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LOLyourFACE's IMPORTANT DECISION!!.. How about Mazda?

What is the whole buying procedure I should be aware of? What things do I need to know about myself before heading off to the dealers? (credit history, bank loan stuff?)

I really need to know what I should be aware of/how the car buying procedure is done etc... please help
 
Best advice I can give you is this: Wait until you absolutly NEED a new car. During this time, save as much money as you can and use that money to...
a.) Purchase a car using cash
b.) Put down a large down payment for a loan (25% at least).

This will save you TONS of money in interest. Good luck.
 
bring a calculator with you, the fancier looking the better. they positively HATE it when you go over their figures again. you'd be surprised how many "mistakes" they make with percentages.
 
LOLYourFace I have to say I'm worried because going in not knowing exactly what's going to go on means that the dealer can lead you along and basically you're his pet 😛 I'd HIGHLY recommend going and checking out whichever cars you want and leave all of your credit history and everything related to it (bank statements, pay stubs etc.) at HOME, so that NO MATTER what the lying POS dealer says you can't buy the car today. If he knows you're set to buy one today - and even if he doesn't but you know it - then you're going to get a worse deal.
 
Always be prepared to walk away if you don't like their deal... never try to convince yourself that it's worth anything more than you originally decide after your own research. Never accept free oil changes, service, and such to make up for price differences.

Bargain like you might be considering leasing or financing, then drop the payment in full after they give you the price that you want.

Basically, I'm repeating what's been in a lot of "how to buy a car from a dealer" threads we've had on AT.
 
also another Q.. Altima's been my dream car and they were remodelled @ 2002.

1. If I were to go out to get Altima 2.5 SL 2002, would they still have it as brand new or preowned? I'm sort of confused now.
2. Would Accord SE 2001-02 would be a better deal in terms of money?
3. Can I get that Altima for 17K~ out the door?

What woud be the pros and cons of both cars? I'd love to get an altima instead of an accord.. because they're both solid cars yet altima shines bit better in style...

KokomoGST. You're right. I think I'm gonna go out there and do some test driving without giving any insider info. I mean, I Am allowed to do that right? I Will be buying a car in this month afterall..

please answer the above Q btw..
 
Make sure you have some money to put down.

Get your financing pre-approved from a bank or credit union.

Do NOT allow the dealership to run your credit, unless you don't have financing available.

Know your credit history and fix any inaccuracies. Low credit score = high interest rates.

Know what a fair price is for the car you're looking at.

MOST IMPORTANTLY: Be prepared to walk out of the dealership if they won't negotiate.
 
I wouldn't get a 2k2 Altima 2.5... the 3.5 is a way better engine from what I've read... out of the 2 honestly I would probably go with the Accord.
if there was a 3.5 SE in there I'd go for the Alty.
 
Originally posted by: Yield
I wouldn't get a 2k2 Altima 2.5... the 3.5 is a way better engine from what I've read... out of the 2 honestly I would probably go with the Accord.
if there was a 3.5 SE in there I'd go for the Alty.

yea but isn't altima go 175hp for 2.5 SL? as opposed to Accord's usual 150 for SE model?
 
Honestly, if I was looking at an Altima, I'd check out buying from a car rental agency. I know most people HATE buying a used rental car because they're worried about abuse. I have a Budget Rent-A-Car in my town, and I have driven two Altimas there, and they were in GREAT shape. No damage to the interior, paint in perfect condition, etc. Not to mention that they have the remined balance of the factory warranty. A 4-banger usually goes for around 16k. Sure, they have about 20k mile son all of them, but they drive perfectly.
 
With the way most idiots drive today and maintain their car's I'm kinda scared to buy used.

Pre-approved financing is the way to go, only negotiate at the dealership, don't worry about *their* financing.
 
Don't get an Altima 3.5SE. It'll cost you over $20K even for a used before tax. You should really go all over town to find the perfect car for perfect price. Don't just go to 1 or 2 dealers. Spend at least 1 or 2 weeks looking for the car. A used Altima 2.5 can be had for under $17K after tax, you just need to look hard into it.
 
How to buy a car (or any other big ticket item for that matter):

- NEVER fall in love with a single car. There are plenty of others just like it that can be had elsewhere.

- NEVER get emotionally involved in the buying process. As soon as you feel your emotions get involved, walk away from the deal, you are open to being screwed. This is extremely important and is the #1 way that car dealers stroke people over. Seriously. Hear my words of wisdom after 10 years in sales. The 2 most powerful sales techniques are (1) the "Harm 'n' Flip" which involves telling the potential buyer first why they probably couldn't get the product elsewhere and then second why they can get it there, and (2) the "Take Away," where the sales person asserts a position of strength in the transaction by appearing that he no longer wants to sell the product to the customer. Both of these are very emotional sales closes. Beware compliments as well as "harms," they are meant to throw you off guard and make you feel slightly conceited and comfortable.

- Know exactly what it is you want to buy BEFORE you buy. This is crucial to car buying. Do not let the dealer decide for you because they will try to put you in their worst selling car for top price. Research, research, research. Sitting down at the dealership is the LAST step to car buying. Before you decide to negotiate price at a dealership, you should already know EXACTLY what you plan on buying, right down to the make, model, color, options, and (most importantly) price. The internet is an amazing research deal. I strongly recommend pricing the car out on the manufacturers' website, checking out Edmunds.com (their TMV price is the MOST you want to pay, not the least, I got my last car for $500 under their TMV), and contacting car buying services like Carsdirect.com (unlike most internet car buying services, Carsdirect will let you price out and option the car in advance, and their target price is very indicative of the best price for that car in your area).

- Never be afraid to walk away. Or to be rude for that matter. As the customer, you are the boss. I'm not saying to be rude unnecessarily. That is not only wrong but will weaken your position in the process. When walking car lots, I am very nice to the salespeople, but very upfront as well. If I am just there to test drive, I tell them that right away and caution them against wasting their time. One of the first things that I do is inform them that I will be extremely honest with them, and that I will expect the same from them as well. I warn them that I will not tolerate any lies, and that the first time I catch them in a lie, ESPECIALLY a small one, I will walk. Which I do.

- Control the buying process. Have you ever noticed that salespeople are always asking questions? Have you ever wondered why they do that? Seems kind of strange, doesn't it? You don't know why they always ask questions, do you? Well, duh, it's so they can control the conversation and the buying process. Everytime you say "yes" you are committing yourself further and further into the deal. So YOU ask the questions. Also, have you ever wondered why they keep you waiting unnecessarily? Same thing, control and (most importantly) investment into the buying decision (via your time). Don't do it. 15-20 minutes waits are one thing. Get left alone for 30 minutes, walk to the front desk and announce who you are, who your salesperson is, and that you are leaving, and then proceed to leave (but remember to never be emotional, even when the salesperson chases after you, which they will). Now you are in control.

- Never pretend to know something that you don't actually know. Salespeople are NOT smarter than you, but they do have a lot more practice and experience than you do. Remember that. For example, as a mortgage loan officer, I take more loan applications IN ONE WEEK than any of my customers ever will in their entire lifetime. Do not be arrogant or tell the salesperson how to do his job. Through constant practice and experience, he/she actually is better at you than this and, if you piss him/her off, they just might be inclined to spank you just for fun or spite. Do not invite this.

- The salesperson is not your enemy. I'm going to (in my usual fashion) break all conventional wisdom at this time. When shopping for a big-ticket something, you are not looking for the best price or the best deal. You're looking for the best, most hard-working, most honest salesperson you can find. The person who does it all for you, finds exactly what you want when you want it, who never lies to you, and who makes you feel good about the buying process and what you are buying. Believe it or not, this is what you really want (and is why salesperson won't go away and why internet buying sites have not and never will be successful). And those type of salespeople do not work for free (do you?). In fact, it's important to remember that only desperate, incompetent salespeople work for free.

Good Luck.

Oh, and I could suggest the Subaru WRX? If you're a "driver," it's an amazing car for the money.


edited: formatting
 
If you wanted to pay by a cashier's check the buyer would go get it after the agreed price is set correct? If so what would stop the salesperson from changing the price after the buyer comes back?
 
first you have to pick a car. figure out what your price range is (be sure to put down at least 20% if financing, gaps are bad, and i wouldn't finance for more than 4 years if i could help it) and then go drive a bunch of them. don't let them check your credit, look at your trade (tell them you're not trading)... heck depending on your state you don't even have to let them look at your DL.

once you've picked a car and options fax every single dealer of that car with what you want and that you want a quote.
 
If you belong to a credit union ask them about their car buying service.

Our credit union offers one but I prefer to buy a loss leader so I can save around $2k-$3k below factory to dealer invoice.

Our 2002 Honda Accord SE automatic stickered for $19,500 we bought it for $17,244 😀
 
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