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Looking for recommendations on a new TV for living room...50 inches ++

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I think it's pretty cool, especially on the VT25. Also, there really is no way getting around it. Most, if not all top end TV's come with 3d standard now. So, like it or not; it's part of the package.

the price of the GT25 is a grand less than the VT25. Aside from a couple of features like skype and others that I read what is the huge difference in price over 4 inches?
 
I think it's pretty cool, especially on the VT25. Also, there really is no way getting around it. Most, if not all top end TV's come with 3d standard now. So, like it or not; it's part of the package.

Yep. If you want the best 2D set, it will come with 3D. Think of it as just a bonus. If you don't like, don't use it.
 
the price of the GT25 is a grand less than the VT25. Aside from a couple of features like skype and others that I read what is the huge difference in price over 4 inches?

The VT is a much better overall set. The reason I say that is because it has a 96Hz refresh rate which enables it to do 1080p/24 properly. That in itself is a BIG plus over the GT series. Not to mention it is 4" larger.
 
The VT is a much better overall set. The reason I say that is because it has a 96Hz refresh rate which enables it to do 1080p/24 properly. That in itself is a BIG plus over the GT series. Not to mention it is 4" larger.

Exactly; and trust me OP, those 4 inches make a difference. It doesn't seem like it would, but the extra screen real estate is worth it. At least, in my opinion.
 
I pulled the trigger on this tv and got a decent deal...

got it shipped to my house by Friday with a 5 year warranty for 2170...can't wait to see what it does!

Congrats on your purchase!

Make sure to run the break-in slides located in the link below. Also, D-Nice on avsforums is a highly regarded calibrator, and has been generous enough to share calibration settings for the TV you just brought. Make sure to read through at least the first few pages of that thread (or read all 139 haha) so as to understand what D-Nice (and also LarryInRI) are saying/doing in that thread.

I believe the slides are meant to be put on a USB stick and plugged directly into the TV to run, so if you don't have a USB stick, now would be the time to get one. Good luck and happy viewing!

The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread

Chuck
 
I pulled the trigger on this tv and got a decent deal...

got it shipped to my house by Friday with a 5 year warranty for 2170...can't wait to see what it does!

Congrats! I ordered one from Amazon. I was watching like a hawk when they dropped it down to $2009. It should be here on Fri. I do think it's a great price and I'm sure I'll be real happy with my purchase. Make sure to come back Leeland and tell us how you like it.
 
Congrats on your purchase!

Make sure to run the break-in slides located in the link below. Also, D-Nice on avsforums is a highly regarded calibrator, and has been generous enough to share calibration settings for the TV you just brought. Make sure to read through at least the first few pages of that thread (or read all 139 haha) so as to understand what D-Nice (and also LarryInRI) are saying/doing in that thread.

I believe the slides are meant to be put on a USB stick and plugged directly into the TV to run, so if you don't have a USB stick, now would be the time to get one. Good luck and happy viewing!

The Official 2010 Panasonic Settings/Issues Thread

Chuck

I will spend the weekend studying that thread thanks for the link man...I had found comments about burn in.

Does that mean you basically plug in a thumb drive with those images and run it for 100 hours straight before actual use?


Congrats! I ordered one from Amazon. I was watching like a hawk when they dropped it down to $2009. It should be here on Fri. I do think it's a great price and I'm sure I'll be real happy with my purchase. Make sure to come back Leeland and tell us how you like it.

I can't wait...it should be delivered on Monday and in our new construction the cable is getting installed on Tuesday...
 
I believe from just very quickly scanning some comments on that thread in the first page or three, that you are to set your set to Picture mode, the pic view to 30 seconds (so it sounds like by default it will not be set to 30 seconds), set the settings of Picture mode to whatever D-Nice has there for the 100 hours of slides (you might want to write down the original settings of Picture mode so you can revert back after 100 hours), and then after the 100 hours, do whatever else he says (likely change to a different mode and his custom settings).

You are not supposed to watch other content on the TV will you are doing the 100 hours of slides.

Personally, I'd make sure it's running the latest firmware (via either wired update or freshly FAT32 formatted USB ((unless Panasonic says different))) before doing anything. Then start the D-Nice stuff.

And Yes, to answer your question, you can just go for 100 hours straight.

Make sure if you break the 100 hours you keep track, and also, that you don't watch anything that leaves static images on the screen (like the program channel monograms in the lower right corner, or 4:3 content in 4:3 mode, or games, or whatever is not full screen w/o a monogram or ticker bar); basically, if at all possible, just do the 100 hours with the slides in D-Nice's post. D-Nice is a top calibrator, whatever he says to do, I'd do it.

Read his first few posts in that thread a few times so you know exactly what he's saying...

Happy viewing!

P.S. If you need to buy HDMI cables, you want cables that are "High Speed" aka HDMI 1.4a; very good place to get them is www.monoprice.com Don't go to WorstBuy and buy a $80 HDMI cable.

Chuck
 
I believe from just very quickly scanning some comments on that thread in the first page or three, that you are to set your set to Picture mode, the pic view to 30 seconds (so it sounds like by default it will not be set to 30 seconds), set the settings of Picture mode to whatever D-Nice has there for the 100 hours of slides (you might want to write down the original settings of Picture mode so you can revert back after 100 hours), and then after the 100 hours, do whatever else he says (likely change to a different mode and his custom settings).

You are not supposed to watch other content on the TV will you are doing the 100 hours of slides.

Personally, I'd make sure it's running the latest firmware (via either wired update or freshly FAT32 formatted USB ((unless Panasonic says different))) before doing anything. Then start the D-Nice stuff.

And Yes, to answer your question, you can just go for 100 hours straight.

Make sure if you break the 100 hours you keep track, and also, that you don't watch anything that leaves static images on the screen (like the program channel monograms in the lower right corner, or 4:3 content in 4:3 mode, or games, or whatever is not full screen w/o a monogram or ticker bar); basically, if at all possible, just do the 100 hours with the slides in D-Nice's post. D-Nice is a top calibrator, whatever he says to do, I'd do it.

Read his first few posts in that thread a few times so you know exactly what he's saying...

Happy viewing!

P.S. If you need to buy HDMI cables, you want cables that are "High Speed" aka HDMI 1.4a; very good place to get them is www.monoprice.com Don't go to WorstBuy and buy a $80 HDMI cable.

Chuck

I just got down with a beer and started reading that thread...and it sounds just like you described it.

As for the cables I dialed all of them in at monoprice...it was funny when I stopped in to a high end electronics store and was viewing the sets before I bought this one...

The manager comes over and we talked...he was nice but very smug. Asked what I was looking for and the convo eventually went to cables and if I had them...tested them...where I got them.

I said monoprice and he just grimmest at me saying that you can't replace quality cables 'i.e. Monster Cable'. I couldn't say anything but smile.
 
Yeah, it is pretty sick when you think about how much people overpay for cables. What's even worse is how cheap MonoPrice is selling them to us for, they're still making a profit obviously, so in reality, the cables are probably 30-200% cheaper than they are on MonoPrice...makes it even more unreal people paying so much for cables at like BesyBuy.

And yeah, I've had salespeople tell me things like that there too...I just ask them how their cable is going to make better 1 and 0's come out the other end. They never have an answer and just go away...gezus... 🙂

Chuck
 
Exactly; and trust me OP, those 4 inches make a difference. It doesn't seem like it would, but the extra screen real estate is worth it. At least, in my opinion.

So if you were going to choose between a 63" set that does not do 3D vs a 58" set that does to replace a 62" DLP you think it would be significantly noticeable?
 
yeah my hdmi 1.4a cable was $2 lol. how much for a 1.2? $2 and a 1.3? $2 - just let me change the label on the package.

i'd definitely pick larger size Linflas - it was the best choice i made upgrading from my westy 42w2 to 60PX950. i can see the 1080 now 😉
 
I just got down with a beer and started reading that thread...and it sounds just like you described it.

As for the cables I dialed all of them in at monoprice...it was funny when I stopped in to a high end electronics store and was viewing the sets before I bought this one...

The manager comes over and we talked...he was nice but very smug. Asked what I was looking for and the convo eventually went to cables and if I had them...tested them...where I got them.

I said monoprice and he just grimmest at me saying that you can't replace quality cables 'i.e. Monster Cable'. I couldn't say anything but smile.

Monster Cables are actually better than Monoprice's cables. Are they overpriced, yes.
However, they have a better feel to them and are much more flexible when it comes to running cables through a wire management system. But if you want a great quality cable at a good price, BlueJeansCables get my vote. Monoprice cables aren't bad, they're just not great IMO. They're basic cables at a good price. Which usually falls in line with what most people are after anyway.
 
So if you were going to choose between a 63" set that does not do 3D vs a 58" set that does to replace a 62" DLP you think it would be significantly noticeable?

What are you on about? :\ The OP was talking 50 vs. 54; but thanks for your twisted logic.
 
What are you on about? :\ The OP was talking 50 vs. 54; but thanks for your twisted logic.

How about you crawl back under that bridge. 🙄 The OP was actually talking about any size 50 and up and you responded that 50-54 was a significant increase. If you don't understand the relationship between that and my question then why not just ignore my question rather than be insulting and obnoxious?
 
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How about you crawl back under that bridge. 🙄 The OP was actually talking about any size 50 and up and you responded that 50-54 was a significant increase. If you don't understand the relationship between that and my question then why not just ignore my question rather than be insulting and obnoxious?

Excuse me Mr. Tough guy. I dont want to break the news to you, but the OP already chose his TV; and I was one of the people helping him in this thread. Also, for the record he was comparing the 50" GT25 vs. the 54" VT25. Read post 51.
So, here comes Mr. let me throw my 2 cents in the thread after the fact. Ok, buddy. Whatever floats your boat. 🙄
 
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So the TV is being delivered today...I am sitting here waiting for it...I planned on unboxing it tonight and firing it up and trying to dig into D-Nice's break in procedure.

Based on that link provided is it assumed that you:

#1 get the slides, load on SD card.
#2 set the TV to picture mode and those custom settings he has listed in post #1
#3 get into the service menu WRITE DOWN THE ORIGINAL VALUES and then set the values to what he has listed for the V25 (it mentions two different matrixes)...does that mean I have to have two diffeent sources hooked up in order to access these menu's?

Note: These offsets must be entered for both Color matrixes. You access the different matrixes by using a 1080i/p signal for the HD matrix and 480i/p signal for the SD matrix.

#4 once the service menu settings are complete return back to the slide show and run for minimum 100 hours...

If you indeed do need to have two different component sources HD and SD how does it know?

If you don't have a HD source does that mean you can't modify those settings in the service menu?
 
Excuse me Mr. Tough guy. I dont want to break the news to you, but the OP already chose his TV; and I was one of the people helping him in this thread. Also, for the record he was comparing the 50" GT25 vs. the 54" VT25. Read post 51.
So, here comes Mr. let me throw my 2 cents in the thread after the fact. Ok, buddy. Whatever floats your boat. 🙄

Tough guy? How about you read post 64 to see how to provide a civilized response instead of acting the part of a rude internet bad ass. Once again if the question seemed irrelevant to you why not just ignore it rather than post an insulting response? All I did was ask a simple question in a thread that was on a similar topic rather than starting a new thread, if you have a problem with that it is your problem, not mine.

leeland, enjoy your new set, I won't carry this on with FIRESTORM007 any further in your thread.
 
leeland:

I'd use a freshly formatted USB stick, or a wired Ethernet connection to the TV, and make sure you've got the newest firmware on there first. Then, once you've got that accomplished, start D-Nice's stuff.

I don't know the answer to your question though...might be good to create an avsforum.com account now (if you don't already have one) and ask prior to starting.

Chuck
 
leeland:

I'd use a freshly formatted USB stick, or a wired Ethernet connection to the TV, and make sure you've got the newest firmware on there first. Then, once you've got that accomplished, start D-Nice's stuff.

I don't know the answer to your question though...might be good to create an avsforum.com account now (if you don't already have one) and ask prior to starting.

Chuck

I stopped the image slide show to see if I could find a menu that listed the firmware but couldn't find anything specific...

I downloaded firmware 3.0 to a SD card and it gave an error 0004 which means it is apparently at the latest firmware...maybe not the 3.5 firmware that does something for Avatar...I don't know if I should load that one or not...doesn't have much info on their webpage about what it is for outside of Avatar.

Also I did get things clarified...apparently all you need to do is the settings for the photo viewer that D-nice posted in his first post...then load the SD card images and walk away for 100 hours...

THEN apparently it looks like you can do the service mode tweaks but that is another chore after getting through the images for a 100 hours 7 down and only 93 more to go
 
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I'm not even sure what the latest firmware is...too bad you can hook the TV up to the Internet, see if it'd just go out by itself and get the latest version of itself.

So you didn't have to change the picture interval to 30 seconds, it already came defaulted liked that?

And I hear you on the time...I burned in our Samsung for a little over 200 hours before I let my dad have an unsupervised crack at it. He likes to watch 4:3 programming all the time, and since I don't like it stretched, I've got the TV on screen fit, which displays it properly...which means black bars. I cannot imagine the image retention that'd be going on had I just hooked it up and let him have at it...... 😱:hmm:

Chuck
 
100 hours burn in, break in, is just a.....................................................................

a waste of 100 hours of electricity and time that you could be watching the TV.

I have 2 Panasonic plasmas and neither one was "broken" in and neither one has any image retention issues even after 4 hours or more of playing my Xbox or my mom watching 6 hours of 4:3 letterbox stations.

Urban myth strikes again.
 
I broke my Pioneer 151 in. Was a good use of my time in my utility room. We had a panny that burnt in a while ago. When I got my next plasma (5 years later) after owning a few LCDs, I figured I could wait a week to use it.

Didn't read all the arguments in this thread, did anyone come to a conclusion? Is there a better TV yet than the Pioneer 141/151?
 
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