JLee's '99 Tacoma build thread

[JCH13]

I agree w/ 50/50 mix, it's pretty sweet. It is basically Kroil, only Kroil is better because it has less odor. Kroil knocks the socks off of PB Blaster, hands down. I used to be a big fan of PB Blaster too.

 

[5.0inaYota]

Nice, I will have to try out the 50/50 mix or some Kroil, I haven't ever seen it around here but when I get a chance I will have to order some. PB Blaster is everywhere so that's why I use it, but if there is even better stuff I will definitely be all over it! Thanks guys.:thumbsup:

 

[Throckmorton]

I would say that mixing random chemicals that you heard about on a forum seems like a bad idea. Just use the PB Blaster!

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

I would say that mixing random chemicals that you heard about on a forum seems like a bad idea. Just use the PB Blaster!

EDIT: disregard this post

 

[JCH13]

I would say that mixing random chemicals that you heard about on a forum seems like a bad idea. Just use the PB Blaster!

I would say that you don't know what you're talking about.

 

[marcbmx1]

DO NOT go through that misery and not replace ALL of your control arm bushings while you're in there!! (Go OEM, Not Poly's in the Control Arms. Poly in my steering rack is the only place up front that has panned out better than stock.)

 

[jlee]

Thanks for the tip. I might do the rack bushings and tie rod ends so I can get it aligned, and pick up bushings for when I do the ball joints.

Edit: $128 in RockAuto parts prices. Damn, OEM is going to suck. Are Moog/Raybestos good enough?

 

[JCH13]

DO NOT go through that misery and not replace ALL of your control arm bushings while you're in there!! (Go OEM, Not Poly's in the Control Arms. Poly in my steering rack is the only place up front that has panned out better than stock.)

Why is OEM better than poly?

 

[manimal]

Why is OEM better than poly?

Was going to ask same question. Is it from a comfort standpoint?

 

[jlee]

I just priced OEM bushings...at $40+/each, needing eight, I might just decide that the ones in there are still good. :hmm:

 

[exdeath]

OEM bushings... might as well stuff the bushing shells with toilet paper...

 

[jlee]

So I decided this might come in handy someday.

:whiste:

 

[Zargon]

nice!

 

[manimal]

 

[jlee]

$50.

:awe:

 

[marcbmx1]

NM

 

[JCH13]

I'm not scientist or some OEM enthusiast. It's purely trial and error, with a TON of internet/forum research. Poly's only last about 50k miles in the Tacoma control arms, while the OEM rubber is lasting about twice that.

Look it up before bashing on my input!

That reason makes sense, and is a good reason to get OEM bushings.

Asking you to justify your suggestion is NOT bashing it. I merely afforded you the opportunity to show that some thought, knowledge, and/or research went into it. I reserve my right to be skeptical of the advice of someone with no reputation and 1 post on AT.

And no, I won't go look up information to determine the reasoning for your suggestion. You're the one who knows something, you should share it with us/OP, and provide a link or two if you can.

 

[marcbmx1]

NM

 

[jlee]

Its not a jlee build thread until there's a lift kit, 35's and a blower involved

So......


I want to do this, this, and this, with likely a set of Alcan rear leafs and maybe extended length Bilstein rear shocks (or remote reservoir Fox, if I find a money tree). But that'll be a while. :whiste:

Today I flushed the clutch fluid and most of the brake fluid (ran out, oops) and rotated tires. In the last few months I have replaced the alternator, starter, and recharged the AC.

We're at..274k now, I think. Still going strong.

Next on the list is a new stereo..there's a really old and halfway broken Pioneer deck in there now. Then I'll start shopping for a cheap set of (hopefully OE Toyota) 16" wheels so I can do the Tundra brake upgrade. I may go with a rear add-a-leaf instead of new leaf packs ($77.50 vs $350-600), but my old Alcan springs rode SO nicely...that I might just wait a while and do that. Dunno.


Edit:
I've done some thinking and research. Here's my plan:
First, Icon remote reservoir shocks that are good for 0-3" of lift (on sale at a couple places for $445/free shipping this weekend). A bit later, I can put a set of these on - Old Man Emu Dakar springs with a set of Wheeler's Superbumps. That should take care of my suspension until I want some srsface kickass coilovers up front. Then when I need tires, I can go to 16's and Tundra brakes. I am tempted, though, to get a set of Porterfield pads and see if I can make these brakes acceptable - I do like having cheaper 15" tires available (vs 16's).

 

[jlee]

Installed new stuff.

Used ratchet straps to align the axle with the spring - bumpstops are allegedly unnecessary with OME springs due to the overloads:

I discovered I had no battery tie down rod, which caused the battery to bounce around - sent a nice spark through the fender/hood gap the other night. So, I fixed that using the retainers that OME used to hold the shocks in a compressed state for shipping:

I measured a 4" gain in the back. It should settle some, though.

I briefly tried to adjust the coilovers on the truck, but they're pretty seized up. I'll either have to disassemble them first, try soaking them in lube for a while, or just replace them with Icons. wtb winning lottery ticket.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

thats better.
Good height for that truck.

 

[jlee]

Yep. I like it. I'm in the market for 16" wheels and some 285/75R16 tires, but that'll be a little while yet. I did price out Tundra brakes - I can upgrade my fronts for $233.95+tax (from Amazon); that's new pads, rotors, and calipers. However, I need bigger wheels to clear them.

 

[jlee]

I installed a longer brake line today - I'm using a spring to pull the slack out horizontally so it doesn't catch on anything. I was going to run the spring from the bed crossbrace, but then the brake line would be touching either the wire bundle going to the rear diff, or the rod for the rear proportioning valve. I went a bit longer than necessary, but I should never have to worry about it being too short. It's a very gentle spring, so I am not worried about it upsetting the proportioning valve by having it attached there.

Next will be the proportioning valve bracket - waiting for paint to dry on a piece of flat stock.

I also added a helper spring to my parking brake bracket, but I'm not sure if that merits a picture.

 

[tortillasoup]

What ever you do, don't clean the throttle body. You can clean the IACV but do NOT clean the throttle body. What will end up happening is that you'll end up with a large vacuum leak as the "gunk" in the throttlebody helps seal it up. If you have any idle issues or something to that effect and the throttle can be actuated with ease, just clean or replace the IACV but do not clean near the butterfly valve/area around it. (IACV is attached to throttlebody) This is a super common issue especially for the V6 Tacomas of this generation and I just spent a lot of time trying to fix this issue because a friend had his throttlebody cleaned at a shop and they unwittingly created this issue and weren't able to solve it.

 

[jlee]

Interesting. Good to know - so there's factory sealant in the throttle body instead of regular gaskets?