Should have went with a well build USB DAC (plenty in under $1000 range), that D1 DAC was a joke. For example, DACmini, which aesthetically goes well with Apple designs.
If we're being serious, that
is about 4.5 times the price, and it does look pretty well designed, from a high-level view.
For that kind of money, I'd want to know what's in it, myself, though. Also, the idea of paying for things like low output resistance (any circuit that needs more than 3-5 Ohms on the headphone out is flawed, IMO, and they never do mention anything about the amp used--class A means very little, when it comes to headphones), gain (I'm a fan of unity for 2VRMS, but it's just soldering different resistors, and could easily be switched), and not muting (also should be a switch). TBH, though, if I were going to spend that money, I'd just build up a tricked out Gamma-2, or spartan Buffalo.
USB DAC doesn't mean jack. You can't have jitter-free "perfect" sound. And there are no set-in-stone perfect sound as each combination of audio components have their unique sound signatures. People have different preferences. This maybe a good learning curve for many of you folks.

Read that article I linked above.
You're getting far from jitter-free perfect sound from the onboard MBP DAC, though. In fact, if you can hear anything from the computer (like those pops and whatnot), you are certainly getting mountains of non-random jitter, on top of the rectified RF you're actually hearing. Technically, jitter-free will never happen, but like the noise floor, you want it to be very low and purely random.
The best solution there by far is a DAC with a very high internal clock, which interpolates the signal into high sample rates (making most jitter just a light loss in noise floor, which you can't hear), and also internally reclocks (buffering the signal, and adjusting its speed to the DAC to match the average clock length of the incoming signal, so that most non-random jitter from the digital source is removed). Quite a few transceiver and DAC chips can do those things internally (even low-end ones in $40 DVD players are doing this stuff, these days). The real trick is giving them a low-noise environment to do it, which is what a well-implemented USB and/or SPDIF DAC really gives you, over most internal devices (a good DAC is often a $2 chip with a $50 clock and $100 PSU

).
Both USB and SPDIF pretty well suck as audio transports, but teams of engineers, many of whom are audio geeks, have helped make them work pretty well.