• We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.

Lost 2 computer for a while, due to power out, and a bunch of F@H points

Markfw

Moderator Emeritus, Elite Member
Back up now. I think a power strip died, and when my new on comes, the 2 computers will be back up. My ppd dropped from 41 million in F@H to 17 million. Should recover in a few days when the new power strip comes.
 
Well, not exactly... I plugged both boxes in elsewhere, and it blew the circuit breaker. The water cooled 2990wx is the problem box, and it loosing water, so I think I am done with water cooling... I will order a heat sink for it, and dump all the stuff. Anybody interested in a bunch or water cooling stuff ? for TR4/SP3 socket. 2 water blocks for the CPU, 2 rads, one pump. and fittings. PM me if interested.

@aigomorla , sorry I am done with water cooling....
 
I have a PSU with the same problem Mark, plug it in and pop goes the weasel, err circuit breaker. And it too happened after a power failure. I should open that PSU up some day soon and look for any obvious damage. Almost has to be something simple, would blow the internal fuse if it were actually the electronic bits gone bad... edit: most likely candidate is the switch has melted and has a short..

Edit2: Everything from the power inlet, to the switch, to the 'motherboard' of the PSU looks fine, and checks out fine with an Ohm meter. It died while on 220V....plugging it in now to a cheap 120V power strip with a breaker...flipping the switch in 3, 2, 1....hmm, the breaker didn't trip, and I imagined a tiny momentary spark at the back side of the power cord inlet... Great, now I have a disassembled PSU in my lap that is CHARGED. lol Let's carefully put this into a box and play with it again in 20 hours or so....
 
Last edited:
I now have 3 other computers that are giving me problems... This may be a lot worse than I thought. I even had an EPYC box, reboot into the wrong OS
 
Any experienced electrical people out there ? I appear to have a bad outlet, possibly was shorted once or ?? Any chance that can affect the whole circuit ? It works fine on the circuit until I put a load on a different outlet, then the breaker blows.
 
Any experienced electrical people out there ? I appear to have a bad outlet, possibly was shorted once or ?? Any chance that can affect the whole circuit ? It works fine on the circuit until I put a load on a different outlet, then the breaker blows.
What kind of breaker is it? Standard breaker, GFIC, or AFCI?
It's rare for old style breakers to go bad. While AFCI breakers are outstanding at generating a never ending stream of trouble calls.
Be sure to flip the breaker all the way off before resetting it. Check for other loads on that circuit and unplug them. If you're still having problems at that point you should call an electrician.
 
The entire breaker box was upgraded and replaced 2 years ago. But the outlet is original and scorched. I will try and get a pic.
 
A pic? No need, if it is scorched. Replace it for $3 and 30 minutes of your time. Just, you know, make sure it is 'off' first. 😉 Make sure your wiring inside the box does not show signs of melted insulation while you are at it.

edit: Wall outlets are well know to be a major source of air leakage in a home, thus this 'breathing' tends to allow household dust to collect inside the outlet box. If you see excess dust build up, you may want to check other high-load outlets as well for dust.
 
It can. It also serves as a kindling source if any arcing is present. Chance of occurrence of either rather small and not generally a cause for concern.
 
get a 20 amp breaker, and run #12 wire, to a commercial 30 amp outlet. Problem solved. 😀
 
Last edited:
get a 30 amp breaker, and run #12 wire, to a commercial 30 amp outlet. Problem solved.
Or do like RedPandaMining did in his new "mining barn", and get some "SpaceGoats power meters w/30A 240V receptacles (twist-lock)". I guess the guy sells them? They give a constant readout of various aspects of the power, including current wattage / amperage draw, etc. Pretty neat-looking.
 
well, if you do use 30 amp then go with a #10 wire. that 3400 watts. Could power at least 3 or 4 systems with that. If there is room in the box, just add more breakers... get 20 amp ones and run conduit back to the computer rooms ... Just remember, the longer the runs the thicker the cables you need... Don't burn down your home!
 
Or do like RedPandaMining did in his new "mining barn", and get some "SpaceGoats power meters w/30A 240V receptacles (twist-lock)". I guess the guy sells them? They give a constant readout of various aspects of the power, including current wattage / amperage draw, etc. Pretty neat-looking.

All you need to do is times amps by volts to get your watts, and if you have like a kill-a-watt meter, you can see the wattage consumption. Add up the computers on the circuit and keep it under 10% of whatever breaker amperage you got in the fuse box, and you should be good, if not, you'll just trip the breaker and you'll have to move equipment around or add more another breaker.
 
Nope, P=IV, or any algebraic variation thereof (such as I=P/V, or V=P/I). (where P=Power, in Watts, I=current in Amps, and V=Voltage)
 
Ok, thought their was more to it, tried Googling it and it wasn't entirely clear (they kept going on about algebra to work it out 😛), although I did see mentioned that as long as the I and V values are rms (which they are), then P=VxI is valid. Except perhaps in inductive circuits?? I don't know....
 
For AC voltage isn't their an extra part to that formula? I have a feeling that formula is only right for DC voltage.....


DC or AC, doesn't matter, it's all the same formula -- Ohm's Law (E = IR). works for both. Alternating current is for long transmissions minimizing power loss along the way. Where DC is mostly run off batteries for short cable runs.
 
DC or AC, doesn't matter, it's all the same formula -- Ohm's Law (E = IR). works for both. Alternating current is for long transmissions minimizing power loss along the way. Where DC is mostly run off batteries for short cable runs.
AC is in the house and work places too, at least in the UK, and Europe AFAIK.
 
Back
Top