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JCH13 - Turbo Miata Build/Auto-X Prep - UPDATE 4/29/2011 MOAR VIDEO!

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What exhaust style should I get?

  • Ethuzacar Single 2.5" Exhaust

  • Flyin' Miata Dual 2.5" Exhaust

Results are only viewable after voting.
ballmode said:
Like this thread and that MR2 turbo, I'm seeing people going through all the processes of installing a turbo on cars I would have loved to have done it to.
Click to expand...

Hopefully we'll be able to race them in the next couple of months 😛
 
shabby said:
Are those the cheap chinese knock offs with super glued compressor covers? Or are they real garrett turbos?
You could of easily bough a used 14b from a dsm for $150, new 16g's are $500.
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They are most definitely knock-offs... but the compressor cover is bolted on, not glued. They seem to be of reasonable quality. Again, this car doesn't see more that 6,000 miles a year or so, so a cheap turbo will last a good number of years.

I will be explicit now: this is a BUDGET BUILD. I am in it to have fun wrenching on my car. If I wanted to "do it right" I would have written a check to Flyin' Miata for $5,300 to get an FM II Hydra Turbo Kit.
 
Looks like a load of fun!
I was thinking of trying on a Miata for a different purpose. I would convert it to batteries for a commuter. Get one with a serious engine problem to reduce the guilt factor 😛
 
skyking said:
Looks like a load of fun!
I was thinking of trying on a Miata for a different purpose. I would convert it to batteries for a commuter. Get one with a serious engine problem to reduce the guilt factor 😛
Click to expand...

Well, there are plenty out there with 200k+ miles, especially '90s and '91s with the short-nose crank issue, that would be perfect for that. Go for it.
 
Imported said:
Any plans for what you're going to do with the suspension?
Click to expand...

Right now it's rocking KYB-AGX shocks with coilover sleeves to corner-balance, an upgraded front sway bar, 400lb-in springs in front, 300lb-in springs in the rear, and NB front shock mounts.

The only thing I'm planning for this season is to put NB mounts in the rear and get a more aggressive alignment and maybe corner balance.
 
JCH13 said:
:awe::awe::awe:

In unrelated news I have ordered new intake manifold bolts and studs. Those of you familiar with my escapades will remember that I herp-a-derped and torqued the intake bolts to 35lb-ft when their spec is 17lb-ft and broke one off. I am replacing all of them to be on the safe side.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't even use a torque wrench for that low a setting. It's beyond a 1/4" range and too low on a 3/8" to be accurate. Ive snapped a few bolts and striped a few threads waiting for the click that never came with the correct torque setting. I just do it by hand and give it a good snug after I feel the gasket finish compressing.
 
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exdeath said:
I wouldn't even use a torque wrench for that low a setting. It's beyond a 1/4" range and too low on a 3/8" to be accurate. Ive snapped a few bolts and striped a few threads waiting for the click that never came with the correct torque setting. I just do it by hand and give it a good snug after I feel the gasket finish compressing.
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If memory serves I have a short 3/8ths drive torque wrench that hits that range (but I'll have to double-check). I work with a former A&P mechanic who's got all the fancy calibrated snap-on torque wrenches you could ever want, if it comes down to it i'll borrow one from him. :thumbsup:
 
JCH13 said:
They are most definitely knock-offs... but the compressor cover is bolted on, not glued. They seem to be of reasonable quality. Again, this car doesn't see more that 6,000 miles a year or so, so a cheap turbo will last a good number of years.
Click to expand...

6k miles? I wish you good luck, i doubt they'll survive one autocross run under full load, there's a reason you paid only 200 for both of them.
 
JLee and I loaded up his FXT with parts on Sunday and headed off to the barn, where my Miata is being stored, to get a few things done. I brought:
-aluminum radiator
-radiator hoses
-new turbo
-new horns

3t2fj.jpg


So we set off, wondering what the hell is that noise that JLee's FXT is making?

Got to the barn, uncovered the Miata, and got to work. First thing first, we pulled the hard top and the driver's seat to make accessing the heater core easier.

Easier is a relative comparison.

It was easier that pulling the dash, gauges, airbags, and console on a 20 year old car, perhaps. Unfortunately even us moderately sized adults need to use the "inverted lotus work position" to get under the dash. See picture below.

1WTJN.jpg


But, after an hour or so of cramped, cuss-filled, work under the dash, including some hacksawing, I emerged victorious. For the record: it sucks cutting through copper pipe with a hacksaw using 1 inch strokes. Cramped under there you use muscles you never know you had.

XFp4S.jpg


While I was cursing like a sailor under the dash, JLee re-clocked the intake and center section angles on the turbo to fit the car. With some creative intake hot-pipe rerouting we got it all to fit together quite nicely. It needs the BPV actuator pressure lines sorted out, but that shouldn't be TOO hard. I hope.

HVHrw.jpg


Next it was off to confirm my diagnosis of a blown intake gasket being the cause of my wonderful coolant leak. After much creative use of socket extensions and u-joints I had the intake pulled off, and wouldn't you know it, I was right!

7cH2R.jpg

y41XD.jpg


I then used a dremel to drill a hole in an intake manifold bolt that I had snapped off last fall after reading an incorrect torque value. Used a bolt extractor in a screw driver and it came out pretty easily. You can thank JLee for the fuzzy picture 😛

lyN8x.jpg


JLee mounted the horns on a perforated rail that my IC mounts to, and I worked on running the wiring into the dash. I went to go drill a hole in my center console panel and... f*** my drill battery was dead. Well... that's why god gave us hands...

gVXBb.jpg


Next week the build continues with a new intake manifold gasket, new radiator install, and more! Stay tuned.
 
Midweek update.

Received:
-Heater Core
-Heater Hoses
-Intake bolts, studs, and nuts

On order from Summit Racing:
-Jaz Coolant recovery bottle
-Oil breather bottle

In the pipeline:
-2.5" stainless tubing and bends
-2 or 3 sets of v-band clamps
-4 to 6 exhaust hangers
-2.5"x6" flex section
-Borla Turbo Muffler

Hopefully going to be working up a 2.5" stainless turbo-back exhaust system after she's back on the road and I can drive to my buddies place who has a lift and TIG welder I can use.
 
Usually people do that when they pull an intake and try to reuse the old flattened metal gasket instead of getting a new one. It doesn't work too well, as you know already with your leak 😉 Seriously, putting a turbo on the car and can't spend $10 on a new gasket?

Carb cleaner and elbow grease and some old rags you don't mind throwing away after. That stuff, being a gasket sealer and all, is made specifically to resist fuel and solvents. Makes it a pain to clean up, especially off rough surfaces. At least regular silicone you can scrape and pick at it.
 
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exdeath said:
Usually people do that when they pull an intake and try to reuse the old flattened metal gasket instead of getting a new one. It doesn't work too well, as you know already with your leak 😉 Seriously, putting a turbo on the car and can't spend $10 on a new gasket?

Carb cleaner and elbow grease and some old rags you don't mind throwing away after. That stuff, being a gasket sealer and all, is made specifically to resist fuel and solvents. Makes it a pain to clean up, especially off rough surfaces. At least regular silicone you can scrape and pick at.
Click to expand...

I got TWO new gaskets because they were so cheap... 😛

I'll try the carb cleaner and some rags, and maybe borrow some scotch brite from work, that should be able to take it off without messing up my gasket surface. Thanks.
 
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