Manual Transmission Issues

[KK]

I have a '94 ford ranger 2.3 with a manual transmission. The past week or so it has been had to get it into 1st, 2nd and reverse when the engine is running. If the engine is not running it seems to shift fine. What do y'all think the issue could be. The clutch not disengaging fully?

One other thing I did notice was that if from a stop I stick in half way into 3rd with the clutch pedal pressed as far as it will go, that it will grind alittle. Would that be an indication of the gears not fully being stopped when the clutch is pressed, which would mean the clutch is starting to go out?

 

[jlee]

Check your clutch fluid level. Your master or slave cylinder might be on its way out.

 

[KK]

Check your clutch fluid level. Your master or slave cylinder might be on its way out.

Clutch fluid was good, I did top it off maybe with about a table spoon worth. If it was an issue with the master or slave cylinder could it be bad and not lose fluid?

 

[jlee]

It sounds to me like your clutch isn't fully disengaging, which would lead me to believe there's something wrong with the hydraulic system (bad part / air in the line). If it was a transmission (synchro) issue, I doubt you'd lose three gears simultaneously.

Is it basically behaving like it would if the clutch functioned properly and you didn't push the pedal all the way down?

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Those mazda trans (in my experience with my 98 at least) like clean fluid.

When I bought my 98 lima the transmission was like that, sorta odd shifting into 1st/2nd and sometimes grinding into 3rd unless I'm really slow and careful.

I went to wal-mart and bought cheap trans fluid (IIRC it takes auto trans fluid). It was easy to replace, although I had to buy a cheap hand pump to fill it. For 50k miles I noticed no issues, but 3rd is starting to grind a little so I'm going to replace it again with 'better' fluid

 

[jlee]

My car takes brake fluid, so make sure to double check that you've got the right stuff. 🙂

 

[StageLeft]

My 2000 max also takes brake fluid. I assume that brake fluid is more common than auto transmission fluid in a clutch line. They are after all serving pretty much the exact same purpose.

 

[KK]

My 2000 max also takes brake fluid. I assume that brake fluid is more common than auto transmission fluid in a clutch line. They are after all serving pretty much the exact same purpose.

Yeah, I did put brake fluid in the clutch.
Also I got up under it last night and topped of the transmission with some mercon atf. Didn't take but about 1/3 of a quart. I'd hate to empty it and then still have to drop the tranny anyways. If I do have to drop the tranny to work on the clutch, would I have to drain the transmission?

 

[skyking]

Yeah, I did put brake fluid in the clutch.
Also I got up under it last night and topped of the transmission with some mercon atf. Didn't take but about 1/3 of a quart. I'd hate to empty it and then still have to drop the tranny anyways. If I do have to drop the tranny to work on the clutch, would I have to drain the transmission?

It is a pain in the ass to keep the fluid from leaking out the tailshaft after you remove the driveline. People who do it often have dummy yokes they can plug in there after removing the driveline, or some other corking method. I prefer draining it out in a more organized manner, it seems to get everywhere otherwise.

 

[chibichanman]

Check the clutch pedal adjustment, if you have the repair manual, it should say how to do it, but it should just be a screw type mechanism with locking washers to keep it in play. This happened to me in my car, the washer nuts got loose, the play got to almost nothing on the pedal, and it would grind and have problems. Haven't had a problem since, other than it getting loose again (just tightened it again).

If that doesn't fix it... see above. Good luck!

 

[SpatiallyAware]

My 2000 max also takes brake fluid. I assume that brake fluid is more common than auto transmission fluid in a clutch line. They are after all serving pretty much the exact same purpose.

I'm talking about the trans fluid itself

 

[KK]

Check the clutch pedal adjustment, if you have the repair manual, it should say how to do it, but it should just be a screw type mechanism with locking washers to keep it in play. This happened to me in my car, the washer nuts got loose, the play got to almost nothing on the pedal, and it would grind and have problems. Haven't had a problem since, other than it getting loose again (just tightened it again).

If that doesn't fix it... see above. Good luck!

Well I'll definitely take a look at that. Hopefully it could be that simple.

 

[KK]

Well no adjustment to the pedal or loose pedal. I took the truck for a ride yesterday, and it shifted much easier. I put it on jack stands and when I shifted in reverse with the clutch pressed in, the rear wheels would spin. But you could stop the wheels real easy. Got underneath and looked inside the bellhousing at the clutch, the slave cylinder would only move around a quarter of an inch. Is that all they are supposed to move?

 

[allanon1965]

the clutch slave only moves a small amount. Those are prone to the clutch slave leaking a small amount and sucking air back into the system, there is a bleeder screw just above the clutch hydraulic line on the trans, open the bleeder and have a buddy push the clutch pedal down and then close the bleeder and have him let up on the pedal. he may have to pull it back up by hand or his foot.

do not let the pedal up with the bleeder open.

this may help the pedal feel and make it shift better, if it does, then when the clutch does need replacment, replace the slave as well with an OEM Ford part. they are a bit expensive but well worth the cost by not having to do the job over. You have to pull the trans to replace the clutch slave cylinder.

the other possibility is a clutch component could have an issue (pressure plate or disc) in which case the trans would have to come out to find out the root cause.

 

[KK]

the clutch slave only moves a small amount. Those are prone to the clutch slave leaking a small amount and sucking air back into the system, there is a bleeder screw just above the clutch hydraulic line on the trans, open the bleeder and have a buddy push the clutch pedal down and then close the bleeder and have him let up on the pedal. he may have to pull it back up by hand or his foot.

do not let the pedal up with the bleeder open.

this may help the pedal feel and make it shift better, if it does, then when the clutch does need replacment, replace the slave as well with an OEM Ford part. they are a bit expensive but well worth the cost by not having to do the job over. You have to pull the trans to replace the clutch slave cylinder.

the other possibility is a clutch component could have an issue (pressure plate or disc) in which case the trans would have to come out to find out the root cause.

Just a follow up, it was shifting a tiny bit better the last few times I had drove it, which is only about once a week. Anyways I got to thinking about this today, and took over to the old mans and I had to shutdown the engine twice to shift into first on the way over there. Once over there, opened up the inspection hole and looked into it while he pressed the clutch in. I could only see it moving maybe 4mm, and I remember reading something that there should be about >6.5mm movement. So we located the bleed valve, and did as you wrote, opened up the valve, press the clutch, close valve, release clutch. did that twice. Second time I could tell there was fluid coming out, couldn't tell the first time though. Anyways, now it seems to be shifting alot easier and the slave cylinder is moving atleast 6mm. We did pour out what came out and it was very black. Probably should have done it a few more times to make sure it was completely cleaned out, and may do that if it starts acting up again.

 

[exdeath]

Definately a clutch adjustment issue going by your symptoms. Try to stall it, I bet it starts catching very close to the floor. Probably less so now.