I completed repair of your panel tonight. I'll provide details of the work done, but if not interested, you may skip to the triple space for payment details.
The power outage caused a spike of excessive voltage to go through the 120VAC lines. Fortunately, the Klipsch panel was designed with a protective device called a metal oxide varistor ("MOV"), which sacrificed itself before the voltage got past it. The control box is fine, and after removing the board the MOV was on and replacing it and the 5 amp slow-blow fuse, the panel works again. Then I went through the rest of the panel, replacing other components that have tended to fail, and installing the cooling fan. Your panel is in very good condition: not much evidence of heat or damage from heat.
I removed the daughterboard from the power supply and replaced 8 of its 20 components. These boards can reach 185 degrees Fahrenheit when working in open air (and likely higher when inside an enclosed sub without a fan), and individual components rise above 190 degrees (measured on a THX panel on my bench).
--I upgraded two 470 ohm resistors at the bottom that sometimes char the daughterboard. The replacements are 1 watt metal film and mounted above the board for better airflow, using different mounting points to avoid the area that chars.
I replaced
--four 1/8 watt 1% precision resistors with 1/4 watt,
--a 205,000 ohm undersized 1/8 watt 1% precision resistor that often heats and rises in value. Yours had risen to 209,000 ohms, 1% above tolerance. I've seen panels stop working when that resistor has continued to rise. The replacement is rated for 1/4 watt and will be under the cooling airflow of a fan.
and
--the 100,000 ohm resistor that is part of my cooling kit on eBay (one watt flameproof).
The board will now be under a cooling fan, so its temperature will be much lower. The resistor that rises to 190 degrees will operate at about 110 degrees.
On the power supply board I replaced 10 parts, including 6 electrolytic capacitors that can dry out over time (originals were 85 deg. Celsius; the replacements are rated to 105 degrees Celsius). I replaced and mounted for better airflow four other parts: a resistor (original is typically 1 or 2 watt; replacement is 3 watt), a fast recovery diode, a zener diode and transistor that can fail from heat.
On the main board I replaced five capacitors. The capacitors can cause a hum when they dry out over time (internal heating, mostly). The originals were rated 85 degrees Celsius and of unknown quality. Two 100 uF 16v capacitors were replaced with new 25v 100uF, and two 100 uF 35v capacitors were replaced with 100 uF 50v low impedance capacitors rated for 105 degrees.
I reinforced with silicone adhesive the mounting of the small black heatsinks of three power transistors on the main board, (these heat sinks can fall off during shipping). I also reinforced the mounting of the main power relay, which can easily be damaged during shipping or installation.
I installed a 92mm 14dB Silenx fan with its own power supply that will switch on when the panel is turned on. The attached page shows how the transformer can be mounted. I noted the power supply output and the amplifiers' current drain, verifying that they are within the normal range.
Your panel is running while the fan's adhesive cures. The first few hours typically expose most instances of a (rare) defective replacement part. I'll provide a 90 day warranty. If a new component is not up to specification and does not fail immediately, it will show within the first month or two, so that should cover you to a point the panel will continue to give you good service. I recommend cleaning the metal contacts of your input cables with rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth before reconnecting your system. Oxidation and dust can build up on those surfaces over time.
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