri-Syn oils are the only PAO Group IV oils that you will find at Wal-Mart. In my experience, that is how most enthusiasts define a "true" synthetic motor oil.

Most other motor oils marketed as "100% synthetic" are formulated using hydrocracked Group II or III base stocks, which, although they offer performance very close to synthetics, are still petro-based and much cheaper to produce than Group IV synthetics.

Mobil charges you a premium for Mobil 1, but at least, it is the real thing, a true synthetic lubricant by any scientific definition. The other mass-marketed "synthetics" are much cheaper to produce and are pumped out of the ground, just like that 89¢ per quart stuff you get at Sears or Pep Boys.

Any oil that is pumped out of the ground, no matter what you do to it, doesn't meet my definition of "synthetic". And they certainly don't justify the same cost as a PAO Group IV oil like M1.

FWIW...

 

[salfter]

Originally posted by: snowairg
Yup that's where I get mine. I like the seperate containers better, too, because it's much easier to measure out the number of quarts.

Nearly everything takes 5 quarts...that's why they sell 5-quart jugs. The only car I've ever had that took a different amount was an '80 Chevette that took 4 quarts...maybe current-model cars with similarly puny engines (the Chevette had a 1.6L 4-banger) take 4 quarts, but real cars and trucks will most likely take 5.

 

[Jerry]

Thanks topnotcher,
Man, how convenient would that be - GREAT.
I would Just keep topping off the fully synthetic and simply reaching down every 2K miles, or less, hand twisting off the oil filter and putting on another. No drain pans and waste disposal for years for me, with low mileage.
That is if I understand this correctly.

 

[Devistater]

I'll definately have to look into this.