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Issues with not turning new rotors.

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I replaced the rear rotors and pads tonight, the brakes are like butter now. Now I just gotta get rid of the mice in my garage that are hiding dog food in various spots on my car.
 
What Garage has a Brake Drum or Rotor Lathe today!!!!!!

I put 500 thousand miles on a 1968 Volvo B20 123S and kept the original Girling rotors and calipers with minimal upkeep cleaning other then changing pads.

Dunlops on a Jag and a Mercedes are also very easy to work on for a backyard mechanic but don't expect a modern garage to service them without buying the whole unit.

There are no Mechanics today - Period. To day brakes just simply over heat, warp and probably take the wheel bearing out with it. Now and you gotta replace the unit plus any any universal attached to it.

Wish Brakes to day where as good back then.
 
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I drive pretty aggressively
Don't, during the first 1000 miles of a new or rebuilt engine or the first 3000 miles of new pads or shoes. New brake surfaces don't mate perfectly and may concentrate the wear on less than half the surface area, making those areas run hotter than after break-in.
 
Don't, during the first 1000 miles of a new or rebuilt engine or the first 3000 miles of new pads or shoes. New brake surfaces don't mate perfectly and may concentrate the wear on less than half the surface area, making those areas run hotter than after break-in.

Not necessarily. Brake pad break-in will vary based on the type of pad (i.e. budget pads are going to be different than race pads).

I broke my engine in hard after I built it, and I'm not alone in that practice. ATS Racing (high performance MR2 shop) breaks engines in on the dyno. The goal of an engine break-in is to properly seal the rings to the cylinder walls, and you aren't going to achieve that by driving like a grandma.
 
What Garage has a Brake Drum or Rotor Lathe today!!!!!!

I put 500 thousand miles on a 1968 Volvo B20 123S and kept the original Girling rotors and calipers with minimal upkeep cleaning other then changing pads.

Dunlops on a Jag and a Mercedes are also very easy to work on for a backyard mechanic but don't expect a modern garage to service them without buying the whole unit.

There are no Mechanics today - Period. To day brakes just simply over heat, warp and probably take the wheel bearing out with it. Now and you gotta replace the unit plus any any universal attached to it.

Wish Brakes to day where as good back then.

I suppose these days they never turn rotors or drums but rather replace them when worn out.
 
I now have 97K on my original rotors and I follow a few rules to keep them in good shape, 1st is if a 'panic stop" is needed requiring heavy braking from high speeds I will (conditions permitting) slip the car into neutral or park (if fully stopped). When your pads are really hot from a panic stop you DON'T want to keep pedal pressure on or you will wind up transferring pad material onto the spot. 2nd, When I replace pads I simply use a scuff-pad to wipe the rotors before installation, no turning. 3rd, I replace brake fluid every 3 years, FL is a hot and humid place and the fluid WILL need replacing, ignore it at your own risk unless paying for new calipers is something you enjoy.
 
Very unlikely to ever warp a rotor. Most of the time the pads just need to be re-bedded. I've cracked countless rotors from overheating on track but never "warped" one that couldn't be fixed by re-bedding the pads.
 
I have a Mazda cx-5 with about 25000 miles, I drive pretty aggressively ...

CX-5 do use rear brakes a lot as opposed to many "normal" cars.

I've read on CX-5 forums that rears might go bad before fronts in many instances especially when "aggressive" driving is involved.

I'd check rears too ASAP.
 
The best "parts store" rotors I've used are Car Quest Gold one, almost always they say "Made In Canada" on them and I've installed over 50 sets of these on friends and family members cars and not a single complaint. I also put 30-40 miles on after I install a set to make sure they are properly broke in before I let them have the vehicle back. Sometime I hate being an ex-mechanic.
 
I broke my engine in hard after I built it, and I'm not alone in that practice. ATS Racing (high performance MR2 shop) breaks engines in on the dyno. The goal of an engine break-in is to properly seal the rings to the cylinder walls, and you aren't going to achieve that by driving like a grandma.
Car makers say drive like an angry grandma but not like her troubled teen son for the first 1K, only without cruise control. Those companies do warrant their engines, probably for at least as long as ATS Racing does theirs, but ATS Racing does seems to have a better record with the Better Business Bureau, with an A+ rating and 0 complaints.
 
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