mini itx case build (worklog)

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
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a idea i have had for awhile . not sure when will be finished due to health problems.

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WoodButcher

Platinum Member
Mar 10, 2001
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I like it.
I can see the psu mounting back from the mobo but I.m not clear on that fan, isn't that the backside? that's from the scythe cooler, no?
I'm planning a mitx build now as well but I'll start with a Winsis case. I intended to use the scythe but found a web pic showing that it overhung the board and covered mounting screws.
I hope the heath issues are short and your family well. Keep us posted.
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
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76
I like it.
I can see the psu mounting back from the mobo but I.m not clear on that fan, isn't that the backside? that's from the scythe cooler, no?
I'm planning a mitx build now as well but I'll start with a Winsis case. I intended to use the scythe but found a web pic showing that it overhung the board and covered mounting screws.
I hope the heath issues are short and your family well. Keep us posted.


At this point of construction it has room for up to 11 inch long video card. A full height tower heatsink is also possible with this type of case. I added a slim fan to blow on back of motherboard as seen in pictures to help with cooling the mosfets that are on back of these small size boards something I havent seen done before. Powersupply is a Seasonc SFX 350 watt with 36 amp 12 volt rail which is enough for this build.

Things I need to still find and need help in is designing the cooling holes , slots . I am thinking I will mill some slots in the aluminum will try to do this with some material i have here first to see if it can be done with my drill press and vise.

I am also looking for small momentary switchs since this case is small I would like something that looks right.
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
7
81
Sweet, a scratch-built case! I've always wanted to do that and indeed have several times even gone as far as to buy the materials and start the build. Unfortunately I suck and have never finished a scratch-built case.

Powersupply is a Seasonc SFX 350 watt with 36 amp 12 volt rail which is enough for this build.

I have that PSU. It is only 26A combined +12v continuous.

http://www.seasonicusa.com/sfx.htm
12V1 18A
12V2 18A
combined 312W


312W / 12V = 26A

Until the Silverstone 450W SFX unit hits widespread availability, this is the most powerful continuous 12v output of any SFX PSU.
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
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76
Sweet, a scratch-built case! I've always wanted to do that and indeed have several times even gone as far as to buy the materials and start the build. Unfortunately I suck and have never finished a scratch-built case.



I have that PSU. It is only 26A combined +12v continuous.

http://www.seasonicusa.com/sfx.htm
12V1 18A
12V2 18A
combined 312W


312W / 12V = 26A

Until the Silverstone 450W SFX unit hits widespread availability, this is the most powerful continuous 12v output of any SFX PSU.

i'm interested in reading reviews of the silverstone model before i purchase one. this seasonic has powered a 260 gtx+ with a quad 9550 for me in past

i have cut the optical drive hole today and working on the mount for it . time to go back to my small bender and see if this comes out right.

hugs

Jen
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
7
81
I know what the Seasonic can power. I've also used it (very briefly) with a GTX 260 and a Core 2 Duo. I'm just pointing out that it doesn't have as much amperage as you think it does.

The Silverstone 450W SFX has one review that was done without a load tester or any precision electrical measuring tools, but it was run with a fairly high end system. LINKY

So, you have a bending brake? Are they easy to use?
 
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Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
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I know what the Seasonic can power. I've also used it (very briefly) with a GTX 260 and a Core 2 Duo. I'm just pointing out that it doesn't have as much amperage as you think it does.

The Silverstone 450W SFX has one review that was done without a load tester or any precision electrical measuring tools, but it was run with a fairly high end system. LINKY

So, you have a bending brake? Are they easy to use?

i have two benders , one is a 2ft pan and brake and other is 3ft brake. easy to use but i would like some kind of stops so that it would stop at 90 degrees as these both can do 120 degrees. i been bending 16 gauge aluminum on these which is more than recommended if going full length of bender.

recently purchased a old drill press which i will try to mill slots in the aluminum . not sure how well this will do .

wish i had a stomp shear for this sheetmetal , much better than me useing a old jigsaw and dremal for cutting.

have made the optical drive cage need to finish drilling holes for it today then i can make some other small triangle braces .


Jen
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
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76
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added heatsink , some triangles on corner to give more strength. found a place for my ssd . have the optical drive in place with mounting for it. have added a milling vise to my drill press will try to make slots in case this weekend if able to
 
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WoodButcher

Platinum Member
Mar 10, 2001
2,158
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Things I need to still find and need help in is designing the cooling holes , slots . I am thinking I will mill some slots in the aluminum will try to do this with some material i have here first to see if it can be done with my drill press and vise.

I am also looking for small momentary switchs since this case is small I would like something that looks right.

I've heard of guys using a router to cut slots in aluminum, I have the bits and table but haven't tried it. A mill vise w/ the drill press may work but a drill press chuck isn't made for lateral pressure. I have a 1/4" side cutting drill bit I got from a woodworkers catalog, it had a tendency to walk but it may do the job. Another thought I had was to predrill a starting hole and then swap with the same size router bit then move the piece, the mill vise would be great for this.
Radio Shack is where I got switches for my nightstand PC. The faceplate they are mounted into is 1/8" thick with a bracket epoxied to the back. They are 3/8" dia. and are mounted to protrude about an 1/8" but could be mounted flush if the faceplate material was double thick. You need room for the movement when pushed not to hang on the back and get stuck.

(black buttons)
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Your stuff looks good, I wish I had a box and pan, I have a siding brake, (useless for this and a big cast iron commercial available but alas, still useless).
I'm looking forward to seeing your finished work.
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
14
76
I've heard of guys using a router to cut slots in aluminum, I have the bits and table but haven't tried it. A mill vise w/ the drill press may work but a drill press chuck isn't made for lateral pressure. I have a 1/4" side cutting drill bit I got from a woodworkers catalog, it had a tendency to walk but it may do the job. Another thought I had was to predrill a starting hole and then swap with the same size router bit then move the piece, the mill vise would be great for this.
Radio Shack is where I got switches for my nightstand PC. The faceplate they are mounted into is 1/8" thick with a bracket epoxied to the back. They are 3/8" dia. and are mounted to protrude about an 1/8" but could be mounted flush if the faceplate material was double thick. You need room for the movement when pushed not to hang on the back and get stuck.

(black buttons)
DSCF1760.JPG


Your stuff looks good, I wish I had a box and pan, I have a siding brake, (useless for this and a big cast iron commercial available but alas, still useless).
I'm looking forward to seeing your finished work.


the milling of slots with drill press met with disastor yesterday . the bit did walk as you say and made slight mess on the cover. so now i am going to do this the hard way and drill holes on end of slots and dremal the rest out. not sure how to fix the mistake i made yesterday with the drill press .

after thinking about this some more i feel it will be best to cut out the metal and add modders mesh instead of trying to cut slots in this metal with the dremal i have. to cut the slots will take alot of time on my part and i feel i cant do it well enough. not certain how to add this modders mesh maybe pop rivits or epoxy or glue or something .

sigh

Jen
 
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WoodButcher

Platinum Member
Mar 10, 2001
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My vote is for "Plummers Goop" it's like a silicone but oil base, sets in a few minutes then behaves like rubber cement but not sticky, flexible and strong but can peel off once you get it started. Packaged in a toothpaste tube, ask at the hardware store. I use it for windows, blue tape around the edge where I don't want excess, let it cure on top of the tape then cut along the side of the plexi and peel, done did.
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
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76
My vote is for "Plummers Goop" it's like a silicone but oil base, sets in a few minutes then behaves like rubber cement but not sticky, flexible and strong but can peel off once you get it started. Packaged in a toothpaste tube, ask at the hardware store. I use it for windows, blue tape around the edge where I don't want excess, let it cure on top of the tape then cut along the side of the plexi and peel, done did.

purchased some 3m advhesive will also look for this other as well. thank you for this information

hugs

Jen
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
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76
here is mesh i added to case , waiting for some items i ordered to arrive

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F1ForFrags

Junior Member
May 17, 2010
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Great job Jen, I don't think I'd have half the time or patience required to build a case from scratch! :p
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
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ahh jen glad to see u back in making! :D
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
14
76
ahh jen glad to see u back in making! :D

well was tell i fell 2 weeks ago and hurt both knees still recovering from . i will have a updated picture of case later today . plan to start adding usb , audio on front of case tomorrow and maybe enough time to make hard drive cage


hugs

Jen
 

Jen

Elite Member
Dec 8, 1999
24,206
14
76
added

usb / audio connectors to front of case
power switchs
hard drive cage
cut bottom backside of case so cables and air can go through

still to do list

make case doors ,
finish sleeving powersupply and custom power cable lengths
prime and paint

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konakona

Diamond Member
May 6, 2004
6,285
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the mesh looks real sweet!

isn't the case a tad bit large for what it is though? I thought the whole point of mini-itx is being small :eek: