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JLee's 1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo build thread

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@Alkemyst


I really can't understand what you are doing in his thread besides causing troubles. Instead of coming off like a douche, maybe you should try congratulating him on the stand up job he's doing while having fun and making friends with people on here. Nobody is gonna appreciate your knowledge of cars in here cause you can spout off a few relevant terminologies regarding the topic. However, I can see many people asking Jlee's opinions cause he can walk the walk. We are all very proud that you can literally climb into the engine bay and work on a primitive muscle car or go to autozone and "cutom bend" some brake lines for your Ford Granada. How does a Hemi (pronounced HIMI) work? It jussss does.
 
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@Alkemyst

I come ATG because I have, until now, found a lot of encouraging comments, and uplifting attitudes towards other peoples work. You seem bound and determined to put down others whilst raising yourself to a pedestal. I commend Jlee for his work not only because he has the knowledge to do what he’s doing but also because he comes across as a straight forward, honest, down to earth and all around 'cool' guy. This is evident in his ability to admit fault. You on the other hand, though you may be smarter and more experienced than the rest of us, just come across as an asshole because you consistently rub it in our faces and put us down.

I forget who has it in their signature, but I think it fully applies here
Experience is knowing you were an idiot.
Common sense is trying not be an idiot.
Wisdom is knowing that you will still be an idiot.
 
Over many years and hundreds of thousands of miles, the clutch pedal / clevis mounting hole can wear out. The stock design was a plastic sleeve with a pin running through it, so over time the plastic would wear out and then you had the metal pin contacting the pedal directly, eventually elongating the round hole. As you can imagine, this isn't exactly good for the feel of the clutch pedal. It causes slop, squeaks, and general unpleasantness. Chico Race Works produced a kit to solve this problem.

Here's what my pedal looked like:
clutchpedalwear.jpg


Here are the clevises - old and new:
clutchpedalclevises.jpg


Instead of a sleeve, CRW sourced a bearing:
clutchpedalbearing.jpg


The bearing doesn't quite fit, though, so some modification is required:
clutchpedaldrilling.jpg


Problem solved.
clutchpedalbearingfit.jpg


Before I reinstalled it, I put a slight bevel on the edges of the hole (using a step drill), just to finish it off a little better (not that it matters too much, but still):
clutchpedalbevel.jpg


The hole had actually elongated so much over the years that even with the larger hole, it still wasn't perfectly round - but it's close enough to work. The clutch pedal feels SO much better now - definitely worth a few bucks and an hour or so of my time. 🙂
 
Wow, you know you're dedicated to an older high mileage car when you're doing repairs like that.

I'm waiting for my Supra to get transported up to us here in Maine, I've got a lot of similar stuff to do. Things that Toyota did not envision because they probably assumed we wouldn't be dumb enough to still have them on the road.

What did you use to enlarge the hole?
 
Wow, you know you're dedicated to an older high mileage car when you're doing repairs like that.

I'm waiting for my Supra to get transported up to us here in Maine, I've got a lot of similar stuff to do. Things that Toyota did not envision because they probably assumed we wouldn't be dumb enough to still have them on the road.

What did you use to enlarge the hole?
I used the drill bit partially visible in the 2nd pic - IIRC it's a 31/64.

How far out in Maine? Check the New England thread. 😀
 
I used the drill bit partially visible in the 2nd pic - IIRC it's a 31/64.

How far out in Maine? Check the New England thread. 😀

I was more interested in what sort of material the bit was made of, sorry 🙂 I don't have any metal bits.

We're in Saco and I commute into Dover every day. Actually, I just responded to your PM from right before I went on vacation. Sorry about that.
 
I was more interested in what sort of material the bit was made of, sorry 🙂 I don't have any metal bits.

We're in Saco and I commute into Dover every day. Actually, I just responded to your PM from right before I went on vacation. Sorry about that.

Oh, oops. I used this.
 
See sig 😉

@ Alky

If you had one build thread, one how-to, one helpful post that didn't piss all over someone you might have an ounce of credibility.

OH! but I have and all have gone to shit and then deleted. I don't really 'document' my work most of the time. Even my current car I really stopped posting stuff as I have better use of my time elsewhere lately.

Just about any post I make ends up with trolls.

I want to buy the E46 M3 just to make a few of them cry as I out-douchebag them at their own game. Problem is that fucking car is getting pounded on down here by teenagers and young 20 dudes that still work as a 'manager'.

I just can't slut myself out that much.

if you want to discuss it further make a new thread or something, I am not going to post again here unless directly called out again.
 
I was more interested in what sort of material the bit was made of, sorry 🙂 I don't have any metal bits.

We're in Saco and I commute into Dover every day. Actually, I just responded to your PM from right before I went on vacation. Sorry about that.

Drill bits for real metal work can be very expensive. For soft metals, not so bad.

The main problem with drill bits and metal is them breaking off.

With metal it's best to go slow most of the time with a lot of lube. Going fast creates a lot of issues.

with wood you can go fast and if you did try to do slow it would cause problems.

edit: thought I was in a different thread.
 
While they can be really expensive to buy a whole set, I definitely recommend spending the money on a good drill bit for drilling through steel... it will prevent walking, and save you from burning through countless burnt out cheap bits. A good set of HSS (High Speed Steel) or Cobalt drill bits can be very expensive, but to buy a couple individual drill bits can be pretty affordable (you can usually get all the sizes you need for one particular job for $5-$20 online) and will save you many headaches. If you're using a hand power drill you definitely want to get the shortest bit you can that will work for your application, that will make life easier

Alky is right about low rpm + cutting oil

The one JLEE posted is a good type of drill bit for drilling through metal, that's exactly what I'm talking about. Even partial sets are usually 200+ so just buy the bit you need! (Or another tip is check out craigslist or local sales/flea markets for old machinist's tools and try to pick up a full set!)
 
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Sorry to hijack the thread jlee, but alkemyst can forget about the M3/SRT8/CTS-V/Enzo or whatever he read about this week. This is surely his ride.
high_horse.jpg
 
What has that got to do with JLee's build thread? Stop stinking it up with your insecurities.

I nominate Alkemyst as President of the Keyboard Mechanics' Bench Racing Club.

You said out "douchebag someone" I forgot I wasn't replying to this thread.

Unsubscribing now.
 
The Time-Sert kit came in yesterday. Much faster than I expected! I'll pick up a new stud from Toyota tomorrow and get this thing back together.
 
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