LED ROCKER SWITCH HELP

[frank84]

I got 4 of these installed.
I figured out the (-) and the (+), but in order to make the LED light to work, I need to ground it.

here is the diagram of the switch.

any idea how I can ground this thing?

 

[NewBlackDak]

Connect pin 3 to a chassis ground. Run a wire from pin 3 to a screw for one of your add-in cards, or run a wire to a black pin on a molex, or screw/solder a wire to your chosen location on the case.

 

[frank84]

hmm,,, so I can run any kind of wire through it, and attach it on any part of the case?

 

[gotensan01]

Originally posted by: wonho84
hmm,,, so I can run any kind of wire through it, and attach it on any part of the case?

Yeah, any metal part of the case will ground it to release small build up of extra charge. As for the wire, I would imagine any type (gauge) would be fine because it is just for ground.

 

[frank84]

thanx alot guys, I will try this once I get the wires and times.

I hope it works.

thanx once again.

 

[wkwong]

just use old fan wires from extensions or adapters, cheap and you probably have a few sets laying around 🙂

 

[frank84]

hmm... ok..

umm.. the 'ground' connecter has a hole on it.

should i let the wire go through it? or is there any other way to secure it?

 

[drx9175l]

The switch and it's diagram appear to have been originally designed for automotive use - the reference to a battery or fuse box gives it away. It's fine to use the switch in a PC, but the retailer should have made an updated wiring schematic. The easiest way to wire it would be to locate a 4pin male molex plug. Remove one from a sacrificial fan or other device. Either of the two black wires will attach to the ground position, connection #3. The yellow wire is +12VDC and should be attached to connection #1. Connection #2 is used to power whatever item you want hooked to it- a fan, light, etc. This unit will also need to be connected to ground and can be attached to the other black wire on the molex plug. The red wire is +5VDC and isn't used in this example. Be sure to clip it off to prevent a short from occuring. As for the warning not to exceed the 10A rating of the switch, this is again mainly directed toward auto use. PC's shouldn't have anything drawing 120W other than maybe the CPU.

When the switch is flipped to the "ON" position it allows power to flow from the source (PSU) to the device (fan, light, etc). It also completes the circuit the LED is on giving you a pretty blue light. As for the hole you mentioned, it's used to twist a bare wire into place before soldering. Usually that type of switch will also work with female .250" quick disconnect terminals (Radio Shack). Sorry if all this seems overly complicated. When working with raw components it's best to have a fair understanding of basic electronics. Good luck with your project and please post pictures when it's finished.

 

[frank84]

wow...
full explanation of electrical circuit..
nice.

hahaha

my lights been working.. it's just that the LED wasn't..
but anyhow..
I will try to ground it aSAp.. and put some pictures up.

btw.

I have 4 switches, installed on front bay,
I drilled 4 holes..
I am using 1st 2 of them are for CC lights.
1) 2 cathod inside the case (red)
2) 1 cathod for my see through keyboard (blue)

my (+) and (-) wires are from the Cold Cathode Light Converter.
one of the converter actually came with the rocking switch, so it was pretty easy for me to disconnect the wire from the stock rocking switch to new LED switch.

and for the other converter, I just cut the wire, ripped it out a little, and by using the black electrical tape, I wraped it to the LED rocking switch.

so, i guess, what I will do is, cut and strip out one of the extra 4 pin male molex, connect the 2 black wires to the 2 rocking switchs.. right????

hmmm.... I guess grounding it with PSU is better than doing it to the my Aluminum Case?