I'd definitely suggest a UPS - I'd say one with 700VA (about 450 Watts) would be good for your system - give you a fair amount of uptime before having to shut down. AVR is a good idea for those whose PSU lacks the top end features of full-range voltage compensation and active Power Factor Correction. Watch your nearby big box store ads (including Staples, OfficeDepot, BestBuy, CompUSA, Circ.City, MicroCenter, Fry's etc. etc.) as UPSes are often on sale plus you'll save a lot on shipping. Good brands are Powerware (a merger of several, old-line backup makers or divisions: Best Power, Exide, Sola etc.) which was recently snapped up by Eaton (one of those huge, faceless conglomerates out there), APC and Tripp Lite - decent brands are CyberPower and maybe Opti (but I'm not that familiar with them). Buy from a company that specializes in power protection - specifically avoid Belkin power products if you value your computer system.
. The mfr's say not to plug a UPS into anything but the wall because devices (mainly MOVs) within the surge strips can fail in ways that will cause the UPS to go to battery unnecessarily, or the switch on it could accidentally get turned off, again causing a switch to battery power, but I plug mine into another surge supressor anyway for an added layer of protection as well as for extra outlets - you couldn't believe the rat's nest of power cords and Wall Warts I have. Guess what ended up not being connected to a battery-backed outlet when the first power dropout happened after I installed the new UPS?.. Both the backup and surge suppressor strip are by CyberPower. I figure that most UPSes also have MOVs inside them that can fail in the same way - six o' one/half-dozen of the other. I also have a plain power strip (no active parts inside) on the downstream side - I know, I just love living dangerously.

What's a battery backup for, anyhoo? I turn my system off when I'm gone from the house anyway.
. Anecdotal evidence: Anyone I've talked into using a good UPS has had far less hardware problems in general than those whom I couldn't convince...
Tip: You can get a Kill A Watt meter from Newegg and elsewhere that will tell you the actual power usage of your system so you can accurately size your UPS. I choose a UPS with 50% more output capacity than the reading the KAW gives me. My system uses about 200W from the wall, so I bought a 300 or so Watt unit (about 550VA).
.bh.