Ivy bridge upgrade time

[davidthemaster3]

I'm actually thinks of getting a 40 inch + TV to hang on my wall ... since my computer's in my room and I like watching movies for my computer I could just lay back on my bed and watch it on the tv ... I currently do it on my 24 inch screen and would really like a 40 inch screen.

Can anyone recommend (link?) me to a guide for displays? Computer and/or TV sets ...

 

[mfenn]

Since I want to go dual screen, should I buy this 23.6 inch Asus VH242H for 169.99$ (with a promo code)?

The VH242H is a very cost effective screen, I think that you'd be pretty happy with two in terms of bang for the buck.

 

[davidthemaster3]

I really like the case! Thanks lehtv!

I've been playing around with the computer for a while now, but I really hate the fact that the power supply is not modular

So I'm thinking of getting this OCZ ZT 650W for 79.99 AR with 20$ gift card so 59.99

I'll be putting my XFX 650W Core in my old PC which I nevergot around to buying a new power supply (old thread here) ... the Anandtech review of the 550W makes it seem good for the price

I also had terrible luck with the MIR cause everything arrived too late after the invoice date (I have to postemark everything within a week and it took two weeks+ to get here T_T), however newegg shipping is usually faster than NCIX (< week) so I'm willing to try again ...

I also bought a Gigabyte Geforce 670 GTX @419.99 can't wait to get that

 

[lehtv]

Is modularity that important to you? Maybe you didn't do a great job with cable management, can you take photos and post here? You can also roll up and tie unused cables on the floor of the case unless you've put an intake fan there.

Your old PC would probably get by easily with a smaller PSU than XFX 650W so it'd be cheaper to just replace the PSU in that one.

If you must upgrade, OCZ ZT is alright. But I'd say PCP&C MK III 600W $77 ($57 AR) is a better unit, it can do SLI with adapters. If you want to be able to OC as much as possible without having to worry about stressing the PSU too much, there's OCZ ZT750W $90 ($70 AR).

 

[davidthemaster3]

I think I did alright with cable management ... I will try to take photos of it tonight. Maybe I'm just too picky and I don't like loose cables though
However, I can't tie down the unused cables cause I did put an intake fan there

I bought 4 Gentle Typhoons 1850RPM, I didn't like the temps and since I wanted a Windforce 670 (which blows it's hot air into the case, although judging from review it doesn't get too got ), I also bought a SilverStone Air Penerator which I will be receiving next week.

How should I be placing my fans? So far, I have 2x Typhoons front intake, 1x Typhoon Side panel intake, 1x Typhoon for my 212+ in pull config, 1x Fractal case fans bottom intake ... I'm guess I should put at least one of these in exhaust, but my 212+ seems to push a good amount of air right a the back of the case, right where the rear exhaust fan should go ...

 

[davidthemaster3]

What about the OCZ Fatality 750W? 74.99 AR and with 20$ gift card, so it's slighty cheaper than the ZT version ...

I'm getting these promos from here (the prices listed are AR), and I prefer Newegg over NCIX, because the shipping's WAY faster for me (and cheaper too).

 

[lehtv]

I have my R3 set up with 140mm bottom intake, 2x 120mm front, 1x 120mm back, 1x 120mm top. Originally had 140mm on the top instead of 120mm. So five fans in total at 500-700 RPM. I also have an internally exhausting graphics card, a Gigabyte 560 Ti which consumes more power than a 670.

I think you overdid it with the multiple high RPM fans... you really only needed the stock fans plus a couple extras to optimize your airflow.

How are the Typhoons sounding? I imagine you're not getting the most out of your quiet case with 1850RPM case fans. Also, why is your 212+ in pull config instead of push?

With the available fans, I'd do this:

- return/cancel the air penetrator fan, it's simply unnecessary
- 2x typhoon front intakes
- 2x fractal design exhausts (rear+top)
- the final typhoon as backup, push-pull 212 or return it if possible

This will result in enough airflow for your setup. Get a fan splitter cable to connect both fractal design fans into one of the headers in the included little fan controller, and connect the typhoons to the remaining two headers (or the other way around, see which is better). Then tone down the noise. With the side slot closed you're blocking more noise, and with the bottom slot unused you can wrap up your cables.

 

[davidthemaster3]

I actually don't hear the Gentle Typhoons over the stock 212+ fan (which is in push config for the 212+ (forgot to mention that sorry ), so it's push CoolerMaster fan, pull Typhoon)
I plugged them into the Fractal Fan controller that comes with the case, but at max and maximum, I can't hear a difference so they are at max all the time ... however, I put the CoolerMaster 212+ stock fan on the lowest possible (~950 RPM) and I can't hear it anymore and my new computer is way quieter than the old one. It's a very low hum, which I don't find annyoing (my old old was a high pitched whine, very annoying)

 

[lehtv]

Just to confirm that the fan controller has the GT's spinning at their max RPM, have you tried connecting one of them directly to the PSU or the motherboard (with BIOS fan control disabled) for comparison?

If they're truly that quiet at 1850RPM, that's good to hear (pun intended), and it means the reputation of the Gentle Typhoons is not unfounded. I want to try them out, maybe for my next build.

In any case (another pun), I'd block the side slot and leave the bottom slot unused. You have plenty of airflow with 2x intake 2x exhaust.

 

[davidthemaster3]

I have the GT on the side panel that's connected to directly to the motherboard (the third fan plug on the fan controller does not work ) and I just noticed it was producing a whine ... so while I was loosing the screws to find out what was going on, the whine disappeared (the fan was still on the side panel but the screw were loosened up to the max), so I guess the grill on the side panel was the cause ...

Oh well, I couldn't hear the whine when it was on minimum settings and I don't really need the side intake anyways, I just wanted to see if it produced noticeably more noise with it off (at minimum settings I didn't notice).

I don't hear any whine on the two front GT intakes when they are on max from the fan controller (to actually hear them to the point where it passes my own tolerance levels, I have to get down on all fours and open up the front door).

Since I wanted to test the sound for you, I tested the GT from the side panel just plugged into the motherboard with an open case, not screwed on anything just holding it in my hands, maximum setting for the fan in bios (can't disable it fan controls, sorry). All other fans were put to a minimum.

The Asrock AXTU utility says it's at 1800-1872 RPM and it's really quiet . It does produce some sound but nothing too loud or annoying and pushes a good amount of air (not as much as the stock 212+ fan, but it's also much quieter at full speed). When it's standing up by itself on the floor, there is a soft whine, but when I pick it up it's gone. I don't think it's vibrations that are causing the whine when it's on the floor, maybe it's the intake from the (floor) side?

Oh and here are a few photos of my cabling guess I just wanted to get modular cabling and I saw a sale on newegg and just immediately wanted to purchase a new PSU, even if I didn't need one ... guess I'm just a gullible shopper (thank god I posted here before buying on impulse, thanks lehtv for saving me some cash )

I won't get rid of the fans, I really wanted good quality fans and I liked testing them like this (and I liked the fans themselves) ... maybe I'll try it out with the AP. Spare fans never hurt anyone and I got like 5 desktops at home (that are used almost daily ) so if one of those needs a fan, I'll put one in it although it will be overkill for those PCs!

 

[mfenn]

Oh and here are a few photos of my cabling guess I just wanted to get modular cabling and I saw a sale on newegg and just immediately wanted to purchase a new PSU, even if I didn't need one ... guess I'm just a gullible shopper (thank god I posted here before buying on impulse, thanks lehtv for saving me some cash )

I don't see anything horrendously wrong with your cabling job. The main issue is that the wires going to your fan controller in the PCI slot are too short to be properly routed, so a new PSU isn't going to help there. The only think your PSU cables really need are a few zip ties.

 

[davidthemaster3]

Great! Zipties it is then!

I'll update the thread when I get to it this weekend! Just so you can see what a good (or horrible) job I did

Oh, and does anybody have any links/pics of good cabling jobs? I want to see what I should be aiming for

 

[lehtv]

Oh, and does anybody have any links/pics of good cabling jobs? I want to see what I should be aiming for

I'll take a couple of photos of my R3 later on today, it's with a modular PSU but I've got a fan controller, five fans and an audio card in addition to the basics so there's no shortage of cables. I've got the bottom fan slot occupied.

 

[davidthemaster3]

I'll take a couple of photos of my R3 later on today, it's with a modular PSU but I've got a fan controller, five fans and an audio card in addition to the basics so there's no shortage of cables. I've got the bottom fan slot occupied.

oh great thanks!

 

[davidthemaster3]

Here's my new cabling job ... I didn't want to get rid of the bottom intake just yet and I relocated the fan controller which cleaned up that bit. I also added a Samsung dvd drive to the build because I didn't put one in before

I got my Air Penetrator today, so the first thing I did was test it side by side with a Fractal Fan and a Gentle Typhoon.

The Gentle Typhoons push more air and are a little bit louder, but not to much ... the issue I saw (heard?) yesterday with the GTs and whine are solely with the grills in the R3 case (back & top exhaust, bottom & side intake) so they are fine for front intakes where there are no grills.

Which is why I put the AP as an exhaust ... they suck in more air than the Fractal fans and are quieter too.

The computer right next to my feet and I don't hear anymore than yesterday when it didn't have a Fractal fan as the top exhaust The Fractal fan is average, compared to the AP and the GT.

I rank them like this :
Air blown (highest to lowest) GT > AP > Fractal
Noise (highest to lowest) GT > Fractal > AP

On a side note, I passed 35 passes of LinX with my 4.4 GHz CPU Overclock and RAM at stock ... however I did cheat for temps, because I left the case door open and a ~21 inch fan was blowing air into the computer all, while I was at work ... I know LinX brings my temps up and I wasn't comfortable leaving it run 35 passes when I wasn't there to check the temps ...

 

[lehtv]

The Air Penetrator is designed for intake, not exhaust. I find the fractal design fans quieter, and the AP's don't seem to move any more air, they just direct it in a much narrower column which is why they should only be used as intakes.

Sorry, I had to go celebrate the summer solstice yesterday, a traditional Finnish drink-your-ass-off holiday with pagan roots . Here are the cable job photos I promised http://imgur.com/a/ZeSfj#0

 

[mfenn]

Here's my new cabling job ... I didn't want to get rid of the bottom intake just yet and I relocated the fan controller which cleaned up that bit. I also added a Samsung dvd drive to the build because I didn't put one in before

A few zip ties really neatens things up!

Regarding the fan, the Air Penetrator is called that because it can push against a higher static pressure than a typical fan. Using it as exhaust pretty much nullifies that advantage. It's best application is as a push fan on a dense heatsink.

 

[davidthemaster3]

Sorry, I had to go celebrate the summer solstice yesterday, a traditional Finnish drink-your-ass-off holiday with pagan roots .

Pagan related holidays are the best for drinks

Nice cabling by the way lehtv! XD Any reason why you put the top exhaust on the far end? :O I put mine in the middle because I thought it would be to close to the rear exhaust to change anything

I used most of the cable management holes (I even managed to use the one for the PSU, but I had to pass the cables in it before installing PSU in the case). Although my board is a bit smaller so I guess it would've been a bit hard for you

When I was typing my post, I realized how silly it was for me to put the AP as an exahust ... I'll put it as the bottom intake when I get my GPU this week ... or maybe regarding mfenn's post it would be better as the push fan on my 212+ ?

 

[lehtv]

It's best application is as a push fan on a dense heatsink.

Actually not. I've tried the AP121 on my Scythe Mugen 2 heatsink, it performed several degrees worse than the stock Scythe Slipstream fan at the same RPM. Due to the spiral grille in front of the fan, the airflow doesn't get good contact with a heatsink. At least that's my hypothesis; another possible explanation is that it's just not as good in terms of CFM/RPM or CFM/dBA.

The best application of the Air Penetrator is as an intake fan to blow cool air directly on components. That's what the spiral grille is for - it directs airflow. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8fC809TK0&#t=1m43s

 

[mfenn]

Actually not. I've tried the AP121 on my Scythe Mugen 2 heatsink, it performed several degrees worse than the stock Scythe Slipstream fan at the same RPM. Due to the spiral grille in front of the fan, the airflow doesn't get good contact with a heatsink. At least that's my hypothesis; another possible explanation is that it's just not as good in terms of CFM/RPM or CFM/dBA.

The best application of the Air Penetrator is as an intake fan to blow cool air directly on components. That's what the spiral grille is for - it directs airflow. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8fC809TK0&#t=1m43s

I'm not doubting the results in your case, I'm just going based off what I know about blade design (admittedly not a whole lot). Here's what Silverstone themselves say, "This unmatched efficiency makes Air Penetrator ideal not only as intake case fan, but also perfect for high density heatsinks and radiators."

 

[lehtv]

That marketing speech is what prompted me to try it on my Mugen 2... I get the feeling that it might just be 'perfect for high density heatsinks' if the grille wasn't there and the fan blades were a bit closer to the heatsink

 

[davidthemaster3]

Here's an update on my overclock, so far I'm at 4.4GHz CPU and 9-10-10-28-1N @1.45V ... here's my CPUz validation
I passed 4+ hours of HCI Memtest (200% + coverage) with no errors

 

[lehtv]

CPU voltage and temps during linx or prime95 stress test?

 

[davidthemaster3]

I didn't take a print screen on the LinX test ... but as best as I remember the temps hit a max of 95 on one core only (arrcording to real temp) on the rest were between 90-93 MAX ... HWMonitor had lower temps but I can't remember ...
I don't know the temps I get for prime95 ... should I run it like in the CPU/Overclocking sticky guide and update?
My CPU Voltage in a +0.005V Offset and at load CPUz reports it at ~1.256V ... oh and Turbo voltage offset is at +0.004 I think ...

 

[lehtv]

Those are some pretty high temps... Are you not using aftermarket cooling? You shouldn't overclock with the stock cooler. I'd recommend staying below 80C during stress testing...