-
We’re currently investigating an issue related to the forum theme and styling that is impacting page layout and visual formatting. The problem has been identified, and we are actively working on a resolution. There is no impact to user data or functionality, this is strictly a front-end display issue. We’ll post an update once the fix has been deployed. Thanks for your patience while we get this sorted.
Lawnmower engine won't run for more than 5 seconds or so... *UPDATE* Runs now :D
Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the AnandTech community: where nearly half-a-million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
The thing with the red bulb in it is the Carb. unscrew the aircleaner housing. (the square thing ont he top.) It will use a flat head screwdriver. You took off the right one if it has a bunch of holes in the bottom, through which you can see a green foam. After getting it off, you should be able to get the 2 screws that hold the carb to the gas tank. (2 #2 philips screws ) They are just to the left, and to the rigth of the red primer bulb (the one on the right is about 1/4" from the sticker that says "Briggs and Stratton"), going from the carb into the tank in a vertical direction.
There will be 2 long sticks with screens on the end attached to the bottom of the carb. Pull them out. They are usually just pressed in. Do not pull on the screen "T". Pull on the pipe. The T can break off with enough force.
After you get them out, clean out any gunk in the tubes, and clean the holes they went into in the carb body.
You should not have to remove the carb from the intake, just the tank from the carb. That way you will only need 1 gasket which costs about $1. If you have to take the carb off, i suggest taking off the 2 phillips screws that mount the intake to the engine, not the intake to carb. It will be easier, and the engine/intake gasket is more robust and will hopefully not tear.
The intake is a small 1/2" daimeter pipe about 4" long that goes from the carb to the engine.
Modified Scoorb Pic: mower1.jpg
The carb is screwed right into the gas tank on this model (as most B &S5hp models and under) There is a pickup tube that feads a float bowl that is built into the gas tank, and another pickup that feeds the carb from the float bowl. No gas line = no remote tank = cheaper to make.
There will be 2 long sticks with screens on the end attached to the bottom of the carb. Pull them out. They are usually just pressed in. Do not pull on the screen "T". Pull on the pipe. The T can break off with enough force.
After you get them out, clean out any gunk in the tubes, and clean the holes they went into in the carb body.
You should not have to remove the carb from the intake, just the tank from the carb. That way you will only need 1 gasket which costs about $1. If you have to take the carb off, i suggest taking off the 2 phillips screws that mount the intake to the engine, not the intake to carb. It will be easier, and the engine/intake gasket is more robust and will hopefully not tear.
The intake is a small 1/2" daimeter pipe about 4" long that goes from the carb to the engine.
Modified Scoorb Pic: mower1.jpg
The carb is screwed right into the gas tank on this model (as most B &S5hp models and under) There is a pickup tube that feads a float bowl that is built into the gas tank, and another pickup that feeds the carb from the float bowl. No gas line = no remote tank = cheaper to make.
StageLeft
No Lifer
Thanks Evadman!
I will take that section apart. It looks like i started going a little overboard then. Guess I'll put the rest back together 🙂
mower4.JPG <- tissue to keep out dirt.
mower5.JPG
I will take that section apart. It looks like i started going a little overboard then. Guess I'll put the rest back together 🙂
mower4.JPG <- tissue to keep out dirt.
mower5.JPG
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
OMG! you took off the Jesus bolt! You are so screwed! I like how you took apart everything EXCEPT the carb.
You may want to adjust the magnetron. It is scraping on your flywheel. this is robbing power, and creating heat your magnetron can not deal with. It is not the cause of the problem tho. The magnito is the horseshoe shaped thing on the top that the wire from the spark plug comes from. As you can see it is rubbing on the flywheel. This is what makes the spark. It is supposed to be 16-20 thousanths from the flywheel. It looks to be about 2 thousanths. since i doubt you have a feeler gauge, get a sheet of paper and fold it 4 times (4 thicknesses thick). then loosen the 2 bolts on the top of the magnetron. place the folded piece of paper between the arms and the magnatron. Then push the magnatron against the paper and flywheel and retighten. This will give you a nice even 16 thousanths. See here
Just FYI: the bigger pipe you have the paper in is the intake. the smaller one is the crankcase breather, which sucks unburned gas out of the crankcase for less ploution.
StageLeft
No Lifer
You're serious about magnito and magnetron? :Q
I took the carb off the gas tank. Unfortunately it looked pretty clean 🙁 The two tubes going up into it with the wire gauze filters were very clean. I drained the tank more fully for good measure, but otherwise it looked good. From the top (where the air filter attaches) it was nice in there, and the butterfly plate was also nice looking...
In regards to your paper you want it 4 thicknesses thick, as opposed to actually folding it 4 times (16 thicknesses if you do that!)...?
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
Yep.
Magnito and magnatron are the same thing, except a magnito needs points. you have a pointless ignition system, so you have a magnatron. I used the wrong word. my bad.
The problem is inside the carb. Either the passages in the carb are gummed with the old gas, a bit of gasket or grass got in, or the pipe leading from the float bowl to the carb is restricted. (not clogged, since it will run for a few seconds) this is the shorter of the 2 pipes. check to be sure that it is not glued in, then pull on it ro remove it. GENTLY. you may have to slightly twist it. once out, blow it clean. Also clean out the passages of the carb with carb cleaner. DO NOT use a paperclip or another metal object. You may have to soak it with carb cleaner. You can use the standard stuff from any sore, aresol or otherwise.
right, 4 thicknesses. Each sheet is about 4 thousanths of an inch. 4 sheets thick = about 16 thousanths.
<edit>
Whoops. You have a 10 series. Stupid murry. That is a .006 to .010 gap. use 2 sheets 😛 Sorry the good thing is that tiyr pickup tubes for fuel are screwed in using a 3/8" nut driver. thease are easier to clen and remove
StageLeft
No Lifer
OK I have carb cleaner from another use - so I can safely spray it all everywhere in the carb then?
in regards to the magnetron I did check and there is minimal clearance, as the flywheel turns all the way, so it's not quite touching. however, since the flywheel can't move backwards away from the magnetron (Call Dr. Xavier!), then the magnetron has to move away from the flywheel and I can't see a bolt that handles that. It seems to be preset...
in regards to the magnetron I did check and there is minimal clearance, as the flywheel turns all the way, so it's not quite touching. however, since the flywheel can't move backwards away from the magnetron (Call Dr. Xavier!), then the magnetron has to move away from the flywheel and I can't see a bolt that handles that. It seems to be preset...
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
the magnatron has i bolts ini obling holes. you have to loosen them. But dont worry about it. it is not worth the possibility of setting it totaly wrong 😛
You can spray the entire carb. There is nothing that will react with the cleaner. It would be easiest to remove the carb from the tank, since cleaning the outside of the carb will only make it look nice, and not fix anything 😛
There are 2 screws in the SIDE of the carberator. These are your high low mixture screws. DO NOT TOUCH THESE with a screwdriver. They are a pain to get set correctly. Sometimes, cleaning behind them may be neccessary, in which case, tighten the screws as far as they will go, counting the turns fo each screw. (in 1/4 turn increments) and write this down. If you have to, have Mrs.Scoorb write them on your forhead. They must be set almost exactly the same when reinstalling. If they are not, your motor will not run, you will hate your life, and go buy a new mower. So again, ONLY TOUCH THESE IF YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO.
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
Choke Butterfly valve (the one you can see without taking the carb from the engine. in this case, in the top) throttle butterfly valve, located on the engine side of the carb. Can not be held open externaly with anything. You wouldn't want to anyway.
Holding open the choke will give the engine LESS fuel. The problem is, it is not getting enough.
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
Not really, no. That is indicitive of blowby or too much oil in the crankcase. the plug should be a light brown color, maybe iwth a brown powder on it. It should not look glossy at all. If it does, you have blow by, or a cold plug. Bring your plug to a mower shop (not Home Depot or Lowes or ACE) show them your plug. They should tell you to go one or 2 steps hotter with the plug (the plug gets hotter when running, and will burn that off) I do not have my handy dandy plug book, so I don't know which to tell you to get. I would suggest tossing in a new plug since they are only $2. the number will be written on the white porcelien onf the plug, and should start with a J.
Evadman
Administrator Emeritus<br>Elite Member
StageLeft
No Lifer
LOL!
Anyway thanks 🙂 I flooded the crap out of the carb with cleaner and put it all back together with new gas. Other than one stall (which may have been from too much load from some thick grass) I just mowed another 20-25 min without any issue. I think I'll get a new plug or look at a hotter one too.
So I guess the carb is now cleaner. If the mower does this again perhaps a new carb entirely would be in order *shrug*, though hopefully I'll finish off the summer without issue 🙂
TRENDING THREADS
-
Discussion Zen 5 Speculation (EPYC Turin and Strix Point/Granite Ridge - Ryzen 9000)- Started by DisEnchantment
- Replies: 25K
-
Discussion Intel Meteor, Arrow, Lunar & Panther Lakes + WCL Discussion Threads
- Started by Tigerick
- Replies: 25K
-
Discussion Intel current and future Lakes & Rapids thread- Started by TheF34RChannel
- Replies: 24K
-
-
