I've just unlocked my XP1800+ processor WITH A PENCIL!!!

[johncar]

Originally posted by: Confused
Well, i didn't unlock the L1 bridges, cos my motherboard has no multiplier adjustments.

But, i did connect the L3/4 bridges with a pencil, yes

If you're gonna try the L1, don't forget to put the glue/nail polish in the laser pits, on others it doesn't matter, only L1 does it matter
Confused

Congratulations on a very successful manual manipulation of Multiplier bridges...but take issue with your saying no need to fill/insulate the L3/L4/L10s since the sub-surface ground plane exposed in the open L1s must surely exist in the open L3/L4/L10s. You probably got away with it 'cause the graphite is not as likely to make contact with the sub-surface ground plane as a liquid conductive solution with its capillary action on surfaces. Also, you may have been closing some bridges which connect to pulldown signal resistors (which connect to gound), so accidental grounding of "those" bridges in the pits would not change the result, ie, a LO set by a closed bridge to ground is the same as a LO accidently set by connecting to ground in that bridge's pit. But suppose the bridge/s in question were being set HI...then any accidental LO set in the pit negates the HI you're trying to set by closing the HI bridge. Hope you understand what we're trying to point out.

Anyway congrats again...but good idea to fill the pits before closing.
John C.

 

[johncar]

Originally posted by: Confused
Well, i didn't unlock the L1 bridges, cos my motherboard has no multiplier adjustments.

But, i did connect the L3/4 bridges with a pencil, yes

If you're gonna try the L1, don't forget to put the glue/nail polish in the laser pits, on others it doesn't matter, only L1 does it matter
Confused

Congratulations on a very successful manual manipulation of Multiplier bridges...but take issue with your saying no need to fill/insulate the L3/L4/L10s since the sub-surface ground plane exposed in the open L1s must surely exist in the open L3/L4/L10s. You probably got away with it 'cause the graphite is not as likely to make contact with the sub-surface ground plane as a liquid conductive solution with its capillary action on surfaces. Also, you may have been closing some bridges which connect to pulldown signal resistors (which connect to gound), so accidental grounding of "those" bridges in the pits would not change the result, ie, a LO set by a closed bridge to ground is the same as a LO accidently set by connecting to ground in that bridge's pit. But suppose the bridge/s in question were being set HI...then any accidental LO set in the pit negates the HI you're trying to set by closing the HI bridge. Hope you understand what we're trying to point out.

Anyway congrats again...but good idea to fill the pits before closing.
John C.

 

[tjmaxz]

I tried the pencil trick on my xp1600+ (AROIA week 12) on K7S5A last nite, but it didn't work. Found out that it's because there were gaps in between, so I went to thoma's hardware guide to download the video. Went to Fry's to get the tools (super glue, conductive liquid silver, artic silver 3) and worked on it this afternoon. I tried to short the bridges on L3/L4/L10 to make the multiplier to 12.5 but it didn't work Can anyone give me a suggestion to make it work? I guess it pays that I am too lazy to get a multimeter to measure the voltages and resistance I was thinking it might be because I didn't do the fillings good enough, so I am thinking about soldering as a subsitute of the liquid silver (with the tape mask on). Would it work? oh and also the contacts seems to be wearing off as I clean the liquid silver with cleaning alcohol over and over again (so that I could redo all of the shortings) is it gonna be a problem? Thanks

 

[zsouthboy]

HOLY CRAP! SWEET!

worked first time for me.......... my mobo didn't like me uppind the fsb too far.......... holy crap this is sweet.

took like 15 mins to do, i went from 10.5x to 12.5 x as that one was the easiest to do....... on my AGOIA Y 1600+ week 13 btw....... sweet!

i used an exacto knife to cut those two bridges, and a mech. pencil to close the other two.

sweet.

 

[Tab]

Whats the best results you have gotten with a 1600+ 1.4/266? How much extra cooling has everyone been using? Any voltage adjustments?

 

[zsouthboy]

Originally posted by: Tabb
Whats the best results you have gotten with a 1600+ 1.4/266? How much extra cooling has everyone been using? Any voltage adjustments?

I'm using an alpha PAL 8045 w/ AC3, a generic fan. I have run stably at 1.75 for some time, defualt voltage, i know i can get this thing higher.. hehe i will try tommarow.

 

[Wiz]

I have an 1800+ here, what do I need to do if I just want to up the multiplier?

 

[zsouthboy]

Bump for all the guys that haven't heard about this nor tried it... its easy!

 

[clicknext]

I'm a bit confused about where you need to cut. So you go to the painting guide and it shows you the bridges with a bar connecting them, and the ones with a bar seperating them. So you choose which multi you want, then use the pencil to connect the ones that are seperated and need to be connected, and seperate the ones that have nothing on them (visible on the cpu), but need to be seperated? How dangerous is it, cutting with a knife? What kind of damage could be done if I cut too far?

 

[pISSANt]

I just recieved an AROIA "9" week 25 today and am planning to adjust the multipliers as well. I was wondering how you connected the bridges together? Here is a link to a pic of my new processor.
pic of the bridges
Did you guys use method "A" or "B" to connect the bridges? Also do you have any other usefull info about cutting the bridges?

 

[Jeff7181]

How do you know how deep to cut the bridges? Can you check the continuity with a digital multi-meter?

 

[pISSANt]

Well I popped my 1600+ in to see if it would work, it did, so I pulled it out and changed the multiplier to 12 using a mechanical pencil, magnifying glass, and an exacto knife. I am typing this @1900+ or 1596Mhz. If it passes this stress test I will move on to a higher multiplier. Oh, in case anyone is interested, I am at a full load temp of ~38C using watercooling and an external temp prope touching the core of the processor.

 

[HappyNic]

erhh ,, so did you used method "A" or "B" to connect the bridges as posted in your previous post?

 

[pISSANt]

I used method A & B

Update:
I tried it at 13x133 and it was a no go at stock voltage. I may try again some other time but for now I have a $50 XP1900+

 

[pepsimanz]

I tried this method since I am using a tyan 2460 mpx with no multiplier adjustment either.

I first modded my 1600xp into an MP (recognized by bios) and used the trick on the L4 bridges to hard mod a 1600 into a 2000+.

since I want to make sure stability, I also modded to L11 to give 1.85 default voltage, poped it in the MB (without a case) and got a SVC GC68 on it with a generic 28CFM fan. IT WORKED!!

after installing Winxp, it ran prime 95 stable for 4-5 hours and the temp reading is about 39C at load. Great!

But now come the horrible part, I just got a new generic server case today to put this monster in, after I install everything into the box and turned on the system again..... no video... started to smell something burning, oh nooo, my cpu burnt!! the fans were certaining spinning and I have no idea what caused it to burn? Is it because the HSF might have shifted or knocked around as I install it in the box and didn't get a good contact to cool the CPU? Or is it because of my mod? If it is because of my mod, is it because the XP>MP mod? or is it because of the 10.5x>12.5 mod? or is it because of the 1.75v>1.85v mod.

I ran this cpu before at xp 2000+ speed, and at 1.85v before. Could it be the method I used shorted some circuit and causing the cpu to burn? or is it because of the xp>mp mod? any comments?

Just want to warn ppl of possible danger in modding and OCing (or maybe just not cooling your cpu sufficiently) and deciding if I should get another one to try again or just go straigt for a mp2000 for more $?

 

[SithSolo1]

Is it possible for the pencil trick to wear off? I tried it on my 1ghz T-bird and it shot up to 1.33ghz for about a week but them it went back down to 1ghz.

 

[clicknext]

After changing the multi by cutting some bridges, is it possible to change it back easily?

 

[hollowman]

Could someone answer my quesions?

1. Do you have to fill in the gap when you connect the bridges?

2. Do you have to connect with pencil for L4 and L10? (I have xp1800+ and to make it xp2000+, looks like I only need to cut one bridge and connect one bridge on L3)

Thanks, and does anyone have a picture of their modded CPU?

 

[pillage2001]

hollowman.......YGPM

 

[clicknext]

1. No, you do not need the fill the gap. I'm sure it would help to do that, though.

2. If the painting guide says that you don't need to make changes to bridges, then you don't.

 

[Jeff7181]

Any way you could post some pictures of your modified CPU? I'd like to actually see how deep the cuts are and what your pencil marks look like.

 

[hollowman]

yea, i too would like to see a picture of modded CPU.

i am going to try to change my multiplier tomorrow after my final exam.

 

[MrCraphead]

damn, I feel like giving this a shot.

 

[EdipisReks]

Originally posted by: pepsimanz Is it because the HSF might have shifted or knocked around as I install it in the box and didn't get a good contact to cool the CPU? Or is it because of my mod? If it is because of my mod, is it because the XP>MP mod? or is it because of the 10.5x>12.5 mod? or is it because of the 1.75v>1.85v mod.

I ran this cpu before at xp 2000+ speed, and at 1.85v before. Could it be the method I used shorted some circuit and causing the cpu to burn? or is it because of the xp>mp mod? any comments?

i doubt that any of the mods caused the problem. my guess woule be that the heatsink shifted enough that the hsf was no longer in direct contact with the CPU.

 

[Confused]

Unfortunately I do not have a digital camera for my use at the moment, and I was unable to take any close-up shots of my CPU with the camera I did have access to, as it didn't have a Macro mode.


Confused