Litte Puff of smoke

[Mir96TA]

Russwinters you wouldn't have an info what TVs I would needed ? and where I can get it from and what oriention I can install it ?

 

[Russwinters]

Part number is R651, but can't find anywhere that is stocking them right now. Maybe you will have some luck.

on the specs it should say 5V ~400ma diode


Again I want to reiterate that I do not recommend using the drive anymore; it is much safer to just pick up a new drive.



Regards,

 

[AyashiKaibutsu]

I didn't read the whole thread, but it's pretty clear you let the magic smoke that makes hardware work out of your harddrive. Without that smoke, your hdd has no hope of working.

 

[Mir96TA]

Part number is R651, but can't find anywhere that is stocking them right now. Maybe you will have some luck.

on the specs it should say 5V ~400ma diode


Again I want to reiterate that I do not recommend using the drive anymore; it is much safer to just pick up a new drive.



Regards,

Again , Thank you so much
Data Saved
Now if I were to take this as an project and installed this TVS SMAJ5.0A-13-F
Which as a same values 5V/ 6.4V / 400W
Will that work ?
I am going to use this as $hit Drive to F around or OS experiments !
What you think ?

 

[rasczak]

This is the best thread I've read in a looooooong time. Thanks for the insight, Russwinters.

 

[n7]

This is the best thread I've read in a looooooong time. Thanks for the insight, Russwinters.

Indeed, major info dropped in here, thanx Russwinters.

 

[Old Hippie]

Indeed, major info dropped in here, thanx Russwinters.

That man knows his stuff! :thumbsup:

 

[Soulkeeper]

I've fryed the pcb on a harddrive before and was able to repair it
was only a fryed trace
in my case and all I had to do was bypass it, used the drive for a year or two after that before it finally gave out.

Might be worth removing the pcb and examining all the traces, if it's something simple you could potentially fix it ...

gl

 

[Russwinters]

Thanks for the kind words everyone;

Noticed this thread got bumped and thought I would answer the last question even though it is a few months old, and he probably already figured it out:

Now if I were to take this as an project and installed this TVS SMAJ5.0A-13-F
Which as a same values 5V/ 6.4V / 400W -- This is a good match, digi key is a good source, by the way.

 

[bupkus]

Russwinters,
I've studied your comments on this thread and I'm in a difficult situation. I have a hard drive which I believe was damaged by a power outage.
It is a
MDL: WD800JB-00JJC0
DATE: 25-JUN 2006
DCM: HSBHNTJAH

The owner didn't do a backup and he needs some documents in the doc folder.

I'm not at all familiar with diodes but read the web page at
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/1.html

I don't own a multimeter or the required screw driver but I can acquire both.

On the bottom of the pcb just adjacent to the power plug in point are 4 contact points.
The first (from left to right) is a tiny square with +12V next to it. Next in order is :

1. +12V
2. GND
3. GND
4+5V

Can this test be done on those contact points and is the test necessary?
Could I just snip off the diodes as soon as I acquire the proper screw driver for a just long enough workability to remove the data?

I have an external enclosure with adapter to insert an IDE device and use USB to connect to a pc.

 

[bupkus]

Am I allowed to post this... testing as I lost a whole composed letter.

Edit: Nevermind, ie crashed but not before posting.

 

[Russwinters]

Hello!

Well, I would have to look at the PCB because WD can use some very different PCB designs then Seagate.

The best thing right now would be to provide a photo of the board (chipside) and I can take a look at which board this drive has. I can already guess but would like a look anyways.

 

[bupkus]

Well... I just got back from Frys Electronics, bought a Multimeter by Fluke, the 116, a T8 screw driver and a Weller self igniting butane gas soldering iron and hot air tool.

My home owner's insurance and hospitalization is paid up and I'm ready to roll.

I don't know if I can provide a photo unless my phone can do a decent job. Be back in a few.

 

[Russwinters]

The Weller butane iron should be good enough if the TVS is the issue, but if this board is the type i suspect then likely it will not be a simple matter of removing the TVS, some slightely more difficult procedures will need to be done. For this you will want a good hot air gun, and soldering station with adjustable temperature.

I use a PACE ST-25 (I believe they have ST-35 now) with "mini wave" tips instead of the standard pointed tip.


In order to guide you properly I will really need to see the PCB. Not all PCB designs use Diode in the same manor exactly, so just removing any component that looks like a TVS is not a good idea, even if it seems like it is a TVS. You must be sure.

 

[Mir96TA]

Thanks for the kind words everyone;

Noticed this thread got bumped and thought I would answer the last question even though it is a few months old, and he probably already figured it out:

Now if I were to take this as an project and installed this TVS SMAJ5.0A-13-F
Which as a same values 5V/ 6.4V / 400W -- This is a good match, digi key is a good source, by the way.

Thanks Man You were great help. I removed the TVS it is working now.
In order to replace TVs I have to get it from Digi Key, they have a ridiculous prices for shipping stuff to Canada.

 

[bupkus]

I recall seeing some pics on ebay that "look" identical to the one I have here.

http://computers.shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=WD800JB-00JJC0+&_sacat=58058

MDL: WD800JB-00JJC0
DATE: 25-JUN 2006
DCM: HSBHNTJAH

Oddly, when I first looked at the board the chip set at 45 degrees off looked as if it had some glue. Noticing there was no glue elsewhere I looked at the soft insulating foam gasket and it shows a small hole within the pressure imprint where that chip was.

I would hate to think a destructive amount of heat inside that chip could have melted the insulation.

 

[bupkus]

I would upload these pics, if I
1. knew how
2. thought they'd help (really bad quality)

However, the pic does show the discoloration on the chip cause by the melted foam, but a description there atleast should suffice.

 

[bupkus]

Here's a much better picture. So far it looks identical.
http://cgi.ebay.com/WD-WD2500JB-00R...C_Drives_Storage_Internal&hash=item3efebbd66e

I hope the link works.

Some of the main chips are different.

1. the hynix is actually a Samsung on my pcb
2. other yet small differences

Hmm... this cb seems to be by Foxconn

 

[Russwinters]

Alright, this is indeed what I guessed.


This board does not use TVS like the Seagate in we were talking about.


This board is harder.


To recover this drive you need to:

Get a matching board


then:

Transfer 8 legged chip in position U12 to the new board.

This is the ROM chip, basically like a BIOS chip for the hard drive, each HDD has unique "Adaptive" data stored in this chip, so even if you have 2 drives with same model and everything you are extremely unlikely (1 in 10000 or more) to get close enough match; this has gotten even worse on new drives.


When desoldering this chip, it is heat sensitive so you cannot expose it to too much heat for a prolonged amount of time (like ~500F for more then 20-30seconds max) or else the data in the ROM can get corrupted and then things get really difficult (not impossible, but VERY difficult, and you will need highly specialized tools)



another thing to keep in mind is the orientation of the chip, you need to make sure when you solder the chip to the new board that you keep the original orientation, or you can risk killing the chip this way, if you flip the pinouts.



If you do not feel comfortable doing this yourself, and the data on the drive is valuable. You can always PM me, i'm located in California and would be happy to help (at a price, unfortunately, but a nicely discounted price for AT members)



If you want to risk the data, and attempt it yourself, I cannot stop you, and will guide you as well as I can over the net; but my warning is that if you kill this ROM chip your recovery will be ~$1000 or more from a professional company.


Regards,

 

[adlep]

Alright, this is indeed what I guessed.


This board does not use TVS like the Seagate in we were talking about.


This board is harder.


To recover this drive you need to:

Get a matching board


then:

Transfer 8 legged chip in position U12 to the new board.

This is the ROM chip, basically like a BIOS chip for the hard drive, each HDD has unique "Adaptive" data stored in this chip, so even if you have 2 drives with same model and everything you are extremely unlikely (1 in 10000 or more) to get close enough match; this has gotten even worse on new drives.


When desoldering this chip, it is heat sensitive so you cannot expose it to too much heat for a prolonged amount of time (like ~500F for more then 20-30seconds max) or else the data in the ROM can get corrupted and then things get really difficult (not impossible, but VERY difficult, and you will need highly specialized tools)



another thing to keep in mind is the orientation of the chip, you need to make sure when you solder the chip to the new board that you keep the original orientation, or you can risk killing the chip this way, if you flip the pinouts.



If you do not feel comfortable doing this yourself, and the data on the drive is valuable. You can always PM me, i'm located in California and would be happy to help (at a price, unfortunately, but a nicely discounted price for AT members)



If you want to risk the data, and attempt it yourself, I cannot stop you, and will guide you as well as I can over the net; but my warning is that if you kill this ROM chip your recovery will be ~$1000 or more from a professional company.


Regards,

Russwinters for elite, PRONTO