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Mobil 1 Oil Change Special $30 (B&M only)

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Originally posted by: tracerbullet
I dont' want to start an e-oil-argument but would like to know where you get your info...
I agree! Let's keep it simple... 😀

Go here: http://www.gf-5.com/

Watch the video titled: "Optimization of Oil Robustness and Fuel Economy"

Listen to what this Lee Williams has to say about it. LoL!

If you have an older car, you *need* to avoid GF-4 spec oil. GF-5 will replace GF-4 oil, but...

The smart money is on HM motor oil, for the foreseeable future!

Um... Not good enough for you?

Don't kill the messenger. I'm just trying to help you ppl out! 😉

Here is the current API rating system: http://www.aa1car.com/library/API_ratings.pdf (PDF file)

API SL - For 2004 and older automotive engines.

If your vehicle is older than 2005, it *needs* API SL motor oil.

ILSAC GF-4 / API SM is bad news for "2004 and older" vehicles! Basically they're 'too thin' (to increase gas mileage) and a lot of the friction modifier additives have been removed (to protect emission equipment, e.g. the newer style, more sensitive, catalytic converters).

Newer engines are designed to use these 'neutered' oils, but these oils aren't backwardly compatible with older engines - like in the past.

Put another way, API SL oils should NOT be used in 2005 and newer vehicles, and ILSAC GF-4 / API SM oils should NOT be used in 2004 and older vehicles.

'Regular' Mobil 1 motor oil should have a skull n' crossbones on it, instead of an 'Energy Starburst'!

ILSAC GF-4 / API SM oils will cause piston slap (especially on start-up), snapped rods, spun thrust bearings, and eat the cams in older motors...

Mobil considers Phosphorus (ZDDP) to be the most important high pressure additive, so that's what they use as a guide in their tables. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-En..._Mobil_1_Products.aspx (Proof)

Here's the Mobil 1 table: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-En...il_1_Product_Guide.pdf (PDF file)

ILSAC GF-4 / API SM must have less than 800 PPM of Phosphorus. That's NOT enough for older motors! That's why they make 'High Mileage' oil, so called!

As you can see in the table, 'regular' Mobil 1 only has 800 PPM of Phosphorus. Great for newer motors - slow death for older ones...

Mobil 1 'TDT' (Turbo Diesel Truck) has 1100 PPM - which is another good alternative, but a little much for the typical inline 4 motor. If you're turbo'ing your motor, however, this is the way to go. A lot of street/off-road racers use it.

Mobil 1 'High Mileage' has 1000 PPM - which is perfect for all-motor I-4's! There are a bunch of other additives in there too, which I won't bore you with...

NOTE: At the bottom of the Mobil table you'll see 2 motorcycle oils with extremely high levels of additives - and a lot of these additives are specific to M/C engines with 'wet clutches' and so forth. DO NOT USE THESE OILS IN YOUR CAR! It'll goof up your motor - guaranteed! Dittos for the racing oils. They're 'too thick' for street use (these new viscosity numbers are counter-intuitive, I know, but that's a story for a different time) and the ZDDP levels are off the chart!

Anyway, there's a LOT more to the story - more than we have room for here. However, in short, certain places, like auto supply stores, HAVE to sell ILSAC GF-4 / API SM oil in quart bottles, but they CAN sell API SL in bulk, e.g. gallon containers or larger. Other retailers, like Wal-Marts and drug stores, etc. can sell API SL in quart bottles, but they usually don't.

LoL! It's a real mess these days...

The important thing is to check the label!!!

If you want to play it safe, don't use ILSAC GF-4 / API SM oil in older vehicles! If you'll pardon the pun, it'll turn your motor into a ticking timebomb!

If you're running M-1, make sure it's 'High Mileage' or 'TDT', forget the rest, and always buy it in bulk containers, if they're available.
 
Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see anything in that video about high mileage oil in older motors?

I thought in order for an oil to be say 30 weight it had to meet certain specs (viscosity and all that), and 30 weight hasn't really changed at all.
 
Originally posted by: BlahBlahYouToo
what's the shelf life of motor oil?
I think 170 million years or so would be a close approximation.
Or at least untill the Jurassic rolls around again.
😀😀😀

 
Well crap, I used the extended performance version on my 2002 Infiniti I35... I'll go with the high mileage version next time... I'll go get some more while it's on sale 🙂
 
Originally posted by: child of wonder
I'm going to change it myself this weekend for half that much. Will take 30-45 mins tops.

You may be "Child of Wonder", but your reading skills are lacking. There's no possible way you're going to change yours with synthetic oil (which is what this post was about) for half the price.
 
Originally posted by: jwsw
Originally posted by: child of wonder
I'm going to change it myself this weekend for half that much. Will take 30-45 mins tops.

You may be "Child of Wonder", but your reading skills are lacking. There's no possible way you're going to change yours with synthetic oil (which is what this post was about) for half the price.

I suppose it's possible if you used the generic walmart blended synthetic oil and an *really* cheap filter... but that's not the point of this thread. This thread is about a good deal on good oil and a good filter... saving you around $12 - $16 on the oil change (depending on which type of oil and filter you need).

Mobil 1 is certainly not the oil for anyone if they're looking for the cheapest oil change you can get. But let's not turn this thread into the eternal dino vs. synthetic oil debate... please 🙂
 
Dang-it!! I just had a Mobile 1 oil change done on my Vette.

I buy my own oil at Walmart and Mobile 1 oil filter at AutoZone and then take it all to the Chevy dealer. They only charge me $10 to change the oil.
 
Originally posted by: Computergasm
Dang-it!! I just had a Mobile 1 oil change done on my Vette.

I buy my own oil at Walmart and Mobile 1 oil filter at AutoZone and then take it all to the Chevy dealer. They only charge me $10 to change the oil.

That's a pretty sweet deal... buy some more to prepare for the next one!
 
Originally posted by: Krioni
Originally posted by: SparkyJJO
Good deal. Thanks for the info, I don't need an oil change for another 3000 miles but I might just grab it for later.

Yeah, I'm actually thinking of stocking up for my next few oil changes. Makes it worth it to step up to full synthetic instead of blends.

this is a great idea. they haven't had this deal in a while ,and i had to pay full price for M1 because i didnt have an extra set lying around .
 
Originally posted by: VinDSL
Originally posted by: Xcobra
Originally posted by: isekii
which is the API SL for Mobil 1 Synth ?

I was wondering this too...Im trying to go Synth for my 99 corolla
Heh! Let's make it super simple...

Here are a couple M-1 snappies for you - from my workbench:

http://www.VinDSL.com/images/BDC_NEED_THIS1.jpg (front)

http://www.VinDSL.com/images/BDC_NEED_THIS2.jpg (back)

That is hilarious! Thanks for making it as plain as humanly possible 🙂
 
Originally posted by: Krioni
Originally posted by: jwsw
Originally posted by: child of wonder
I'm going to change it myself this weekend for half that much. Will take 30-45 mins tops.

You may be "Child of Wonder", but your reading skills are lacking. There's no possible way you're going to change yours with synthetic oil (which is what this post was about) for half the price.

I suppose it's possible if you used the generic walmart blended synthetic oil and an *really* cheap filter... but that's not the point of this thread. This thread is about a good deal on good oil and a good filter... saving you around $12 - $16 on the oil change (depending on which type of oil and filter you need).

Mobil 1 is certainly not the oil for anyone if they're looking for the cheapest oil change you can get. But let's not turn this thread into the eternal dino vs. synthetic oil debate... please 🙂

Can you link to one? I'm going to have to start going to the garage section more frequently, this is all news to me and very interesting. I'm assuming VinDSL posts over there a lot. Top notch member! Very helpful.
 
I guess this can turn into a dino vs synthetic discussion... but if it does, I assume it should be resumed in the off-topic forum.
 
Originally posted by: Krioni
Originally posted by: VinDSL
Originally posted by: Xcobra
Originally posted by: isekii
which is the API SL for Mobil 1 Synth ?

I was wondering this too...Im trying to go Synth for my 99 corolla
Heh! Let's make it super simple...

Here are a couple M-1 snappies for you - from my workbench:

http://www.VinDSL.com/images/BDC_NEED_THIS1.jpg (front)

http://www.VinDSL.com/images/BDC_NEED_THIS2.jpg (back)

That is hilarious! Thanks for making it as plain as humanly possible 🙂

Quite so. Thanks Vin!

 
Originally posted by: VinDSL
Originally posted by: Xcobra
Originally posted by: isekii
which is the API SL for Mobil 1 Synth ?

I was wondering this too...Im trying to go Synth for my 99 corolla
Heh! Let's make it super simple...

Here are a couple M-1 snappies for you - from my workbench:

http://www.VinDSL.com/images/BDC_NEED_THIS1.jpg (front)

http://www.VinDSL.com/images/BDC_NEED_THIS2.jpg (back)

Well, shit.

I ran the standard Mobil 1 "Full Synthetic" in my 2004 Maxima for the last five years...

Switched to it after the second "standard" oil change @ 7500 miles.

Had zero problems though... it had 72,000 miles when I got rid of it a month ago, many of those miles in the last 1.5 years on the highway (10k/year for first four years).
 
VinDSL, the API_Ratings.pdf you linked contains the following: "If an automotive owner?s manual calls for an API SJ
or SL oil, an API SM oil will provide full protection," and the description for the SM category states, "For ALL automotive engines currently in use." Also, the non-HM oil in the pics you posted says, "API SM,SL/CF" which would imply that it is for use with both cars that call for SM and SL/CF. Please explain. Thanks.
 
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