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Lens for shooting football pics from stands

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Great shots! I especially like the first and third.

I would generally recommend you try to shoot full manual, including ISO. You just need to constantly be aware of changing cloud cover or if the sun goes down. So on a cloudy day it can be almost set it and forget it, but other days you need to change settings regularly. In the long run, you'll learn to do a better job than the camera. Chimp - look at the resulting photos with histogram regularly to do this.

The alternative is to use one of the metering modes. The camera just looks at the average amount of light in the chosen area and tries to expose to a middle amount of light. I tend to prefer center weighted - the open circle. Generally the center area of the picture will include a person, and not much sky and not be overwhelmed by dark jerseys. Spot weighting will vary quite a bit based on only the very center of the picture, which may be on a white jersey one photo and the dark jersey tackling him on the next shot. So the photos will be very uneven in exposure. Evaluative metering uses the full photo, but some shots will have a lot of sky, others not. So it doesn't work well either.

Like in the three photos you shared, I'd expect that the first one which has a good mix of light and dark throughout the center and the entire picture - would be exposed well regardless of mode. The second one has a dark jersey leg in the center, as well as fairly dark grass - so spot or center weighting would result in an overexposed shot. And the third one has a lot of sky and a bright white jersey toward the center - so it may be underexposed especially in spot or center weighting (the dark bushes may result in evaluative weighting working well)
 
HDR bracketing is my first thought as well.

You said full manual, so that throws "what is your metering" mode thought.
 
Thanks. I took more shots at another football game and when I was messing with settings, I noticed it was set to spot metering the entire time. I started messing around with the different metering and they seemed to turn out better. Of course, different lighting conditions than the pics I posted earlier. I'll post a few more photos this evening.
 
This seems appropriate
A-photographers-learning-curve.jpg
 
I think others have given some good advice. If im not mistaken the 55-250 is considered one of the best value lenses in canons lineup, truly an excellent lens for pennies on the dollar. Shoot with it. There would be no reason to pick up the 70-200 is ii. It is a great lens and I own it but I was also willing to pay the premium for that minor increase in quality over something like the tamrom 70-200 vc ii which I would recommend everyone comparing before jumping with canon, and I own a ff body so the 55-250 wont fit. But either way both those lenses are going to get you further away from the action. I think for any lens to actually be worth getting would be something over the 350mm range. 250 to 300mm is not going to bring you noticeably closer to the action. So stay away from the 70-300 lenses. I think it would just be wasted money spent.
Secondly on a sidenote image stabilization does not help with sports, it only helps with stationary subjects. That will never change. Now im not recommending against IS because you can use it when needed but it will NOT be of any use for quick moving subjects.
 
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