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Is soldering copper pipe difficult?

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Shark bite is great for small jobs but if you're doing any new plumbing I find it's worth it to buy the pex crimper and go the crimp route, or use copper if it's a small fix on existing copper. For anything new I usually just go pex.
 
kazaam said:
So I have a bypass valve with threadless gate valves. I need to convert it to a bypass valve with threaded ball valves. Best method to do this would be what, in your opinion? If I can use pex, I really wouldn't mind.
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Best method and cheapest would stay with copper, because you need to rent Pex crimper if you go that route.
 
Youtube probably has better advice and visual advice at that. I suggest you try that.

Please do it in a safe manner... ie; don't set your house on fire. I use a MAPP gas torch - hotter than propane and better for larger fittings - provided you are careful to not also cook off/melt the copper as well.

Please watch youtube.
 
Red Squirrel said:
Shark bite is great for small jobs but if you're doing any new plumbing I find it's worth it to buy the pex crimper and go the crimp route, or use copper if it's a small fix on existing copper. For anything new I usually just go pex.
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This... I have a house with polybutylene pipe. Not bad as the fittings/unions were all swapped out for copper years ago. *The failing was the pipes but the plastic fittings which would weaken in a system with Chloramine in the water system.

But I do replace anything with pex hose and such as I remodel the house. Will never get to all of it, but perhaps 75% of it over time. Haven't had a leak yet.

In my experience, you still need soldering skills for plumbing for doing things like installing a new hot water heater.
 
kazaam said:
So, since a crimper is cheap to rent, should I just replace the valve using pex and crimped on ends? Just curious. I really wouldn't mind learning how to solder, but it's just an extra thing to have to do right now when I'm kind of busy.
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You'll probably spend as much on a torch and related supplies vs crimper rental, crimp rings, and the pex fittings... More likely to use pex stuff on the future anyway.

Again... Review the youtube vids and decide which is best for you given your comfort level. The space you have to work in may help dictate that as well.
 
Make sure to not use water based Flux. Damm I thought I had forgot how to sweat a pipe. Once I got some tinning flux; worked perfect.


Also you can get a Pex crimp tool (stainless steel rings) for around $20 at eBay. The pex and fitting you can buy at Lowes and some home depots.
 
WackyDan said:
You'll probably spend as much on a torch and related supplies vs crimper rental, crimp rings, and the pex fittings... More likely to use pex stuff on the future anyway.

Again... Review the youtube vids and decide which is best for you given your comfort level. The space you have to work in may help dictate that as well.
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In this case the op have to spend money on torch, gas, solder, pex x copper adaptors fittings, crimper and rings, as well as pay for expensive pex ball valve or buy 2 extra pex x npt fittings that cost more than npt x sweat fittings.

Imho it make more sense to stay with copper for such a small job to save time and money.
 
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kazaam said:
Oh yeah, nevermind, if I have to swear the pex onto the copper ill just stick with copper. Guess it's time to learn! Hopefully flux, solder, and a torch don't cost too much.
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Borrow the stuff if you know someone who is handy.

Still, the blowtorch is handy in the kitchen.
 
Howard said:
Borrow the stuff if you know someone who is handy.

Still, the blowtorch is handy in the kitchen.
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Brilliant, I have never even considered using it for cooking. :biggrin:


kazaam said:
Shucks. Any other inexpensive one you could recommend please?
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These plain basic ones are usually fairly cheap:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...P/Mastercraft+Propane+Torch+Kit.jsp?locale=en

Remember to get one of those flit and steel things though, or you can use another source of fire to start it, but it's easier with the flint.
 
You need to make sure it's 100% dry. That is actually the hardest part as it always seems like there's more and more water that comes out. Worse is near shower pipes. I don't know what it is with showers, but they always seem to have an unlimited amount of water left in the line. You may need to open a faucet at the highest spot in your house and one at the lowest to drain all the pipes. If your water heater has a shut off, does not hurt to close it off either. Before you start, close all the faucets that you opened. The pipe in your picture may be a little tricky because there will probably be water that wants to come down. Though before you cut you can always open those two valves and let it drain as much as possible.

Shove paper towels up the pipe until they come out completely dry. If it never happens you may need to go the bread route.

I try to solder all around but you don't really have to as it gets sucked in. I like to try to get visible solder all around as it gives it that professional look. Wipe off the flux after it cooled down. Do not turn on water till it's cool enough to touch, you don't want to "shock" it.

If you are adding anything new, it does not hurt to put a valve first. If I was to redo all my home's plumbing I would actually have everything going to a manifold with valves. It's nice to be able to individually shut off water to specific areas.
 
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