Is my build compatible? (Silent/i5/ssd/hdd/catleap27)

[SCOOKIE]

Hi,

PC usage: Browsing, reading, office work.
No gaming, No movies, No photos.

AIM: Want something really fast and easy on eyes.
Plus it must be silent.

Room condition: Window on the back right side of monitor, so my current monitor gets reflection.

My build:

Monitor: Korean 27 IPS WQHD, something like Catleap Q270

CPU: Intel Ivy i5 3450
Link http://www.flipkart.com/intel-3-1-g...FJRD&ref=c3c7efe7-ea65-4537-88e0-9d708bd0a7ea

Video card: I need one because korean monitor requires DVI D port, it wont work with hdmi or converter or adapter, so I decided to go with Radeon HD 6450
Link http://www.flipkart.com/asus-amd-at...a2-f5ccbfecb322&srno=s_4&otracker=from-search

Motherboard: I read on net that I need 75 or 77 chipset otherwise I will need to update the bios. So therefore:
Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H
Link: http://www.flipkart.com/gigabyte-ga...FPFM&ref=e38bb1af-b6ff-44f4-8317-f8f63e368647

RAM: Read on net if all channels of ram on motherboard are filled then its good. So I took 2GB x 4 ram of G.Skill RipjawsX 1600

Link http://www.flipkart.com/g-skill-rip...A3TA&ref=d711734e-9c53-49d1-91ad-cf0a223eefd0

Hard disk: WD Caviar Green 2 TB 6gbps
Link http://www.flipkart.com/wd-caviar-g...PGTK&ref=cabcea99-de77-42d0-a8ca-751923f1cdaf

SSD- I have my existing Kingston Snow 30GB

Power supply: I need something silent.

TDP calculation:

4 fans = 20w total (because most of cabinets has 3 and one for cpu instock fan)
cd drive 30w
ssd 2w
hard disk 10w
graphic card 27w
cpu 77w
motherboard 75w (rough estimation, not sure)
total = 241w

So what about this PSU:

Corsair CMPSU-430CXV2UK 430 Watts PSU
Link http://www.flipkart.com/corsair-cmp...s-psu/p/itmd5xz5qs9mhqmq?pid=PSUD5XZ4ZJ5YPGBU

Cabinet:
I really cant decide this, I know I need one with usb 3.0 hub
Do I really need one with 3 fans?
I need something which looks really good.
Can anyone suggest me one from http://www.flipkart.com/computers/components/cabinet-20282?ref=54436c58-3fb6-4abe-a0f3-abaa1d46def2


Doubts:
1. On Newegg one reviewer posted that my current motherboard requires at least 450W or it wont work. So since my current PSU is 430W, then my build wont boot up?
2. Current motherboard only have one SATA 6gbps port, So I tthinking about getting Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H Motherboard (link http://www.flipkart.com/gigabyte-ga...KCZ6&ref=4e0e7bea-9c47-4231-9767-da25ff09ca23) since it has two 6gbps sata port, one for ssd and one for hd.
3. I want to keep my build silent and quite, so which PSU should I look for?
4. Is my build compatible and silent?
5. Do I need to buy any kind of wires/cables?
6. PSU mentions that it has some connectors like molex or so, are they enough to connect all of my components?

Thanks

 

[Cerb]

Motherboard: I read on net that I need 75 or 77 chipset otherwise I will need to update the bios. So therefore:
Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H

I have no idea what that's supposed to mean, but it aught to be an OK board.

RAM: Read on net if all channels of ram on motherboard are filled then its good. So I took 2GB x 4 ram of G.Skill RipjawsX 1600

Two sticks is good enough, and leaves room for more. The spikey heatspreader bits do no good, either.

I'd get something like this (2x):
http://www.flipkart.com/transcend-d...FUSM&ref=1706bc43-bb58-4de2-bf3a-68a9f4c0c83b

Yeah, it's not 1600, but the 1600MHz ones at that site are kind of expensive, relative to 1333.

Power supply: I need something silent.

Not worth it. Really. This will be the closest thing without going crazy
http://www.flipkart.com/corsair-ddr...PHZU&ref=1706bc43-bb58-4de2-bf3a-68a9f4c0c83b

The Corsair you chose is fine, too; the above is going an extra mile.

As far as power consumption goes, don't even worry about it. A 400+W unit is just so that it never has to kick the fan into high gear. With such a weak video card and no games, I'll be surprised if you were to reach 150W from the wall.

Do I really need one with 3 fans?

No. You might get one with that many, but no. For a good quiet computer, you may very well want to block off unneeded fan holes.

I need something which looks really good.

Can you maybe give examples? Of what they have, I'd have to go with the Antex P280 or BitFenix Colossus, but the selection of cases is not exactly wide. Any other stores to look at? There should be some other good quiet cases, that don't cost too much, but they aren't listing too many. The Coolermaster Silencio 450 I'm not too sure about.

Likewise, the selection of heatsinks and fans leaves a lot to be a desired.

Doubts:
1. On Newegg one reviewer posted that my current motherboard requires at least 450W or it wont work. So since my current PSU is 430W, then my build wont boot up?

Um, no. New machines do tend to need more startup current, so an older PSU might not always work, but there will be no need for a 450W PSU. There's nothing terribly wrong with a 450W PSU, but no need for one.

2. Current motherboard only have one SATA 6gbps port, So I tthinking about getting Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H Motherboard (link http://www.flipkart.com/gigabyte-ga-...7-da25ff09ca23) since it has two 6gbps sata port, one for ssd and one for hd.

No need. Only a fast SSD can even take advantage of the port, and you only want to bother doing that if the port is an Intel.

3. I want to keep my build silent and quite, so which PSU should I look for?

Depends on your cuttoff for noise; but it's really hard to go wrong with a Seasonic S12 series, if it can fit in the budget.

4. Is my build compatible and silent?

The thing to do for noise is get a good CPU heatsink and/or fan, a good case, and good case fans. Being across the globe from you, I don't know what other good options you have, but some other stores with better case and fan selections might help, there. With just the CPU to really worry about, it shouldn't be hard. But, you definitely sound n00bish, so I don't want to go thrusting one of the Corsair or Antec cases on you, that will take real legwork to get working well.

A Fractal Design R4 or Define Mini, FI, would be easy as pie: just install the components, and learn to do some cable management. Toss in a Scythe Ninja or Thermalright HR-02 and you can skip having a CPU fan, once the cables are out of the way.

There are some decent cases there, but there are several series of cases that make it easy, and that have USB 3.0...I just don't see them there.

Ultimately, I think if you can easily find a Fractal Design Define Mini, and like its looks and functionality, and a Scythe Ninja, you'll be set. It's got damping, comes with moderately quiet fans (if not quiet enough, they can be changed), can fit several drives, has holes in the mobo plate for cabling, has an intake filter, a door (IE, baffle), and USB 3.0 on the front. With so little to cool, I would even not bother with my normal cautionary warnings about running a fanless CPU HSF 🙂.

6. PSU mentions that it has some connectors like molex or so, are they enough to connect all of my components?

Yes. The hard work with any PSU you'll be recommended will be how to stuff the extra cables and connectors out of the way, because you won't use 80% of them 🙂.

 

[SCOOKIE]

......

Hi,

Thanks for the valuable insights, I really appreciate them.

RAM:
Regarding the RAM, GSkill had 9 CAS Latency and Corsair has 11 CAS latency. So is Corsair better than it? I am not sure but on Wikipedia it says that CAS latency is the time, so I thought lower CAS = Better.

PSU:
I was able to find the below Seasonic S12 PSU, so I hope this one is silent. Link is http://www.flipkart.com/seasonic-s1...7ab0-6543-462a-aa01-1105aa66d38d#read-reviews

Also do you know if I say put the above 520W PSU and consume only say 150W then electricity bill wont be affected, will it? I know it sounds kina weird and funny, but still I would like to clear the doubt.

Cabinet: Indeed, the selection s very limited. Do you know any site which can do worldwide shipping? Though not sure if it will be worth or not because they might charge at least $100 for shipping itself. Antex P280 or BitFenix Colossus are both out of stock. I am looking for some cabinet which have piano finishing, shiny, something like HP cabinets.
Fractual cabinets looks quite good, I would have to see if I can find it online somewhere.

I am thinking about going with "Corsair Special Edition White 600T Mid Tower Cabinet", I am just worried that its just too much for me and will take unneccassary more space. Link http://www.flipkart.com/corsair-spe...BGJ2&ref=a0b09c32-7abd-4fb5-bd50-03b47fab005d

CPU: You mentioned about that we need to keep in mind which CPU we use, so do you think I made a right choice for CPU for my work?

Thank you very much

 

[Blain]

PC usage: Browsing, reading, office work.
No gaming, No movies, No photos.

AIM: Want something really fast and easy on eyes.
Plus it must be silent.

My build:

CPU: Intel Ivy i5 3450
Link http://www.flipkart.com/intel-3-1-g...FJRD&ref=c3c7efe7-ea65-4537-88e0-9d708bd0a7ea

Hard disk: WD Caviar Green 2 TB 6gbps
Link http://www.flipkart.com/wd-caviar-g...PGTK&ref=cabcea99-de77-42d0-a8ca-751923f1cdaf

Power supply: I need something silent.

PSU:
I was able to find the below Seasonic S12 PSU, so I hope this one is silent. Link is http://www.flipkart.com/seasonic-s1...7ab0-6543-462a-aa01-1105aa66d38d#read-reviews

4. Is my build compatible and silent?

At this point, your goal of a silent PC has failed.

 

[Blain]

RAM:
Regarding the RAM, GSkill had 9 CAS Latency and Corsair has 11 CAS latency. So is Corsair better than it? I am not sure but on Wikipedia it says that CAS latency is the time, so I thought lower CAS = Better.

If I were shopping for high quality memory, I would use the following parameters as a guide...

* DDR3 rated at 1.5v or lower
* DDR3 rated at the lowest CAS I could afford
* DDR3 rated at the highest clock speed I could afford
* Limit the scope of my purchease to G.Skill, Mushkin, Corsair XMS or Crucial (non-Ballistix)

While not wavering on the voltage point, I would balance the other issues with my budget.

Remember kids my goal is not pure "benchmarking" performance, but simply finding the highest quality memory I can afford. ^_^

The only reason I pay a premium for low latency, high speed, low voltage memory is...
Quality and quality alone.

1.5v is the JEDEC DDR3 voltage standard.
Stay with 1.5v or less if you can afford it..

What he said.

 

[Cerb]

Hi,

Thanks for the valuable insights, I really appreciate them.

RAM:
Regarding the RAM, GSkill had 9 CAS Latency and Corsair has 11 CAS latency. So is Corsair better than it? I am not sure but on Wikipedia it says that CAS latency is the time, so I thought lower CAS = Better.

Yes, but 30% or more better? Not even close. CAS 9-10 1333MHz will be within 5% of the performance most of the time, and much cheaper. Here, its common for the price difference to range from nothing to <10%, so we go ahead and get 1600MHz with decent timings. I'm seeing 30-100% price jumps, so just save the money and get a good brand (Corsair, Transcend, Samsung, A-Data, G.Skill, Crucial, etc.) of 1333 at <=1.5V and CAS 8-10.

PSU:
I was able to find the below Seasonic S12 PSU, so I hope this one is silent. Link is http://www.flipkart.com/seasonic-s1...7ab0-6543-462a-aa01-1105aa66d38d#read-reviews

Also do you know if I say put the above 520W PSU and consume only say 150W then electricity bill wont be affected, will it? I know it sounds kina weird and funny, but still I would like to clear the doubt.

Practically any good PSU today is going to be >=80% efficient around 20-80% of its rated load. Here's about what that one should actually pull under load:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story2&reid=185
The AC Watts is what comes out of your utility bill. All else being equal, a more efficient PSU will run cooler, run quieter, and use less electricity. With a i5-3xxx and Radeon 6450, you won't be using all that much power, even loading it down.

Most PSUs are most inefficient at very low loads, but at that point, you're also dealing with very little actual power draw, so it's not a big deal (IE, 80% v. 60% a 20W is only about 0.01kWh/day more, so worry about it at full load, instead).

I am thinking about going with "Corsair Special Edition White 600T Mid Tower Cabinet", I am just worried that its just too much for me and will take unneccassary more space. Link http://www.flipkart.com/corsair-spe...BGJ2&ref=a0b09c32-7abd-4fb5-bd50-03b47fab005d

It doesn't look too bad. The main thing is that like with the Cooler Masters and 'gaming' Antec cases, any noise from any drive or fan will be quite audible, due to the front being open, without even so much as a filter to help block high frequency noises (like HDD hum, or coil whine).

Good cases for quieting PCs don't often have doors on them, and side intake venting, for nothing--those are highly effective features to reduce the amount of noise that gets out of the case and to your ears. Some, like Silverstone's, can be quiet effective even with minimal or no damping, but rely more on you also picking very quiet components to go inside.

In my view, the HDD is the only real problem part, but a WD Green for a data drive is one of the better choices, and if you've got to have a HDD for a data drive, then that's that.

Here are some good cases to look for. I think the Fractal Design Define Mini (basically a R4) would be the best, but don't break the bank over it. USB 3 front ports limits what I could select, a bit, too.

• Fractal Design Define Mini: damping, good standard ATX air flow, comes with alright quiet fans (there are quieter, but without without more info on your relative experience and wants, try what it comes with), and the top panel ports are nice for a case that rests on the floor.
• Silverstone Temjin TJ08: direct front to back air flow, relying on the fan filter and huge slow fan for quiet operation. Definitely not something to use a stock CPU cooler with, but running the 180mm fan very slowly can help make up for some of what it otherwise lacks. It's a nice case, but a very different beast from other options.
• Antec Sonata Series Solo II: damping, so-so HDD isolation, and you would almost certainly want to replace the fan. Also, it will be bigger.
• NZXT H2 H2-001: functionally, pretty much the same as the Sonata Solo, but with only 1 USB 3.0 panel port, though they're top-mounted like the Fractal Design.

CPU: You mentioned about that we need to keep in mind which CPU we use, so do you think I made a right choice for CPU for my work?

CPU cooler. Intel's stock coolers are not quiet. They've put much effort into keeping them cheap to make, instead (seriously, they've made news about their R&D into extruding and machining aluminum, in the past). The cooler for what you want to do is this monster. Depending on case, you wouldn't even need the fan on the cooler. You might not be able to find that one, but it would be good if you had other sources to buy from, like with the cases, to choose something else sufficiently good.

That said, what do you do that is taxing on the CPU? The Core i3 is almost as fast with fewer threads, and a T version would make quietly cooling it without a big cooler like the Ninja easy. Neither your first thread, nor this one, have indicated any real need for an i5, now that I look over them both, again.

At this point, your goal of a silent PC has failed.

As in 0dB, yes (and thus my PSU comment). I'm going off the assumption that SCOOKIE is going for, "really quiet," instead; and not realizing that passive PSUs, mobos that can run passively, low power CPUs with big HSFs, etc., exist, and can cost a mint.

 

[Blain]

As in 0dB, yes (and thus my PSU comment). I'm going off the assumption that SCOOKIE is going for, "really quiet," instead; and not realizing that passive PSUs, mobos that can run passively, low power CPUs with big HSFs, etc., exist, and can cost a mint.

To be fair, he/she did mention the word "silent" four times in the original post, then again in post #3.
I'm assuming the quiet vs silent question will be cleared up when SCOOKIE posts again.

 

[SCOOKIE]

What he said.

Thanks, it cleared my doubts regarding the ram.

....

Thanks.

I just decided to go with i5 because I thought i5 would be overall faster than i3.. by overall I meant, it can handle few browsers with 4 to 5 tabs on each along with pidgin/digsby opened without making the system to run slow. I am on Core2Duo right now and this cant take any load at all. Even a browser with 10 tabs will make it sweat. On laptop I have 1st gen i3 and its okay.

To be fair, he/she did mention the word "silent" four times in the original post, then again in post #3.
I'm assuming the quiet vs silent question will be cleared up when SCOOKIE posts again.

By silent, I meant I dont want to hear any noise when nothing else is running in the room, like in winters, my older hard disk noice was very clear so I replaced it with SSD which helped a lot but still I can hear noise from cpu fan... though I hardly have pin drop silence in my room lol. My laptop starts running its fan at such weird speed which makes high pitch sound and its doing so from day 1.. not sure if its due to the fan or just a bad design flaw. I am using VAIO 2010 model with 1st gen i3.

So I want to avoid any high pitch sound and I dont want to hear any fan sound/ or any other sound when everything else is silent in my room.

Thank you guys, I really appreciate your valuable time.

 

[Cerb]

I just decided to go with i5 because I thought i5 would be overall faster than i3.. by overall I meant, it can handle few browsers with 4 to 5 tabs on each along with pidgin/digsby opened without making the system to run slow. I am on Core2Duo right now and this cant take any load at all. Even a browser with 10 tabs will make it sweat. On laptop I have 1st gen i3 and its okay.

I'm used to having 100+ tabs, with a lowly old Core 2 Duo. What exactly is causing it to feel slow? Are the web sites all full of bloated javascript, do you use Norton or McAfee, or what? On the off chance you don't use adblock, you need to go ahead and start. I can hardly stand the sluggishness of using a default browser, even on hardware that puts mine to shame (which is common and cheap, these days).

 

[SCOOKIE]

I'm used to having 100+ tabs, with a lowly old Core 2 Duo. What exactly is causing it to feel slow? Are the web sites all full of bloated javascript, do you use Norton or McAfee, or what? On the off chance you don't use adblock, you need to go ahead and start. I can hardly stand the sluggishness of using a default browser, even on hardware that puts mine to shame (which is common and cheap, these days).

On a brand new install on SSD without anti virus, on chrome/ff with adblock, I cant take more than 20 tabs without slowing it down. By slowness I meant, when I minimize the browser it takes few seconds and mouse just freezes. Websites like forum plus one tab for gmail.

I forgot to mention, I need to make sure that I dont get any stutter in my new build, because kindston and even OCZ agility 3 on my current old system which has sata 1 port, causes stutter every 30 min and mouse just freezes for 3 to 5 second.

 

[Cerb]

On a brand new install on SSD without anti virus, on chrome/ff with adblock, I cant take more than 20 tabs without slowing it down. By slowness I meant, when I minimize the browser it takes few seconds and mouse just freezes. Websites like forum plus one tab for gmail.

I forgot to mention, I need to make sure that I dont get any stutter in my new build, because kindston and even OCZ agility 3 on my current old system which has sata 1 port, causes stutter every 30 min and mouse just freezes for 3 to 5 second.

Have you tried it with any other storage devices, such as a normal HDD? That could just be symptoms of an old SF SSD w/ not TRIM. It is definitely not normal behavior, unless you are also starved for RAM (say, <2GB for Windows 7).

Definitely consider getting a new SSD, such as a Samsung, Crucial, or Plextor.

 

[SCOOKIE]

Have you tried it with any other storage devices, such as a normal HDD? That could just be symptoms of an old SF SSD w/ not TRIM. It is definitely not normal behavior, unless you are also starved for RAM (say, <2GB for Windows 7).

Definitely consider getting a new SSD, such as a Samsung, Crucial, or Plextor.

On HDD I get the same problem, I have 1Gb ram.

 

[Zap]

That's your problem, 1GB RAM and a 30GB Kingston SSDNow. Check out the random writes on that SSD.

Yeah, about as slow as a HDD. If the web browser is caching files on a bunch of tabs...

Actual "silent" for a computer is pretty hard to do, but "quiet" is easy. To make a system more quiet, you need to do 3 things.
1) Choose parts that don't need much cooling.
2) Minimize the number of moving parts (fans, HDDs).
2) When you have to use moving parts, choose ones that are already quiet.

Here are some thoughts on the build.

RAM - Do go with cheaper RAM (no need for fancy heatsinks) and use two sticks. Probably 2x2GB=4GB would suffice.

PSU - The CX430 is on the noisy side for a PSU, so avoid for a "quiet" system.

Case - Contact the vendor to see if they would be getting more of the Antec NSK 3480 in stock. The reason is that it makes for a nice quiet system because it has decent airflow with a 120mm Tri Cool exhaust, good quality and quiet Earthwatts PSU, ultra-soft HDD grommets, spots for front fans with indirect air path (not that they are needed), and the metal is REALLY thick and not prone to vibrations.

How much space do you really need? If it isn't much but you need much more than 30GB can hold, you may want to consider a bigger SSD and no HDD. For instance the site you linked has a Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD for just a bit more than the HDD. So, you can run that one as your main drive and use your old 30GB SSD as some extra storage, and have no HDD.

 

[SCOOKIE]

....

I need HDD, have around 200gb of old stuff, which I keep needing again and again.. so external hard disk isnt an option..

Thanks for the tips I will keep them in mind. I tried to get the Antec one but they said they wont be getting more stock of it. Can you suggest me some other cabinet from http://www.flipkart.com/browse/comp...is_available:true&layout=grid&sort=price_desc

Thanks again

 

[Cerb]

On HDD I get the same problem, I have 1Gb ram.

That's just too little RAM. I've had that much or more for around 8 years, and can honestly say I've never used anything of the Core 2/Phenom generation or newer with less than 2GB. Even 2GB can get Windows 7 into pausing for small fractions of a second here and there to flush (but <0.2s pauses are usually tolerable).

If you get 8GB RAM and an i3, you practically won't know what to do with your PC. Add in a new SSD (Corsair Neutron, if it also has to come from Flipkart, IMO), and you'll be flying.


Also, I guess I missed it the first time around:
http://www.flipkart.com/cooler-mast...FBXS&ref=52f7f8ed-a7fd-4a42-b911-286f5957c3ca

There's a fair case, in stock, with USB 3.0 support.


Also, this looks to be the best 120mm fan they've got:
http://www.flipkart.com/deepcool-uf...Y4RH&ref=7903eeed-3ab4-4320-9d68-1f45359940d0

I can't say from experience with it, but it has good reviews.

 

[SCOOKIE]

Thanks, it looks awesome.

Do you think Asrock will be better?

I heard they have faster post boot time, not sure though. On youtube this particular asrock post boot time is 15 sec (which I dont think is really good for post boot)

Motherboard link
http://www.flipkart.com/asrock-b75m...GW5F&ref=6fae65de-cf17-4855-9787-5fcef5a102f5

Youtube link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYtFNT53j9Q

I tried to search for my gigabyte post boot time, but cant find any video for this model

 

[Cerb]

So here's what I'm thinking as a base, only ordering from Flipkart:
Case: Cooler Master Silencio 550
Video card: Sapphire HD 5450 - the 6450 offers practically nothing more, and it's cheaper. Both are DL-DVI+HDMI+VGA, capable of 2560x1440 on the DVI.
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B75M-D3H - the other good choice for not much would be the ASRock B75M, but it has no USB 3.0 panel headers.
RAM: 2x Transcend 4GB DDR3-1333 - the G.Skill and A-Data would be fine, too, but Transcend is good.
PSU: Seasonic S12II 520W - not the cheapest, but quality and quiet.
HDD: WD Green 2B would be fine, as in your first post. Only good for data, but it will be fairly quiet.
SSD: Corsair Neutron 120GB - honestly, a Crucial V4 could probably be found cheaper, and would be plenty, but not at Flipkart.

OK, now there's just one problem. There's still a CPU, CPU cooler, and probably a 120mm fan or two left to go, and I come up with about $680...and that's totally ignoring a copy of Windows. Cutting down some on the PSU and case might help, but not enough to bring the whole thing much under $800. Even going AMD might make it hard to do.

Was not your budget $500-600 (equivalent)? Or, is this one different than the very first thread?

Ultimately, I think most of your performance problem now is old SSDs on old hardware, and not nearly enough RAM. Most the additional costs up there are for parts to make a build you could sleep next to, and to be sure of high res support (I can't find confirmation or denial for >1920x1200 support w/ Intel IGP--anybody know one way or another?).

 

[mfenn]

(I can't find confirmation or denial for >1920x1200 support w/ Intel IGP--anybody know one way or another?).

It does, but only if you use DisplayPort.

 

[mfenn]

I heard they have faster post boot time, not sure though. On youtube this particular asrock post boot time is 15 sec (which I dont think is really good for post boot)

A 15 second post time is quite average for an Ivy Bridge board. I'm willing to bet that the B75 board can best the Z77 boards in this chart because it isn't going to have as many add-on controllers to boot.