Would it be possible to clip the extra 4 pin molex's/sata cables, and attach a male piece to one end of the cable and a female to the other, essentially removing excess cables, or would this just mess up the whole thing?
Just an odd thought
- Thread starter alphawolf010
- Start date
You mean to basically shorten the cable, but seperating it into "sections?"
You COULD do this, but it would be much simpler to clip the end off a cable, clip the cable shorter (for example, at the half way point), and then reattached the end to the shortened piece by soldering the wires back to their proper place.
However, this could get very messy, and some cables have VERY sensitive wires that could be easily damaged and hard to reattach. Overall, you're risking severe hardware damage, and possible harm to yourself if you don't reattach everything properly.
If you don't believe me about that last statement, look up what happens if you switch the polarity on a capacitor with a good amount of voltage applied.
You COULD do this, but it would be much simpler to clip the end off a cable, clip the cable shorter (for example, at the half way point), and then reattached the end to the shortened piece by soldering the wires back to their proper place.
However, this could get very messy, and some cables have VERY sensitive wires that could be easily damaged and hard to reattach. Overall, you're risking severe hardware damage, and possible harm to yourself if you don't reattach everything properly.
If you don't believe me about that last statement, look up what happens if you switch the polarity on a capacitor with a good amount of voltage applied.
well, as long as I dont have to rip apart the molex connector, I should be able to do this....but gonna wait a while (when I can afford a new psu/med bills)
also can this be done to change a 4 pin fan to a 3 pin fan (kinda doubt it)
also can this be done to change a 4 pin fan to a 3 pin fan (kinda doubt it)
You are better off using a fan adapter or just getting a 3 pin fan. Some fans draw too much power from the motherboard fan headers and can burn them out. Sonetimes that's why the fan had a 4 pin on it.
I love the remark about being able to afford a new PSU and med Bills! Haha
Always be careful and double check your work.
I've done some wire work before (shortened fan cables + soldered back together) with no real issues, but the fact of 480 watts goin thru my body isnt all that much fun. I'll try it eventually while I clean up my case (p180) and try and fix the bulges in the side and door. If anyone has a good idea for this outside of sending it back I'd greatly appreciate it....considering a syringe with 2 part epoxy in it squeezed behind it and clamped till hardened.
You sound like an excellent candidate for a modular PSU. It'll cost you some money, but your continued ability to live will be assured.
You could do this with the 4-pin power cables that end in Molex connectors, although you would want to get a proper Molex pin extractor kit. The female (device-side) Molex connectors are something of a challenge to find for sale. It might be easier to just cut the excess cable, pull the Molex connectors and reattach them to the new shorter cables. If you end up needing longer cables later, you can buy cable extenders.
But no, those cables aren't particularly fragile or easy to screw up.
My suggestion would be to save yourself the trouble and just zip-tie the excess cable out of the way. It might come in handy later.
The type of 4-pin fan that connects to a Molex connector? Yes, you could simply rewire such a fan. Some models may draw more current than the average motherboard cares to supply.
No one wire has that much available and you wouldn't be cutting on them when they are live anyway. But if you want a modular PSU, might as well buy one in the first place...
. You can get shells and contacts to put a 3-pin fan connector on a fan that comes with only the 4-pin (drive power type) connectors on it - I do it all the time. Action-electronics.com carries them at a better price than most, especially in small quantities. It would be nice to have a crimp tool if you are going to do much of it and jab-tech.com has a nice one for a good price - it does most of the typical contacts you find in a PC.
.bh.
. You can get shells and contacts to put a 3-pin fan connector on a fan that comes with only the 4-pin (drive power type) connectors on it - I do it all the time. Action-electronics.com carries them at a better price than most, especially in small quantities. It would be nice to have a crimp tool if you are going to do much of it and jab-tech.com has a nice one for a good price - it does most of the typical contacts you find in a PC.
.bh.
Blah, thats too much work....guess I'll save for a decent modular psu. Any suggestions?
My current PSU is a tagan 480w, and it's done me good, but too many cables, hence why I wanted to clip it. Will it be tough enough to handle a 640mb 8800gts?
My current PSU is a tagan 480w, and it's done me good, but too many cables, hence why I wanted to clip it. Will it be tough enough to handle a 640mb 8800gts?
What you are talking about is essentially the same principle as the old "Y-Splitters" that were used if there were not enough cables available. This approach works for low wattage / current devices that are not sensitive to voltage droop, for example fans.
Typically, the kind of connector daisy-chaining you have in mind adds somewhere in the order of 100-200 milli-Ohm resistance to the cable (depending on how good your connection is and how efficient your crimping etc is). Voltage droops with the product of resistance and current. That is, if you run 5A through that connector, your voltage drop on the other end will be 0.1x5 (0.5V) to 0.2x5 (1V), meaning that instead of 5V you have 4V, instead of 12V, you'll have 11V. Not a good situation for the device that you are trying to power.
Professional Y splitters are usually a bit better, most of the ones used for example as SATA adapters will work fine, especially since the load is relatively low. Those that are used for PCIe graphics cards are typlically using 2 inputs so the resistance will be decreased (parallel resistors) and the current going through each connection will be split.
Essentially all power supplies that are in the market place have their cables configured in a way that is known to the core and with increasing load / current. the PSU will compensate for the droop, but if you change things yourself, all bets are off.
Hope this helps.
LostCircuits... the place where hardware lives
Typically, the kind of connector daisy-chaining you have in mind adds somewhere in the order of 100-200 milli-Ohm resistance to the cable (depending on how good your connection is and how efficient your crimping etc is). Voltage droops with the product of resistance and current. That is, if you run 5A through that connector, your voltage drop on the other end will be 0.1x5 (0.5V) to 0.2x5 (1V), meaning that instead of 5V you have 4V, instead of 12V, you'll have 11V. Not a good situation for the device that you are trying to power.
Professional Y splitters are usually a bit better, most of the ones used for example as SATA adapters will work fine, especially since the load is relatively low. Those that are used for PCIe graphics cards are typlically using 2 inputs so the resistance will be decreased (parallel resistors) and the current going through each connection will be split.
Essentially all power supplies that are in the market place have their cables configured in a way that is known to the core and with increasing load / current. the PSU will compensate for the droop, but if you change things yourself, all bets are off.
Hope this helps.
LostCircuits... the place where hardware lives
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