I like it.
I can see the psu mounting back from the mobo but I.m not clear on that fan, isn't that the backside? that's from the scythe cooler, no?
I'm planning a mitx build now as well but I'll start with a Winsis case. I intended to use the scythe but found a web pic showing that it overhung the board and covered mounting screws.
I hope the heath issues are short and your family well. Keep us posted.
Powersupply is a Seasonc SFX 350 watt with 36 amp 12 volt rail which is enough for this build.
Sweet, a scratch-built case! I've always wanted to do that and indeed have several times even gone as far as to buy the materials and start the build. Unfortunately I suck and have never finished a scratch-built case.
I have that PSU. It is only 26A combined +12v continuous.
http://www.seasonicusa.com/sfx.htm
12V1 18A
12V2 18A
combined 312W
312W / 12V = 26A
Until the Silverstone 450W SFX unit hits widespread availability, this is the most powerful continuous 12v output of any SFX PSU.
I know what the Seasonic can power. I've also used it (very briefly) with a GTX 260 and a Core 2 Duo. I'm just pointing out that it doesn't have as much amperage as you think it does.
The Silverstone 450W SFX has one review that was done without a load tester or any precision electrical measuring tools, but it was run with a fairly high end system. LINKY
So, you have a bending brake? Are they easy to use?
Things I need to still find and need help in is designing the cooling holes , slots . I am thinking I will mill some slots in the aluminum will try to do this with some material i have here first to see if it can be done with my drill press and vise.
I am also looking for small momentary switchs since this case is small I would like something that looks right.
I've heard of guys using a router to cut slots in aluminum, I have the bits and table but haven't tried it. A mill vise w/ the drill press may work but a drill press chuck isn't made for lateral pressure. I have a 1/4" side cutting drill bit I got from a woodworkers catalog, it had a tendency to walk but it may do the job. Another thought I had was to predrill a starting hole and then swap with the same size router bit then move the piece, the mill vise would be great for this.
Radio Shack is where I got switches for my nightstand PC. The faceplate they are mounted into is 1/8" thick with a bracket epoxied to the back. They are 3/8" dia. and are mounted to protrude about an 1/8" but could be mounted flush if the faceplate material was double thick. You need room for the movement when pushed not to hang on the back and get stuck.
(black buttons)
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Your stuff looks good, I wish I had a box and pan, I have a siding brake, (useless for this and a big cast iron commercial available but alas, still useless).
I'm looking forward to seeing your finished work.
My vote is for "Plummers Goop" it's like a silicone but oil base, sets in a few minutes then behaves like rubber cement but not sticky, flexible and strong but can peel off once you get it started. Packaged in a toothpaste tube, ask at the hardware store. I use it for windows, blue tape around the edge where I don't want excess, let it cure on top of the tape then cut along the side of the plexi and peel, done did.
Wow, that modders mesh stuff looks great!
ahh jen glad to see u back in making!![]()