You know, some people work weekdays! And it gets dark at around 6.45 here now so there is just 30 min of usable time weekdays. I got to stick to the weekends.
The drawback of not having a garage.
The drawback of not having a garage.
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
You know, some people work weekdays! And it gets dark at around 6.45 here now so there is just 30 min of usable time weekdays. I got to stick to the weekends.
The drawback of not having a garage.
that's odd, it still stays light out till almost 8:00 here.
Why don't you have any pictures?
Originally posted by: notfred
Originally posted by: FrustratedUser
You know, some people work weekdays! And it gets dark at around 6.45 here now so there is just 30 min of usable time weekdays. I got to stick to the weekends.
The drawback of not having a garage.
that's odd, it still stays light out till almost 8:00 here.
Why don't you have any pictures?
1. Southern Arizona gets dark pretty quick.
2. Don't have a good digicam.
I plan on finishing tomorrow and then drive to the donut shop to celebrate.
Originally posted by: tcsenter
So...you still like your 3800 engine?
At the moment I don't like it very much. :disgust: (Rub it in guys)
All was assembled Sunday and now it won't start. See first post.
JC
Diamond Member
- Feb 1, 2000
- 5,824
- 61
- 91
Firstly, glad you got it together
As far as the no-start, if it won't start tomorrow, I'd pop in a fresh set of spark plugs. Make sure you're getting spark at the plugs, too
And as far as the lower-temp thermostat, I don't recommend that. The engine is designed to run at the temp of the factory-specified stat, by using a lower-temp stat it essentially tells the computer that the engine hasn't warmed up fully. Result can be open-loop operation (lousy mileage, bad emissions).
JC
As far as the no-start, if it won't start tomorrow, I'd pop in a fresh set of spark plugs. Make sure you're getting spark at the plugs, too
And as far as the lower-temp thermostat, I don't recommend that. The engine is designed to run at the temp of the factory-specified stat, by using a lower-temp stat it essentially tells the computer that the engine hasn't warmed up fully. Result can be open-loop operation (lousy mileage, bad emissions).
JC
Thanks JC,
The engine has been running in the 200-210F range so I figured a 180F would bring it down a bit. Maybe to <200F.
I know an engine should basically run as hot as possible but I'm willing to try this for a while.
Is it easy to check for spark? Should I ground the plug to chassie to see it?
Maybe a new set is needed but I figured I should get it running before installing the new set.
The engine has been running in the 200-210F range so I figured a 180F would bring it down a bit. Maybe to <200F.
I know an engine should basically run as hot as possible but I'm willing to try this for a while.
Is it easy to check for spark? Should I ground the plug to chassie to see it?
Maybe a new set is needed but I figured I should get it running before installing the new set.
JC
Diamond Member
- Feb 1, 2000
- 5,824
- 61
- 91
Well ideally (rest of cooling system working properly) the engine should run at the temp of the tstat. Perhaps the radiator is somewhat plugged, or airflow limited (full of bugs )
As far as spark, the safest way would be to take out a plug, clip on the plug wire, and use a wire with alligator clips to ground the ground electrode. A few spins of the engine should show if there's spark.
Go ahead and try the existing plugs, but if it won't start, buy a new set.
Good luck
JC
)As far as spark, the safest way would be to take out a plug, clip on the plug wire, and use a wire with alligator clips to ground the ground electrode. A few spins of the engine should show if there's spark.
Go ahead and try the existing plugs, but if it won't start, buy a new set.
Good luck
JC
Use a radiator flushing product like the one made by Prestone (can't remember the name), run it in your system for a day or two. Flush and fill the cooling system, using 50-50 water and coolant, buy a new thermostat at the OEM rating and a new radiator cap (in case the old one has a leak), and your cooling system will be more than adequate (unless your water pump or cooling fan goes bad).
200-210'F is perfectly acceptable operating temp for an engine. If you want to decrease the operating temp by 5-10'F, try a product called Water Wetter made by Redline. It will usually do the trick.
Finally the car is running again! (see update)
Around $300 in parts and tools. A total saving of $1100 that can be used for other fun stuff.
(see update)Around $300 in parts and tools. A total saving of $1100 that can be used for other fun stuff.
I've been lazy and not neffed up this thread to the top. LOL!
Next mod will be dual turbo with 2 bar of boost, .... j/k
Originally posted by: Evadman
I have a 3800 supercharger sitting here with your name on it. But you would have to change out the intake manifold again
I would love to have the supercharger (240hp, LSS trim) but I guess some other mods are needed then. Such as new pistons and chips for ther ECS and so on.
So I'll have to say no. Thanks anyway. I'm happy as it is. It's running again!!!!
Yeah, like different:
-heads
-throttle body
-intake manifold
-fuel rails
-fuel injectors
-fuel pump
-pistons and rods
-transmission (4T65E "HD")
-Recalibrated PCM.....just to name a few.
Originally posted by: tcsenter
Yeah, like different:
-heads
-throttle body
-intake manifold
-fuel rails
-fuel injectors
-fuel pump
-pistons and rods
-transmission (4T65E "HD")
-Recalibrated PCM.....just to name a few.
A complete engine change looks easier. probably possible to get a complete unit from a junkyard (rear-ended car) for ~$2000
I like the idea though! The perfect sleeper.
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