Lots and lots on the to do list- pointers appreciated.

Hayabusa Rider

Admin Emeritus & Elite Member
Jan 26, 2000
50,879
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The two big things are repairing a rusted steel door. I think I have that pretty much down but I'll be playing with a new Makita 7" angle grinder. Should be fun. Will rust treat, use an orbital sander on areas that are not rusted through, Bondo the bottom which has some holes after grinding and repainting with Valspar paint+ prime with an airless for a smooth finish.

Am I missing something?

Next is real PIA. An friend build a small back deck, about 10x10. Unfortunately he used solid oil paint and of course it's peeled to hell with most of the floor gone, but the side slats still intact. I've read a lot of reviews and am going to semi-transparent Defy Extreme but I need to remove absolutely every speck of paint. Given not go great health and it's just me I want to get this done quick, easy and fast (who wouldn't?).

What I have on hand-

Deck stripper
Paint tools (stripper, brushes etc)
Belt sander
Orbital sander
Corner sander
3100 PSI power washer
TSP (the real stuff, no environmental fucks given for this project)
The angle grinder which I'd probably be out of my mind to consider.

Also probably everything else under the sun when it comes to tools.


Any FYI's or experience appreciated.
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,973
6,338
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Screwed or nailed? Might be easier to pull the boards and flip them.

I've used Ben Moore solid color stain (oil) on the fence and really like it. It just fades, no peeling.

I hate painting but I hate the prep more.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
22,249
6,438
136
Rent a floor sander and have at it. Deck will look brand new and be perfectly flat.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
22,249
6,438
136
and a floor sander is 18" wide. I've done it on a redwood deck, took half a day and looked better than the day it was installed.
 

dullard

Elite Member
May 21, 2001
26,042
4,688
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going to semi-transparent Defy Extreme but I need to remove absolutely every speck of paint.
A few years back, my wife and I took weeks preparing a ~10 year old wood fence (over 250 feet long, and we have to do both sides in many areas) and some wood stairs. We did the whole thing properly: scraping, grinding, sanding, many chemical treatments as recommended by the stain manufacturer, etc. Then we used a solid stain with a 30 year warranty. Sadly, that was a bad move. The wood was just too far gone to last. The wood itself keeps peeling away in layers, taking the solid stain with it.

Rather than spend weeks scraping, grinding, and sanding everything off, we left the solid stain in place and just put a semi-transparent stain of the same color as the solid stain over the combination of solid stain + bare wood. The effect actually looks good. Just like normal wood would have lighter and darker patches in the rings, the stain now has lighter and darker patches. Essentially we now have a solid stain that looks like real wood.

Then every other year, we spray on a new coat of the semi-transparent stain for the new bits of wood that have been exposed.

You might not be able to get the same effect, but if you can, it is a lot easier than removing absolutely every speck that you have on that porch.