Manual SLR question

[lupin]

Finally got my camera.. Nikon FE with 50 mm 1.4 lens.

Spent two rolls taking pics on the new camera, just tyring to get accustomed with the controls and stuff, as this is a pure manual. The last one I got has either shutter priority or apperture priority or totally auto.

Anyway,
I used a 200 speed film. I tried a range of aperture from 5.6 to 1.4. I also tried shutter speeds starting from 1/60 to 1/1000 (max).

Don't laugh now..

but from two rolls that I spent, (48 shots), only 5 or so is in focus. Eveything else is either out of focus, or is in focus at the (totally) wrong places...

Hey, I tried focusing from the viewfinder allright, and I know that I'm supposed to get the image in the center aligned and stuff.. but what's up?? What am I doing wrong?? They're totally out of focus. Big time.. so it seems that there is something that I'm missing here.

 

[snakesnfrogs]

your depth of field is wrong---pick up a DoF calculator


here's one you can d/l and carry w/ you



or you can pick up a copy of the Kodak Professional Photoguide---it's got one in it

 

[Viperoni]

Remember the more the close your aperture the more DOF you get....99% sure it's that way.
So it'll compensate for slightly off focused pictures.

 

[snakesnfrogs]

here's a good link as well


and here's a good tutorial on exposure

 

[Moonbeam]

With the lens stopped at 16 you should be able to manually set the focus where infinity to fairly close up is automatically in focus. There are colored markings and meters on the lens that tell you the depth of field at various f stops and distances. You should also be able to set the lens to infinity and take in focus pictures of distant objects. If they don't come out in focus there's something wrong with your camera.

 

[lupin]

How do I adjust the DoF though??

 

[IcemanJer]

Also make sure you're focusing correctly. Point the circle in the middle of your viewfinder at the object that you want to focus on, adjust the focus ring so that the split image in the 2 semi-circles in the center match up.

Check your manual for a better description.

 

[lupin]

snakesnfrogs:

but how do I adjust the DoF??



<< Remember the more the close your aperture the more DOF you get....99% sure it's that way. >>



I know that. On some cases I do want the background out of focus.. but it turned out that the subject is also out of focus.. or some of the background in focus while subject is out of focus.



<< With the lens stopped at 16 you should be able to manually set the focus where infinity to fairly close up is automatically in focus. >>



Yeah.. I don't want everything to be in focus though.



<< Also make sure you're focusing correctly. Point the circle in the middle of your viewfinder at the object that you want to focus on, adjust the focus ring so that the split image in the 2 semi-circles in the center match up. >>



Did that.

 

[ultravox]

First off dont use any speed below 250 except when using flash (125) or doing time exposures in which case you need a tripod.
The smaller the aperture, the more depth of field you will get. Try focusing by not concentrating too much on the center grid. Sometimes it's hard to make out exactly when the split image thing is spot on but when looking through the whole viewfinder, you see the whole picture. On the lens, you can also get a distance thingie that can help.
A neat little trick for getting the right aperture opening when shooting people....take a reading on the palm of your hand, it should put you in the ballpark.
Is not the FE the auto version of the FM? I could be wrong but I have the FM and it's manual
I would like to sell my FM (blackbody) with the motor drive , 300m nikkor, 135 nikkor lenses if you're interested

 

[lupin]

<< First off dont use any speed below 250 except when using flash (125) >>



Why? from what I've read, your lens length is the minimum for shutter spd. (meaning 1/60 for my 50 mm)



<< The smaller the aperture, the more depth of field you will get. >>



Yeah.. I know that, but it seems that there is something else that I'm missing. (or my camera is messed up!! )



<< A neat little trick for getting the right aperture opening when shooting people....take a reading on the palm of your hand, it should put you in the ballpark. >>



What?? I don't get it.



<< Is not the FE the auto version of the FM? I could be wrong but I have the FM and it's manual >>

Yes, it's the auto version. It's weird b/c I was looking at the FM2n before the FE, but they tend to be a little more expensive than the FE. Which is why I got the FE. I don't know much about the original FM though.

I just got this camera, so I don't think I'm going to replace it anytime soon. (unless it's messed up) THX anyway.

 

[IcemanJer]

er.. *might* be messed up..

 

[ultravox]

Using any speed below 250 and there is a good chance the image will be blurred unless you use a tripod. Even pushing the shutter moves the camera a bit unless you've a real steady hand. What you read about lens and speed is wrong. There is a good chance your pica are out of focus because they are blurred rather than out of focus. Try using 250 speed unless you're shooting something in movement then use 500 or 1000. I would not use anything below 250 except for eceptional reasons.
About the palm of your hand thing: Let's say you want to shoot a pic of your GF or whatever......instead of pointing the camera at her and playing with the exposure, oint the camera at the palm of your hand (assuming the lighting is the same) and take the reading for exposure off your hand, the premise being that you are taking a reading off of skin, and not. trees in the background or the rubber batman suit she's wearing.....kapiche?

Might I suggest you get some B+W film for practice..you'll get the basics a lot cheaper and you can have contact sheets made rather than prints.
I'd trade you the Nikon for that Sony if it's what I think it is. I still have an old Nikkormat that I'd keep anyway.....just a thought

 

[lupin]

<< er.. *might* be messed up.. >>



don't you say that!!!!



<< Using any speed below 250 and there is a good chance the image will be blurred unless you use a tripod. Even pushing the shutter moves the camera a bit unless you've a real steady hand. What you read about lens and speed is wrong. >>



ok.. I'll try that.



<< About the palm of your hand thing: Let's say you want to shoot a pic of your GF or whatever......instead of pointing the camera at her and playing with the exposure, oint the camera at the palm of your hand (assuming the lighting is the same) and take the reading for exposure off your hand, the premise being that you are taking a reading off of skin, and not. trees in the background or the rubber batman suit she's wearing.....kapiche? >>



sort of get the idea.



<<

Might I suggest you get some B+W film for practice..you'll get the basics a lot cheaper and you can have contact sheets made rather than prints. >>



cool. is BW film cheaper?? and what's contact sheets?



<< I'd trade you the Nikon for that Sony if it's what I think it is. I still have an old Nikkormat that I'd keep anyway.....just a thought >>



hmm, I'm trying to get rid of the Sony.. but I don't want another mechanical SLR.

[/i] >>

 

[Cyberian]

<< Might I suggest you get some B+W film for practice..you'll get the basics a lot cheaper >>



Ultravox beat me to this suggestion, but it is a very good one.
You might also want to jot down the aperture setting and shutter speed for each picture so that you can sit down and compare results.

 

[ultravox]

Contact sheet is an 8x10 with the pics printed on it..all the pics are the size of the negative so you only pay for one exposure on an 8x10 . Used to cost about $5-6 bucks for a 36
btw use ilford 400 or Kodak triX 400

 

[lupin]

ultrafox:

can I get a contact sheet print for color??

BTW, I just talked to my friend, he also agreed that 1/60 is too slow.

So it seems that the problem IS the shutter speed. f*cking book told me the wrong thing.

I'll stay with 1/250 or higher next time.

Thanks for the inputs.

 

[RossGr]

An SLR is pretty much WYSIWYG, be sure the what you see through the view finder is in focus and the film should be in focus.

Anybody can handhold down 1/60 as that is about where most point and shoots run. With care you can handhold 1/30 sec. You need some form of brace for less then that. I have hand held as low as 1/8 with occasional success.

Since you did not mention exposure I assume that the light meter is working correctly and you are setting shutter speed and aperture correctly for your lighting conditions.

 

[ultravox]

I don't see why you couldn't get a contact sheet for colour although I never have seen one myself. B+W is cool though..it might get you into developing yourself which is a lot of fun. I used to shoot 10-13 rolls of 36 per weekend following the motocross circuit here in quebec..used to sell 8x10's to the racers for $4.00 a pop...always made $150-$250 per weekend and it was a lot of fun. You can then buy film by the foot and spool it yourself using old Ilford spools..works out real cheap.

BTW if you buy lenses for your SLR...go with Nikkor..they're expensive but worth the price. You wouldn't drive an Z3 with recaps on it woulkd you?

Have fun!

 

[lupin]

<< Anybody can handhold down 1/60 as that is about where most point and shoots run. With care you can handhold 1/30 sec. You need some form of brace for less then that. I have hand held as low as 1/8 with occasional success. >>



Why do you think my photos are blurry then??


ultravox:
yeah.. I might consider developing my own pics later.. for now, I'd rather concentrate on getting the shots right first.

the lens that I get with this camera is indeed a nikkor / nikon. probably not that big of a deal since it's only a 50mm.

btw, why does it say nikkor and nikon on the lens? are they two different companies or something?

 

[ElFenix]

nikon tends to put nikkor on its better lenses. that 1.4 is a better lens by about 50% than the regular 50/1.8 lens. makes sense to me.

as for SLR being WYSIWYG, only if you're looking the the DoF preview. if he has the thing stopped wide open with a short shutter speed theres only going to be a very small part in focus.

if you really want to concentrate on getting shots right you should use positive film. that way you can be sure its not some computer deciding how you wanted the exposure to be. otherwise, only develop with someone you know that they're doing it right.