Lawn help

[Fanatical Meat]

We had a pretty severe drought last year and the below part never came back. I'm going to loosen up what's left, add some new soil and seed with bluegrass. There is a weed/vine that started to take over last fall and some crabgrass patches that survived the drought. What is the preferred type of grass/weed/kills everything brand and type. Ideally I'd like to be able to plant again within 10 days of application.
Also I plan on doing a pre-emergent treatment everywhere else but where the new grass seed will be placed. Any suggestions guys?

*Vine/weed thing is mostly located in the top left below the grass line
*Crabgrass is generally mixed in but most prominent in the bottom

 

[turtile]

I need to know where you are located to help. Crab grass is an annual anywhere where it freezes. If you are planting new seed, use a power seeder. Roundup is one of the only chemicals where you can kill everything and grow shortly after. Bluegrass does not like heat, so you might want to consider Tall Fescue instead but again, I don't know where you are located. There are also pre-emergents that can be used at seeding with Tall Fescue.

 

[Fanatical Meat]

NE, outside of Boston. I'll look into the tall fescue

 

[mxnerd]

Bluegrass take a long time to germinate, seems at least 4 weeks. You probably will run out of patience.

I love Ryegrass. Its dark green color and long, thin leaves looks beautiful. Just planted this past winter for a small testing area. Ryegrass should be able to germinate in 2 weeks.

Grass seeds need soil contact, cover it with 1/4" of soil/peat moss and water 3 to 4 times a day.

Will replace whole lawn that's in bad shape with Rye this fall. Southern California.

 

[nathanddrews]

To deal with the weeds and dead grass, using a light metal rake to sort of dethatch would be a good start before laying seed.

In my area (Minnesota), I lay down a layer of Bluegrass seed on bare or thinning areas in the fall and it germinates as soon as the snow melts the following spring. I don't protect it with anything, just throw it down. It starts growing before the weeds do, so my grass chokes out most of the weeds naturally by blocking sunlight. Generally speaking for my zone, weeds thrive when it's dry and sunny, grass thrives when it's cool and wet, so I try to play to those strengths.

Bluegrass is my favorite because it grows using runners that spread really fast in the early spring. The key for me has been to buy grass seed that is at least 50% Bluegrass varieties. It's more expensive per pound, but super effective. In fact, my grass frequently invades the flower beds and even mulched areas covered in plastic. It's a little crazy.

Also, another great tip given to me was to always cut my grass high. I use the 4 height setting on my mower (out of 5). If you cut grass too short, more sunlight reaches the soil which allows weeds to grow and spread more easily. Most people think they need to cut it short to make it look nice, but the fact of the matter is that no matter what length you cut it, it will still be a uniform height and look nice. Not only does it allow for deeper roots to expand and hold more water during droughts, but the longer grass is really soft and plush to walk and play in.

 

[turtile]

NE, outside of Boston. I'll look into the tall fescue

http://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/selection-of-grasses

They recommend a fine fescue blend for your situation. Where I live, I use only tall fescue because it's the only grass that does well.

 

[paperfist]

https://www.youtube.com/user/LawnCareMidwest

 

[Mark Smith]

To deal with the weeds and dead grass, using a light metal rake to sort of dethatch would be a good start before laying seed.

In my area (Minnesota), I lay down a layer of Bluegrass seed on bare or thinning areas in the fall and it germinates as soon as the snow melts the following spring. I don't protect it with anything, just throw it down. It starts growing before the weeds do, so my grass chokes out most of the weeds naturally by blocking sunlight. Generally speaking for my zone, weeds thrive when it's dry and sunny, grass thrives when it's cool and wet, so I try to play to those strengths.

Bluegrass is my favorite because it grows using runners that spread really fast in the early spring. The key for me has been to buy grass seed that is at least 50% Bluegrass varieties. It's more expensive per pound, but super effective. In fact, my grass frequently invades the flower beds and even mulched areas covered in plastic. It's a little crazy.

Also, another great tip given to me was to always cut my grass high. I use the 4 height setting on my mower (out of 5). If you cut grass too short, more sunlight reaches the soil which allows weeds to grow and spread more easily. Most people think they need to cut it short to make it look nice, but the fact of the matter is that no matter what length you cut it, it will still be a uniform height and look nice. Not only does it allow for deeper roots to expand and hold more water during droughts, but the longer grass is really soft and plush to walk and play in.

Thanks, nathanddrews for the information.
Keep it up..

 

[Fanatical Meat]

I'm going fescue for now & I'll mix in some blue grass in the fall.

However I dug up a big weed and found two fat, happy grubs. Can I apply pesticide on new seeds or should I hit everywhere but the new seed?

 

[turtile]

I'm going fescue for now & I'll mix in some blue grass in the fall.

However I dug up a big weed and found two fat, happy grubs. Can I apply pesticide on new seeds or should I hit everywhere but the new seed?

You can apply Merit or Safari.