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JCH13 - Turbo Miata Rehab Thread

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satyajitmenon said:
Do it. And then sell it to me...

Pretty please?
Click to expand...

How deep are your pockets?

:awe:

FuzzyDunlop said:
wow nice work!

Do you mind doing a write up on electrolosis... or at least providing a link. Im really curious to see how well it works. I will also have a tonne of parts like those to de-rust and paint.
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http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

This site says "use cleaning soda" and a number of write-ups say "don't use baking soda" but a number of other write-ups say "use baking soda." My understanding of battery chemistry says that any salt will work.

Warnings (not a comprehensive list):

DO NOT use table salt. It will make chlorine gas in addition to hydrogen gas. Chlorine gas is poisonous. When Chlorine and hydroden react you'll get hydrochloric acid, which will make you a sad panda when it dissolves the parts you're trying to de-rust, then melt your hand when you try to get them out.

DO NOT use a stainless steel electrode. It will release hexavalent chromium and kill you, and anyone around you, through your lungs. You will then explode at your funeral and kill everyone who ever loved you. So just don't do it.

It will produce hydrogen gas and oxygen. Be well ventilated.
 
nice. please post as many pictures on all the bushing removals and etc. I do plan on getting a miata shortly and well chicago winters are just as bad. So i'll be dealing with the same things.
 
T2urtle said:
nice. please post as many pictures on all the bushing removals and etc. I do plan on getting a miata shortly and well chicago winters are just as bad. So i'll be dealing with the same things.
Click to expand...

Those couple pics are really all that's needed to describe how I removed them, it took around an hour to do all four arms. I will definitely post more when I go to install them. I will likely use a press, though the bushings could be installed with threaded rod in the same way they were removed, just pulling the bushing in, instead of pulling it out.
 
actually where did you get that threaded rod.

HF has a wheel bearing tool, its a threaded rod and some cups. I needed it to do a bearing but i just took the spindle to a shop to press.

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

That threaded rod didn't look remotely close to being long enough. I dont think i can just walk into home depot and get a threaded rod and nuts or can i ? I'm thinking i saw something like that for plumbing, mounting toliets.
 
T2urtle said:
actually where did you get that threaded rod.

HF has a wheel bearing tool, its a threaded rod and some cups. I needed it to do a bearing but i just took the spindle to a shop to press.

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-front-wheel-bearing-adapters-66829.html

That threaded rod didn't look remotely close to being long enough. I dont think i can just walk into home depot and get a threaded rod and nuts or can i ? I'm thinking i saw something like that for plumbing, mounting toliets.
Click to expand...

I got mine at a local hardware store, just plain old threaded rod and nuts, both plated. Plan on using a bunch of grease to keep the threads from galling after 1-2 uses (they will eventually), expect some failures, and to throw away everything when you're done.
 
Working on it, my responsibilities as an FRC head coach will be cramping my style for the next six weeks, sadly.
 
So the electrolysis did a great job of lifting off most of the heavy rust. Unfortunately you have to dry the parts REALLY quickly afterwards otherwise they develop a shit load of surface rust, like this:

iccHu.jpg


I'll zap them all again right before I'm going to paint them. I'll rise them and then dry them in an oven before de-greasing and painting them.
 
steel wool should clean most of that surface bit off shouldnt have to go back in. and then hit it with chassis paint and oil the insides of the arms and you should she be good to go.
 
Howard said:
Try wiping them down with an oiled cloth? Or spraying them with a lube while they're still wet?
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That's SOP for post-electrolysis parts, though I want to paint them, so the lube/oil would be very counterproductive I think.

Black2na said:
steel wool should clean most of that surface bit off shouldnt have to go back in. and then hit it with chassis paint and oil the insides of the arms and you should she be good to go.
Click to expand...

That's what Bonky suggested also, it's looking more and more tempting. Probably will do.
 
JCH13 said:
So the electrolysis did a great job of lifting off most of the heavy rust. Unfortunately you have to dry the parts REALLY quickly afterwards otherwise they develop a shit load of surface rust, like this:

iccHu.jpg


I'll zap them all again right before I'm going to paint them. I'll rise them and then dry them in an oven before de-greasing and painting them.
Click to expand...

Spray em down with brake clean right after and wipe. Should make it easier.
 
It might be time to buy a bench grinder and wire wheel to help clean everything off... including the pile of iffy bolts I've got.
 
Nice score on all the extra Miata suspension/ drivetrain parts. Now in true GRM form keep what you need then sell the rest to zero out what you spent.

Electrolysis is awesome. That’s how most of the small brackets and pulleys were cleaned up. If you still have some light surface rust that’s not a bad thing because POR-15 will actually bond better to rust then if the surface was perfectly clean.

FYI the crank seal, cam seals, timing belt, and water pump were all done in 2009.
 
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JCH13 said:
^That. POR15.
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cool. My order of POR15 "Rust Paint" and 'Chassis Coat" came in the mail today - a sweet 3 days after ordering! I also bought a cheap wall mounted oven ($35) for baking items dry after I electrolyse them. Just need to wire it up to my 220v outlet and Ill be set to copy/paste your parts cleaning technique!
 
Rear subframe was stripped, as much as I could. Some places got to shiny metal. Pics to follow when I finally pull it out and deal with it.

POR15 is on the way.
 
Ordered a bunch of stainless steel tubing bends, straight tube, fittings, flanges, and a flex section to make a downpipe and test pipe to go with the Flyin' Miata turbo exhaust I've got. Also have a down-pipe transmission mount for the exhaust to help brace the turbo manifold.

I have a full service kit for the engine to install this weekend: timing belt, tensioner pulleys, tensioner springs, valve cover seal, CAS seal, water pump, water pump gasket, front main seal and installer tool, and a few other bits and pieces.

Black2NA will be helping out with bodywork, starting with Flyin' Miata frame rails and repairing the original frame rail that's busted. Hopefully also fixing the rusty trunk issue too.

Finally getting going, hopefully I'll be back out on the road when mud season is over. I've decided to limit the scope of my work and push off some of the non-critical things so I can actually drive it this spring and summer.
 
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