LG Home Theater 1000W Total RMS/ Speakers at 3 ohm's/ Weak Subwoofer

[Arkaign]

Should be really nice sounding. Keep your eye out down the road for an AVR upgrade for the features you want, probably a few will jump to new ones with the HDMI 2.1+ stuff and it should make for some decent options. Best thing is your 4306 will still hold value as well

 

[blurecentrel]

Should be really nice sounding. Keep your eye out down the road for an AVR upgrade for the features you want, probably a few will jump to new ones with the HDMI 2.1+ stuff and it should make for some decent options. Best thing is your 4306 will still hold value as well

Hello Arkaign.

Wanted to ask you what do you think about the (Magnat Monitor Supreme 1002) pair for the fronts insteed of the Wharfedale Diamond 220 ???
Any advice? Magnats seems much powerfull and just little bit more expensive.

Also please can you tell me the real specs for my previous hifi system, and most important the sub power RMS? speakers was rated at 3 ohm's and subwoofer rated at 6ohm's. I was not able to find accurate specs.
Philips FWM608/12

 

[Arkaign]

Hello Arkaign.

Wanted to ask you what do you think about the (Magnat Monitor Supreme 1002) pair for the fronts insteed of the Wharfedale Diamond 220 ???
Any advice? Magnats seems much powerfull and just little bit more expensive.

Also please can you tell me the real specs for my previous hifi system, and most important the sub power RMS? speakers was rated at 3 ohm's and subwoofer rated at 6ohm's. I was not able to find accurate specs.
Philips FWM608/12

Basically low impedence is a force multiplier for weak amps. Takes less force to move the speaker and generate sound. But it comes at the expense of accuracy, particularly as volume increases. In practical terms a pair of 100W 8ohm quality bookshelves and an okay 8" powered sub would blow it away.

 

[blurecentrel]

Ordered the parts anyway, so waiting for them to arrive on monday-tuesday. I will need your help so i can setup the AVR and speakers corectly and tune them ok.

How you recon to fit the speakers, sub and amp for 5.1 setup in the living room?
I've attached a drawed design with my room and how i think will be ok.
What do you think?

 

[blurecentrel]

Basically low impedence is a force multiplier for weak amps. Takes less force to move the speaker and generate sound. But it comes at the expense of accuracy, particularly as volume increases. In practical terms a pair of 100W 8ohm quality bookshelves and an okay 8" powered sub would blow it away.

How are you Arkaign?

Would you please let me know how it's better to connect subwoofer to Receiver by which method/cable?

Not sure where should i connect and which cable in amp and in subwoofer, as many said just an RCA goes to sub and RCA to amp, other ones said to use Level input or something like that, different but nothing accurate. So i need your help for a perfect and correct fit.

Got arround 9m from Receiver to Subwoofer so i bought this one, hope the lengh is not a problem as the cable is 15m: Subwoofer cable 15m

Also if you can tell me how to set the Volume, Crossover and Phase on the subwoofer please.

Regards

 

[blurecentrel]

Basically low impedence is a force multiplier for weak amps. Takes less force to move the speaker and generate sound. But it comes at the expense of accuracy, particularly as volume increases. In practical terms a pair of 100W 8ohm quality bookshelves and an okay 8" powered sub would blow it away.

Hey mate. Merry Christmas

I need your help and some advice.

Got the subwoofer from above, but at max volume on it and just half on AVR the subwoofer makes some port noise. The dubstep i am listening has some low notes probably below 35hz.
Would you help me to choose another better one?

Also i need help to connect the AVR to TV via HDMI or posibility to get audio from TV via HDMI.

Please reply if you have time.

 

[Arkaign]

Haha, got the upgrade bug already? Well at least that's the beauty of mix n match rack gear, the sky's the limit.

Don't be afraid of stealing some dirt cheap 'broken' subs as well if the size seems good to you. If the actual speaker in one is intact and well specced, you can often salvage it to upgrade another unit, or examine the PCB and caps/fuse for repair.

For the 4306 and HDMI/TV audio setup you have a couple choices. First off, look up the factory reset procedure, probably best to always start there with a used AVR. Usually something simple like hold a particular button on power up.

Next, make sure you have an optical cable, and check your TV for an optical audio output port. Most do, though there are exceptions. This well let you go from source to TV, then TV to AVR via optical. You will have top image quality this way, and still excellent sound, though sometimes the extra channels are not compatible. Alternatively you can run source to HDMI 1, 2, or 3 input to AVR, then HDMI 'Monitor' to TV. Unless you have a 4K/HDR AVR though, this will give you the best surround mode, but limit your video to 1080p. Some aftermarket gadgets can help you split a signal, so you can send video to TV, and audio to the AVR from the same source. This gets very tricky with HDCP and ARC and is not nearly as straightforward as it sounds though.

I can't say for sure on what sub you should get, it can be total feast or famine in the used market, so who knows what is available. Using RCA splitters you can also easily run 2 or 3 subs off the same AVR as well. Sometimes I'll run a very highly responsive 8" or 10" unit at medium levels, and combo it with a 12" or 15" unit for some deeper punch on different levels. Adjusting the crossover to keep one out of the lowest Hz if it handles it less than perfectly is always an option. I'll send a pic of my crazy living room rig sometime soon.

Happy holidays!

 

[blurecentrel]

Haha, got the upgrade bug already? Well at least that's the beauty of mix n match rack gear, the sky's the limit.

Don't be afraid of stealing some dirt cheap 'broken' subs as well if the size seems good to you. If the actual speaker in one is intact and well specced, you can often salvage it to upgrade another unit, or examine the PCB and caps/fuse for repair.

For the 4306 and HDMI/TV audio setup you have a couple choices. First off, look up the factory reset procedure, probably best to always start there with a used AVR. Usually something simple like hold a particular button on power up.

Next, make sure you have an optical cable, and check your TV for an optical audio output port. Most do, though there are exceptions. This well let you go from source to TV, then TV to AVR via optical. You will have top image quality this way, and still excellent sound, though sometimes the extra channels are not compatible. Alternatively you can run source to HDMI 1, 2, or 3 input to AVR, then HDMI 'Monitor' to TV. Unless you have a 4K/HDR AVR though, this will give you the best surround mode, but limit your video to 1080p. Some aftermarket gadgets can help you split a signal, so you can send video to TV, and audio to the AVR from the same source. This gets very tricky with HDCP and ARC and is not nearly as straightforward as it sounds though.

I can't say for sure on what sub you should get, it can be total feast or famine in the used market, so who knows what is available. Using RCA splitters you can also easily run 2 or 3 subs off the same AVR as well. Sometimes I'll run a very highly responsive 8" or 10" unit at medium levels, and combo it with a 12" or 15" unit for some deeper punch on different levels. Adjusting the crossover to keep one out of the lowest Hz if it handles it less than perfectly is always an option. I'll send a pic of my crazy living room rig sometime soon.

Happy holidays!

Better will be to follow your 2nd option for HDMI audio. As i kind of want to get the max audio quality of this unit.
I was not able to get audio from TV to AVR, because i don't know how to do it corectly.
So there's 3 Input HDMI and 1 Out Monitor HDMI (NO ARC on AVR) - I''ve got ARC HDMI just on my Smart TV.

So can you help me with more detailed procedure, how to get the Source (TV) to AVR's HDMI input and AVR HDMI 'Monitor' OUT to TV? Basically i will need two HDMI cables for this operation,
correct?
What to choose at Source selection on AVR? There's so many option while turning the Souce wheel/button so not sure which one to choose while the HDMI will be connected to TV, so in this way to get the sound.

Is your HDMI option the way to get the TrueHD and DTS HD and most new gen of audio bitrate from BluRay and 4K movies?
I might just loose all of this because my source audio will be done by the toslink cable and not via an HDMI?

One more thing: An additional 4k Bluray Player connected to AVR, will provide the best option the get the TrueHD and DTS HD via HDMI?
I know my AVR is not the top and top end unit on the market, but i need to play some 4k content and want to hear the quality audio that is in that movie.
Will the source (4k Bluray Player) send 4k content via HDMi to AVR, then AVR send the content to TV via HDMI? Can i make this option possible with my AVR?

For example i've got some Bluray or 4k movies already on the netflix or HDD downloaded content. Bellow you have some example of what the movies audio looks like on paper:
- DD5.1 @ 640 kb/s (sfse)
- E-AC-3 @ 640 kb/s 6 channels
- DTS @ 1 509 kb/s 6 channels
- Atmos / TrueHD 7.1 @ Bit rate : 5 205 kb/s / 6 144 kb/s - 8 channels - Compression mode : Lossless

This from 4 different movies FullHD and 4K that i curently have saved on my external HDD.

 

[Arkaign]

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Splitter-Support-Toslink/dp/B0755TB82Q

After much research, that is the absolute cheapest way to get max audio capability from your 1080p AVR while using a 4k/HDR display.

It has an audio only split mode where it takes HDMI input (4k HDR 7.1/etc) and then you can send audio over one HDMI to AVR, and then normal 4k HDR video to TV.

Note : you may want to disable ARC on your TV with this kind of setup.

Alternatively, an optical audio cable is only a few bucks, I really would recommend trying that option just to see how it treats you.

 

[blurecentrel]

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Splitter-Support-Toslink/dp/B0755TB82Q

After much research, that is the absolute cheapest way to get max audio capability from your 1080p AVR while using a 4k/HDR display.

It has an audio only split mode where it takes HDMI input (4k HDR 7.1/etc) and then you can send audio over one HDMI to AVR, and then normal 4k HDR video to TV.

Note : you may want to disable ARC on your TV with this kind of setup.

Alternatively, an optical audio cable is only a few bucks, I really would recommend trying that option just to see how it treats you.

Got to say i've done an upgrade to my setup.

Sold the Denon and got an almost New (never used) original box, sealed (ONKYO TX-NR515) - 7.2 TrueHD/DTS HD AVR Receiver for £150

Will wait for this to arrive and will sort the things out with it.

Will you be able to let me know if the specs are true? Not sure for the Onkyo if the wattage at 6 & 8 Ohm's are correct.
Denon with 8 Ohm speakers puts out more WRMS per channel then with 6 Ohm speakers
Onkyo with 8 Ohm speakers puts out less WRMS per channel then with 6 Ohm speakers

Denon:
130w RMS at 6 Ohm per channel
170w RMS at 8 Ohm per channel

ONKYO:
125w RMS at 6 Ohm per channel
80w RMS at 8 Ohm per channel

Onkyo TX-NR515