Looking for some help screwing something (no not that kind of screwing!)

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purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,452
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You'll probably have to order from some place like McMaster.

The PEM would be inserted into your hinge's holes, which would allow you to screw in from the bottom of the base.

View attachment 32990
Hmmm okay that picture makes more sense. I am assuming I'd have to get one that fits the holes specifically? I also don't know the thickness of the hinge and base. I guess I could take a tape measure to it though lol. It's thin.
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,391
1,780
126
You'll probably have to order from some place like McMaster.

The PEM would be inserted into your hinge's holes, which would allow you to screw in from the bottom of the base.
That's essentially the same concept I had with a single strip of metal with taps....Looks like the teeth in the insert accomplish the friction required to tighten the fastener. Just good if you can get the perfect sized bit to countersink a flat head screw so it's flush...you may still want to get some felt or foam to cover the protruding metal so you don't mark up floors.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,452
6,297
126
Hmmm so I just noticed something looking at the manual.


Check out page 74 of the PDF. It has some pics of the pedal from different angles.

If you look at the top right image you can see the 3 screw heads under the pedal.

Then if you look at the one right below it, and zoom in, you can actually see there is no extra metal plate on the hinge like the one I showed in the video above.

It does look like there is "something" on the hinge side of things though. Perhaps that is one of those PEM things you are referring to?

It sucks the part number for the screws and what not aren't listed in there. A lot of the times they are in the manuals for these games.
 

sdifox

No Lifer
Sep 30, 2005
98,725
17,213
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Hmmm okay that picture makes more sense. I am assuming I'd have to get one that fits the holes specifically? I also don't know the thickness of the hinge and base. I guess I could take a tape measure to it though lol. It's thin.

You don't have a Vernier caliper?
 

Scarpozzi

Lifer
Jun 13, 2000
26,391
1,780
126
Hmmm okay that picture makes more sense. I am assuming I'd have to get one that fits the holes specifically? I also don't know the thickness of the hinge and base. I guess I could take a tape measure to it though lol. It's thin.
It's likely machine threaded to spec, so you could measure the opening and figure that out. If you were going to get a tap to thread your own, you'd have to go with a large enough screw to do the job without allowing the head to pass through the hole while being as flush as possible. I suggest you stick with 316 stainless steel machine screws and don't get the cheap Zinc-coated ones. 316 stainless will be more rust resistant. The zinc coated fasteners will rust.

Take the part to a hardware store with loose fasteners and see what size works best for the holes (width). Once you get that, you can figure out what size nut you would need on the other end.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,452
6,297
126
It's likely machine threaded to spec, so you could measure the opening and figure that out. If you were going to get a tap to thread your own, you'd have to go with a large enough screw to do the job without allowing the head to pass through the hole while being as flush as possible. I suggest you stick with 316 stainless steel machine screws and don't get the cheap Zinc-coated ones. 316 stainless will be more rust resistant. The zinc coated fasteners will rust.

Take the part to a hardware store with loose fasteners and see what size works best for the holes (width). Once you get that, you can figure out what size nut you would need on the other end.
When you are saying tap, is that the tool where you can make your own threads?

But would that even work if it is this really thin metal hinge? Like is there enough thickness to even make a thread?

I have never used these tools but was just looking at "tap and die set" and it appears that is what it's for?
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,452
6,297
126
Construction adhesive?
Would something like this:


Keep a nut stuck to metal tight enough that I could thread a screw through it and it holds up and won't loosen up?

I guess I could always try it out on another piece of metal first too.

Like ideally that would be the easiest solution.
 

mxnerd

Diamond Member
Jul 6, 2007
6,799
1,103
126
Would something like this:


Keep a nut stuck to metal tight enough that I could thread a screw through it and it holds up and won't loosen up?

I guess I could always try it out on another piece of metal first too.

Like ideally that would be the easiest solution.

Yep.


I used only Loctite Premium (or probably 3X, can't remember) constructive adhesive to glue my loosened 3-ft tall garden gate brick column to the concrete ground without anything else, and the column sticks to the ground completely secure and won't move a bit. Don't know if it will work with metal the same way.

Remove the rust but make the steel surface course with course sandpaper, glue it together, give it a day or two to cure completely.
 
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Paperdoc

Platinum Member
Aug 17, 2006
2,435
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I really think soldering would NOT work. Solder rarely bonds well to steel, and that is what the nut would be. Same goes for the mild steel or iron that is the hinge plate. That's why I suggested epoxy glue.

Sheet aluminum, maybe. The problem is that most versions of that material are relatively soft and easy to work with, whereas that is exactly what you do not need for the threads in it that you would have to make (with a tap tool) for the bolt to turn into. The threads would strip too easily if you tighten too much. That is why sheet steel would be better for that plan, or captive steel nuts as I suggested.
 

herm0016

Diamond Member
Feb 26, 2005
8,498
1,115
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holy heck. not a lot of mechanics in here.

bolt inserted from the pedal side. drop them in the holes on the base. slide an open end wrench behind the pedal, tighten the nut on the bottom. you could use a star style lock washer on the top, this will help hold it, but you will still need the open end wrench. looks like that black plate on the bottom could come off to give you access? it seems like it would lift up the 1/4 in or so you need for a small open end wrench from the side or end.

i would just weld some nuts on the pedal side. but i have a welder and the skill to use it.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,452
6,297
126
holy heck. not a lot of mechanics in here.

bolt inserted from the pedal side. drop them in the holes on the base. slide an open end wrench behind the pedal, tighten the nut on the bottom. you could use a star style lock washer on the top, this will help hold it, but you will still need the open end wrench. looks like that black plate on the bottom could come off to give you access? it seems like it would lift up the 1/4 in or so you need for a small open end wrench from the side or end.
That is simply not possible as I mentioned in the OP, that I won't have access to behind the hinge.

I'm going to try the adhesive route I think with that construction adhesive.

I will get some coarse sand paper when I go to HD to get the rust off and make the steel part rougher to hopefully help with the bond.
 

purbeast0

No Lifer
Sep 13, 2001
53,452
6,297
126
Well this ended up being easier than I expected. All it took was 3 things

#10-32 3/8" screw
#10-32 nut
#10 internsl tooth lock washer

Put the screw head inside the pedal and washer/nut on outside. Was tricky to get it started threading but once i did it worked.

83BnwqH.jpg



Bought all this other stuff i can now return lol.