Mobil 1 oil changes for only $30+tax. Guess where at?

smu2000

Member
Jun 17, 2002
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Your local Walmart which has lube & tire service.

15-point service
5 quart of synthetic oil (any choice)
generic oil filter (who cares b/c going to change after 3500 miles)
vacuum interior
windshield cleaning
tires aired up

Cost me like 55 with Firestone and Honda just for the oil change and tire service.


vlbb972
 

ai42

Diamond Member
Jun 5, 2001
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Most auto shops can do oil changes for $15-20 (not always retail price but I keep going to this one shop and they give me preffered customer discount). And if you know how to do oil changes yourself it cost like $10.

You usually don't get a full check up but well, its not hard to do it yourself.
 

Pardus

Diamond Member
Jun 29, 2000
8,197
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walmart is my area doesnt have auto-service, its just a store. i can get a oil change any day of the week with 15-point inspection and new filter for $20, never seen a place vaccum the inside while changing your oil though :)
 

masterxfob

Diamond Member
May 20, 2001
7,366
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that's a great deal but don't cheap out on the oil filter, everything's important!
 

esquared

Forum Director & Omnipotent Overlord
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Oct 8, 2000
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Originally posted by: ai42
Most auto shops can do oil changes for $15-20 (not always retail price but I keep going to this one shop and they give me preffered customer discount). And if you know how to do oil changes yourself it cost like $10.

You usually don't get a full check up but well, its not hard to do it yourself.

Not for five quarts of synthetic oil you don't. It's $4-5/quart at Kragens. Mobil1 charges at JiffyLube where I live are 55.00
 

GoSharks

Diamond Member
Nov 29, 1999
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you are not getting sythetic oil with your regular $20 oil change. and no way can you do it yourself for $10 when the oil is going to cost you at least $20

*darn, beat to the punch ;)*
 

Ziptar

Platinum Member
Jul 7, 2001
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Mobil1 !!! My Jetta TDI is going to love that..... Cheapest I have been able to do a Mobil1 Oil
Change myself is:

$19.75 for oil, $3.95 a quart for Mobil1 at Target.
$8.50 for the O.E.M. Filters at local European Parts House... (Don't trust the Fram Crap..)
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$28.25 + tax + my time... I will have to check this out, is this a special or an always deal???

I usually go 5K - 7.5K on O & F Change... But, it's a diesel....... (138K and still going like new)
 

smu2000

Member
Jun 17, 2002
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Originally posted by: ai42
Most auto shops can do oil changes for $15-20 (not always retail price but I keep going to this one shop and they give me preffered customer discount). And if you know how to do oil changes yourself it cost like $10.

You usually don't get a full check up but well, its not hard to do it yourself.

Cost to do by yourself:

1-oil filter wrench ~ $5.00
1-adjustable wrench or socket ~ $5.00
1-oil filter ~ $4 or $5
5 quarts Mobil-1 synthetic oil ~ $25

*if you going to use regular oil this thread does not apply to you.

It is going to cost about the same price to do by yourself. No need to get down an dirty. Let the mechanic do it. :D

smu2000
 

geoffct

Member
Dec 13, 1999
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I pay ~$30 for 6 quarts of mobil one, then ~$10 for the M1 filter, and then take that all to my ford dealer to change for $8. They normally charge ~$20-30, but they give me a discount because I bring my own oil and filter.


SO yeah this is a HOT deal, thanks.

I will have to check my walmart.

Geoff
 

smu2000

Member
Jun 17, 2002
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Originally posted by: Ziptar

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I will have to check this out, is this a special or an always deal???
q]

This is an always deal. They just dont avertise it. If you dont like Mobil-1 synthetic then you can change it to whatever you want. I just stumbled on this deal while looking at fishing rods section.

smu2k
 

huesmann

Diamond Member
Dec 7, 1999
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Is it important to use a Mobil1 filter?

Those of you who don't use M1 yet, just remember, once you start using it, you can't go back to dinosaur oil.
 

Logloglog

Member
Nov 20, 2000
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30 for a full change with Mobil 1 is pretty good (5 quarts would run you about 25, 20 if its on sale, if someone can point out a cheaper source, feel free to post :) ), although I too would be concerned about the filter -- any specifics about what brand they use for this cheap oil change? FRAM is by far the worst (was once good but now is terrible-- do a search and see) but their "Supertech" supposedly ain't too bad (better than FRAM). I could definitely see doing this if the filter was half decent. Also curious as to why you'd only go 3500 on synthetic -- generally synthetic will last much longer (7-10k), although if you have a ricer, 1. you should just let me hit your car with a baseball bat first and 2. you'd probably have to change more often (though 3500 still seems early).
 

Sesopedalian

Golden Member
Oct 9, 1999
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You can switch back and forth as much as you like. I think you forgot about synthetic "blends" which are regular oil and a small amount of synthetic oil. I use synthetic just in the Winter and switch to regular in the summer. It also doesn't hurt to mix brands and viscosity weights, and if you're very quiet about it...shhhh....the engine will never know!
 

anazoal

Senior member
May 30, 2000
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Genuine question: the only tangible benefit of using synthetic oil is longer oil change intervals -- if you stick to the scheduled oil changes, is regular oil just as good?
 

Salvador

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May 19, 2001
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Your local Walmart which has lube & tire service.
I guessed right. Do I get a prize? ;) I don't know if I'd let the guys at Wal-Mart touch my car. When I was in college, I had a beater Ratsun 210. The tires wore out on the thing and I bought a cheapie set at Wal-Mart/Sam's and had the guys install them. First of all, they were white letter tires and I wanted them flipped inside, so the blackwall was out. I told them 2 or 3 times and they even wrote it down, but when I went to pick up the tires, they were whitewall out.

They also did a really half a*s job of balancing the tires. I used to mount and balance tires as a part time job in hs and when I looked at how they had the weights, I just rolled my eyes. I think the gals in the cafeteria trained these bozo's. The only good thing was that they didn't touch my POS car. I had put the car on jack stands and pulled the wheels in the driveway, then took them down in a pickup. No telling what they would've done to me $300 Ratsun special if I would've let them touch it. ;)

YMMV, but I just have visions of these guys stripping the drain plug or leaving it off all together. Or overfilling the oil at the very least. ;)

Sal
 

astrochimp

Member
Jul 31, 2001
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Originally posted by: anazoal
Genuine question: the only tangible benefit of using synthetic oil is longer oil change intervals -- if you stick to the scheduled oil changes, is regular oil just as good?


OK, you ASKED for it. You will now be all knowing when it comes to oil and filters.

ENGINE OIL BIBLE
 

Souka

Diamond Member
Sep 25, 2000
4,728
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For what it's worth.....

At Costco you can buy 6 packs of Mobil-1 Syn oil for $18-19, that's $3 (ish) per quart.



Enjoy

 

Salvador

Diamond Member
May 19, 2001
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Genuine question: the only tangible benefit of using synthetic oil is longer oil change intervals -- if you stick to the scheduled oil changes, is regular oil just as good?
Sorry for posting again, but I figured that my last post was long enough.

I think using oil and changing it is the most important thing. Synthetic oil is better than crude in my experiences. There is less friction, you build up a lot less sludge and the synthetic oil stays more stable at temperature extremes. I don't know if you live where it's really cold in the winter, but regular oil really gets syrupy when the temps dip below zero. Synth stays much more fluid and makes for easier starting in the cold. Also, because you can get that oil flowing faster in the cold, you can get it up to the top end (valve train) quicker and consequently you have less wear.

The biggest cause of wear is cold starts. That's when the oil has drained into the oil pan and you are basically starting your car without any lubrication. That's why people say to let the car warm up when you start it and not to accellerate hard until it comes up to operating temperature.

The other advantages that I've noticed is that the synthetic oil is more resistent to "cooking". I have a '84 VW Rabbit GTI that I bought new. I used to run Castrol 20W-50 racing oil in the thing when new because I was always cooking the regular 10w-40 oil black within a few 100 miles or so. Someone turned me onto Mobil 1 5w-30. As soon as I put this stuff in, the car ran 20 degree's Celsius cooler (that's dramatic) and it was a lesser viscosity of oil, so it ran better. I never cooked the oil black after that either. I run Amsoil in my GTI today. It's negligable if it's better than Mobil 1, but I like to use it anyway because I believe that it's better. The car now has 180K miles on it and it's still running strong (compression numbers are way up there). Original motor, trans and even clutch. I never babied the car either.

I'll tell you were synthetic oil or fluids has made a huge difference for me. I usually have manual transmission cars. When it gets cold out, the shifter is usually stiffer than anything until the car warms up. When I switched to a synthetic trans fluid, the difference was amazing. The shifter never got stiff like that again in the winter and makes the manual box shift slicker than ever. If you have a manual transmission car and live where it gets cold in the winter, you'll know what I'm talking about.

One other advantage is that synthetic oil is far less likely to turn acidic when you leave a car sitting for extended periods of time. Regular crude oil breaks down into acids much easier and gets contaminated quicker when the car sits for periods of time. That's why they say to change your oil every 3K miles or 6 months (whichever comes first). I'd feel comfortable leaving a car sit for a year with synthetic oil, but not crude oil.

As you can see, I'm very pro Synthetic. In addition to actually working better, it's a lot "greener" too because you aren't using petroleum products. I also run at extended drain intervals, so I use less oil and that's definitely a good thing.

A tip: I will usually run my cars twice the recommended oil change interval with synthetic oil. What I do is run 3-4K miles with a fresh oil and filter change and then for my next change, I just change the filter and add up to a quart of fresh oil to top it off. The synthetic oil can withstand more mileage. What can't withstand the mileage is the filter. Regular filters should be changed every 3-4K miles. If you buy something like a Amsoil filter, you can run maybe 5-7K, but I never push it.

I think synthetic is worth it if you value your car. The only time that I wouldn't recommend synthetic is for something like a lease car or a car that gets driven casually on a regular basis, never sits and never gets driven hard.

Anyway..

Sal
 

smu2000

Member
Jun 17, 2002
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Originally posted by: Logloglog


although if you have a ricer, 1. you should just let me hit your car with a baseball bat first

Don't Insult the Ride.
www.darionle.com/Ride_main.html

and 2. you'd probably have to change more often (though 3500 still seems early).

VTECing my ride does take alot of oil so, I will go a little further next time maybe 5k, but that is max.
Check my sig. That is where i get all the info i need on my s2000. :D

smu2k

 

smu2000

Member
Jun 17, 2002
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Originally posted by: Salvador
Your local Walmart which has lube & tire service.
YMMV, but I just have visions of these guys stripping the drain plug or leaving it off all together. Or overfilling the oil at the very least. ;)
Sal
True True.
I never had service done at Walmart before, so I was only 4 or 5 feet away from my car while she was getting some new oil. Sorry no prize, but if this question ever comes up in Trivia pursuit....

smu2k
 

salfter

Senior member
Sep 11, 2001
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Originally posted by: huesmann
Those of you who don't use M1 yet, just remember, once you start using it, you can't go back to dinosaur oil.

You can change back from synthetic oil to squished dinosaurs. What you can't do is go back from airplane-engine oil (normally used in light aircraft) to regular engine oil. (I've seen airplane-engine oil recommended as a workaround for some oil-related problems, but the only way you can switch back is to tear the engine apart and clean out all of the oil...which is what you'll probably need to do to fix the problem that caused you to start using the airplane stuff in the first place.)
 

slycat

Diamond Member
Jul 18, 2001
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watch this turn into a "...ur ride sux...u dunno shit...don't crap..." thread :D
 

cruxader

Member
Jan 31, 2001
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I'll only work with bosch, mobil1, or STP oil filters. Everything else is crap. For those of you that wonder, the other ones have cheap cardboard media and valves that don't really work, and these include OEM filters. All this has been verified by a group of guys that took apart every major brand.

Can't say $30 is bad at all though, just make sure they replace your oil pan drain plug washer afterwards.

And don't switch b/w synthetic and regular too often...its really not good for your engine...Some of my family friends helped develop Mobil1 and they said that internal company tests show that its bad to switch, and this holds true for any brand of synthetic, some worse than others...one exception though...if you're willing to drain your engine two or three times b/w switching then u'll be fine.
 

Salvador

Diamond Member
May 19, 2001
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You can go back to crude oil after using synthetic. There isn't a problem. Sometimes if you change from crude oil to synthetic on older, higher mileage cars, you develop oil leaks though. With crude oil, you create a "sludge" barrier and that sometimes dries out the seals and gaskets because the sludge acts as your seal against leakage. When you add the synthetic and it disolves that sludge barrier, the synthetic is exposed to dry seals and it will slip by. Also, if you had any leak in your engine before, odds are that it will be worse with synthetic because it's more slippery and will find any leaks.

You do not want to use synthetic on new cars until the cars have been broken in properly. All you'd be doing with synthetic on a new engine is prolonging the break in period because synthetic is slicker and causes less friction. You want to create some friction during break in. I wouldn't put synthetic in a new car until it has about 3k miles.

Sal