Managed to destroy a dual valve spring

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
I've already been contemplating the scenarios. From new heads, ported heads, or just replace the springs in these heads. New intake, ported intake, or just put the stock intake manifold back on. I have a fairly large cam, so anything I do will see good gains.

It's not a daily driver, so I can let it sit the way it is and think about it.
 

Jimzz

Diamond Member
Oct 23, 2012
4,399
190
106
"The valve springs I purchased are PRC dual .675". From what I gather is that they had a bad batch of them last year and I happen to have them."

Are they standing behind their valve springs? Or do you have to eat it all?
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
Going to eat it. I'll just buy new springs... and other go fast goodies while I'm in there.
 

olds

Elite Member
Mar 3, 2000
50,125
780
126
Ported heads. Gasket matching. 3 angle valve job. Swirl polished, undercut valves. Titanium valve spring parts...
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
Placed an order for the comp cams spring compression tool. It's $100 for what looks to be a very simple tool.
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
I bought the one that work on both cathedral (LS1 LS2) and rectangular (LS3) port heads. Just in case I get something else in the future.
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
The car isn't together yet. Took both 243 heads off and sent them to a shop called BES for porting. Sent the Kooks 1 and 7/8" headers to get ceramic coated. Had to drop the steering rack to get the drivers side header out (pain in the ass). I also took a Dremel to the LS2 intake manifold and opened the runners from .95" to 1.05" wide at 1.5" to 2" deep. Did a bunch of other misc things to it in the past couple weeks.
 

foghorn67

Lifer
Jan 3, 2006
11,883
63
91
The car isn't together yet. Took both 243 heads off and sent them to a shop called BES for porting. Sent the Kooks 1 and 7/8" headers to get ceramic coated. Had to drop the steering rack to get the drivers side header out (pain in the ass). I also took a Dremel to the LS2 intake manifold and opened the runners from .95" to 1.05" wide at 1.5" to 2" deep. Did a bunch of other misc things to it in the past couple weeks.

Flipping sweet.
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
In addition to the 243 heads being ported I'm also going to have them milled .030 which would increase the compression ratio to around 11.5 with fly cutting using GM head gaskets. 10.9 is stock.
 

Moonrise

Member
Aug 3, 2013
38
0
0
Solid. Like that you're going to do the added work and get it how you want since you're taking it all apart anyways. I wish budget had allowed me to do the same rebuilding our '69 327 block and heads, but they're iron anyway so I couldn't go too overboard with the CR without requiring much more work I am not really in the mood to do.
 

olds

Elite Member
Mar 3, 2000
50,125
780
126
I ran steel heads at 10:1 in the 455 in my boat. But with California gas I always ran premium and a little race gas.
I probably could have gotten away without the race gas but I wasn't going to risk it.
 

Moonrise

Member
Aug 3, 2013
38
0
0
I definitely wouldn't. California gas is terrible for engines. I remember my grandpa saying how he had an old Camaro that was getting awful detonation out of nowhere and when he finally stopped to think about it, it was because he filled up in CA and the most premium gas at the pump was only 91 octane (plus whatever else they throw in it). He had to drive home through Nevada to get 93 octane the rest of the way and fortunately for him the pumps near his home had 93 octane as well.
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
Uh oh! Now I have more valves hitting the pistons.

GTO_flycut.jpg
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
Car is back together. Time for some photo spamming.

Took both heads off to get them ported and milled .030. Dropped them off to get CNCd. Milling bumps up the compression to around 11.5:1 with new GM MLS head gaskets.
1819c9f0-8eb7-4490-8ee6-6024100a0fd5.jpg


Took the exhaust off to get the headers ceramic coated and the tips polished.
IMG_20130801_225212.jpg


Fly cut piston heads. That way the giant cam that's in the block won't cause the valves to hit the pistons due to the head milling.
GTO_flycut-1.jpg


While I waited for the heads to get ported/milled and the headers coated, I decided to get the JHP gauge pods from Australia.
GTO_Gauges3.jpg


Gauges installed. Had to cut a section out under the dash to clear the harness, but otherwise it was an easy install.
GTO_GP_Installed.jpg


Also decided to port the LS2 intake myself with a Dremel shaping bit followed by a lot of sanding. What good are ported heads when you have an LS2 intake? Spent a couple days on it and think I did a good job. Opened the runner width up from 0.95" to 1.05" at around 2" deep. Smoothed out all of the disjointed plastic edges where the intake layers were welded together.
GTO_Intake_Port.jpg


Ported head intake.
GTO_Intake_Port-1.jpg


Ported head exhaust.
GTO_Exhaust_Port.jpg


Driver side head and header back on. Showing the new BTR dual valve springs.
GTO_Heads_Driver.jpg


Head and header on the passenger side. The rockers and pushrods went on next. Don't have any photos of that. Went from 7.400" to 7.375" pushrods since the heads are now milled.
GTO_Heads_Pass.jpg
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
Satin aluminum ceramic coated header shown with that pesky steering rack. It wasn't too hard to work with given the multitude of helpful posts about dropping it and putting it back in place.
GTO_Header_Steering.jpg


The intake manifold and the rest of the top end put back on.
GTO_Complete_Driver.jpg


Passenger side complete.
GTO_Complete_Pass.jpg


DMS shaker air intake box, tube, and scoop put back on. Cut 1" around the the perimeter of the shaker flange since the cam that was put in last year caused it to hit the underside of the hood. Also painted the shaker box and tube while I was at it. Cleaned up everything during the whole process.
GTO_Engine_Completed_Side.jpg


GTO_Engine_Completed_Front.jpg


GTO_Front_Low.jpg


I was sweating right as I went to start it up. Paused, took a deep breath, and turned the key. It ran rough for a couple of seconds and then was totally smooth. No codes and no odd noises. The engine was running great! It did smell a bit odd, but I guess that was cleaner and other stuff burning off. I took it around the block and kept the throttle low since it required a retune. Changed the oil and flushed the coolant afterwards.

Had the car dyno tuned. It's at 446HP / 402TQ now. Pretty good gain. RunFile_001 is when I was mostly stock except for the shaker and the 3" SpinTech catback. RunFile_008 is with headers and cam. Runfile_011 is what I have now with the ported intake and heads.
GTO_DynoGraph.png


Installed a West Coast Speed front splitter. Took only an hour to install after picking it up from the paint shop.
GTO_Splitter1.jpg



GTO_Splitter3.jpg


GTO_Splitter4.jpg
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,821
3,620
136
Spent a lot of time cleaning everything under the hood. Also spent about 5 hours yesterday cleaning the outside. Used Zaino All-In-One cleaner polish followed by Zaino Z5 polish.