- Apr 28, 2004
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I just found a kenwood KA-2000 in the dumpster at my apartment and I rescued it just before the rain and I have to say at only 13WPC (I think I am not totally sure) it sounds better than my "New" Onkyo receiver (For Stereo Music that is since it is not a Surround receiver). The only thing that was wrong with it was it was missing the speaker terminal block there was just two wires sticking out of the back (Blue and a yellow and I figured out that the Chassis was the audio ground
I will be set now only if I could find a proper speaker block as the one I got from R$ fits but is not long enough to fully screw down to both screws. I got it working for now just need to clean the dials because I get crackling when I move then and the switches are doing the same thing.
Also I hope I rewired the speaker plate right please tell me if I am wrong
Yellow = right
Blue = Left
I used a short piece of 18 AWG jumper wire to jump the two Negative terminals to a point on the chassis (I just crimped a ring terminal to the wire and then when I put the cover on. (I put it through that screw on the inside of the chassis)
Oh and if anyone has any old audio equipment be very and I emphasize VERY careful when messing around the inside
epically while plugged in to a live outlet (No Polarized plug) and I think there is a way the chassis could become
electrically hot Don't know how though but I do remember that old TV's had what was called a hot chassis I don't know if Vintage amps are the same way
Two questions OK Four
1. why do the two channels share the same audio ground?
2. How do I fix the crackling/popping when I turn the volume/Bass/Treble knobs
3. How to I fix the stereo/Mono Switch I can tap the switch and I hear crackling and one side gets louder (Right now I have it set to stereo and I have it so it is working OK for now but if I move it at all it will do that again)
4. I am actually using it right now with a pair of Insignia Speakers from Best Buy (To replace my crappy Logitech Z640's with a blown sub) and even with the cheap speakers it sound awesome (To me as I am not an Audiophile) I was just wondering why the power cord is so thin (SPT-1 20AWG and it about 10 FT Long on top of being thin) it only draws about 60 - 120 Watts and has a 1A fuse protecting it. I only say 120 Watts because that is the maximum allowed only if you plug something into the 60 Watt switched outlet (Which is also non polarized so nothing new will fit into it) I know it has a fuse protecting it
I always thought the Minimum wire gauge was 18AWG so the OCPD (Over Current Protection Device) would be able to trip a breaker or blow a fuse with out making the wire THE fuse and possibly causing a fire (Provided back in the day there was not all greenies in the fuse box or worse a penny behind the fuse) I know I am safe but I was just wondering why it was done that way (I Live in a newer APT Complex with breakers and GFCI/AFCI Protection so I am not worried about using this)
Thanks for reading my post and thanks in advance for any reply's
I will be set now only if I could find a proper speaker block as the one I got from R$ fits but is not long enough to fully screw down to both screws. I got it working for now just need to clean the dials because I get crackling when I move then and the switches are doing the same thing.
Also I hope I rewired the speaker plate right please tell me if I am wrong
Yellow = right
Blue = Left
I used a short piece of 18 AWG jumper wire to jump the two Negative terminals to a point on the chassis (I just crimped a ring terminal to the wire and then when I put the cover on. (I put it through that screw on the inside of the chassis)
Oh and if anyone has any old audio equipment be very and I emphasize VERY careful when messing around the inside
epically while plugged in to a live outlet (No Polarized plug) and I think there is a way the chassis could become
electrically hot Don't know how though but I do remember that old TV's had what was called a hot chassis I don't know if Vintage amps are the same way
Two questions OK Four
1. why do the two channels share the same audio ground?
2. How do I fix the crackling/popping when I turn the volume/Bass/Treble knobs
3. How to I fix the stereo/Mono Switch I can tap the switch and I hear crackling and one side gets louder (Right now I have it set to stereo and I have it so it is working OK for now but if I move it at all it will do that again)
4. I am actually using it right now with a pair of Insignia Speakers from Best Buy (To replace my crappy Logitech Z640's with a blown sub) and even with the cheap speakers it sound awesome (To me as I am not an Audiophile) I was just wondering why the power cord is so thin (SPT-1 20AWG and it about 10 FT Long on top of being thin) it only draws about 60 - 120 Watts and has a 1A fuse protecting it. I only say 120 Watts because that is the maximum allowed only if you plug something into the 60 Watt switched outlet (Which is also non polarized so nothing new will fit into it) I know it has a fuse protecting it
I always thought the Minimum wire gauge was 18AWG so the OCPD (Over Current Protection Device) would be able to trip a breaker or blow a fuse with out making the wire THE fuse and possibly causing a fire (Provided back in the day there was not all greenies in the fuse box or worse a penny behind the fuse) I know I am safe but I was just wondering why it was done that way (I Live in a newer APT Complex with breakers and GFCI/AFCI Protection so I am not worried about using this)
Thanks for reading my post and thanks in advance for any reply's