This is a VERY good question, one I'm asked frequently, and it takes a lot of time to answer each time, so I'm posting the answer in the open forum.
Easier to link it it that way...
This will take a fairly complicated explanation, so bear with me please...
The ignition coil is 'Saturated' by running current through the primary side wiring.
'Saturation' doesn't mean 'Charging', coils don't charge, they have no capacity to store electrons.
'Saturation' means the primary winding have developed a full size magnetic field (electro-magnet) and that magnetic field has 'Saturated' all parts of the ignition coil windings.
.................
Now that you have a Magnetically 'Saturated' coil,
You open the primary circuit,
(breaker points opening, or module opening the primary circuit)
And that magnetic field collapses around the iron core in the center of the coil.
In the process, that magnetic field moves through the SECONDARY WINDINGS.
Moving Magnetic fields through a conductor, in this case, the secondary windings, excites electrons in the copper of the windings, and creates your high voltage discharge.
.....................
Your ignition coil is a 'Transformer'.
It 'Transforms' a 12 volt electrical charge into a Magnetic Field.
When the current is cut, it 'Transforms' the Magnetic Field into High Voltage by moving the Magnetic Field through many more windings than the 12 volt coil had.
(with modern E-core coils, around 85:1. That means for every turn of the 12 volt primary coil, the secondary has 85 turns)
............................
That high voltage WILL find a ground... Period. (more on that in a minute)
The voltage will continue to rise in the secondary windings,
As that magnetic field continues to collapse through it,
Until the voltage becomes sufficient to jump any air gap, or through any insulation to find ground!
Once the process is started, it can't be stopped, and the coil secondary voltage WILL CONTINUE TO INCREASE until it is sufficient to find ground. PERIOD.
By opening up the plug gap, (Widening the air gap) you are forcing the secondary voltage to continue to rise until it reaches levels that will jump that larger gap.
And believe me, the voltage created in modern E-core coils WILL find a ground!
SO,
You increase the gap, and the voltage has to build more to jump that gap...
In the process, the voltage goes up, but there is no free lunch, and that extra energy for extra voltage has to come from somewhere, so the AMPERAGE is traded for Voltage.
AMPERAGE IS THE 'HEAT' in the spark, not increased Voltage.
When you generate a welding arc, it's not the voltage, but the Amperage that creates the 'HEAT' in the transfer.
Most welders operate at 25 volts or less, but at ranges around 100 Amps!
Anything over about 35,000 volts will fire the spark plug gap in a gasoline engine, even with a lean mixture,
And that is achievable at about 0.045".
Much over that and you are wasting amperage to make more voltage.
Going over that 35,000 volts is wasting AMPERAGE the coil has to convert into Voltage for the larger gaps...
............
Voltage and Amperage have been covered, but there is a third component of spark energy you should consider also,
DURATION. How Long the spark lasts in the gap.
This is usually a component of coil design.
IF the coil is designed to shape and control the collapse of the magnetic field correctly, the duration will be longer...
BUT,
It's also effected directly by the Firing voltage required to get the arc started.
Look at it this way,
You have a LONG discharge coil, but if the first 2/3 of the discharge is wasted building excess voltage to jump a huge gap, you are down to 1/3 of the firing time this coil could provide.
So excess Voltage wastes both Amperage and Duration...
And jacking open the plug gap too far will only result in a thin, 'thready', low amprage (low 'Heat') white or yellow spark (depending on how much moisture is in the air)...
You will be MUCH better off with a 'Thick' blue spark that lingers in the gap.
This is an indicator of both good duration, and sufficient amprage in the discharge.
These are general rules, for guys that don't have Oscilloscopes and adapters for those kinds of voltages to check out what the spark is doing...
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Here is something else to think about,
If you get the gap TOO big, or you have some other restrictions in the secondary high voltage system,
Excess gap between the center button in the distributor cap and rotor, excess gap between the rotor and plug wire terminals, rotor phasing out of time and the rotor is between plug wire terminals, bad plug wires with large air gaps, ect...
OR,
Some dip stick just decides to pull the coil wire or a spark plug wire off for this or that without using a test plug...
The voltage in the coil SHOOTS TO THE MOON!
E-core coils can easily produce over 100,000 volts when the secondary path is 'Open'...
That coils IS GOING TO DISCHARGE, PERIOD! NO MATTER WHAT.
Since you don't have a controlled path for it to follow,
It's going to discharge in an UNCONTROLLED MANNER...
This means blasting through it's own insulation internally in most cases.
This will ruin a few windings each time this happens, so you may not notice right away... But that coil is DAMAGED every time there is an uncontrolled secondary discharge, and the effects are cumulative. They build up over time...
SO,
NEVER LET YOUR COIL DISCHARGE WITH OUT A CONTROLLED GROUND PATH!
Test plug made from an old spark plug and a piece of wire is fine, don't pull plug wires or coil wires...