Is it worth to upgrade from S350DB to 360 or any other?

[Prosecutorr]

Hey!

Currently, I'm the owner of Edifier S350DB for a month or so, do love them, but need to find DB9 cable to extend the connection of right satellite and place the subwoofer in the correct place.

I'm reading now a lot about S360DB's, I know that the treble would be quite better because of the ribbon twitter (still they can't beat my Adam T8V in that), but what about the bass? It would be smoother/lauder/better?

Adam is fine, but not for my needs.

Like the price, the difference is 100 EUR + audio card for the better sound.

Is it worth it? Or just to stick with my S350DB, set subwoofer in the correct place and buy an audio card to improve the quality of the sound of my current 350's?

Currently, I connect them directly to the motherboard via optical cable. Mainly listening to music, sometimes playing games. Even with bass boost on satellite, I hear the buzz when I'm listening to the music through Spotify.

When I was choosing the audio system I understood that there are no much options on 2.1 and like I do not wanna go +400 EUR, in this terms this system is just killer. S350DBB cost me 275 EUR, while S360DB costs 375 EUR, so yeah...

So yeah, what would you suggest? I love the sound quality, but I wanna get a little more bass, maybe i need to find the correct place for the current one and i will get the wished result, but still wanna hear your opinion! Maybe I should look for something different.


I would be thankful if you could help me to sort it out.

 

[damian101]

A sound card makes zero difference for digital connections like the optical cable you're currently using. Also, the onboard sound chip is normally very good to excellent nowadays, so an upgrade there normally makes a minuscule difference to the listening experience at best.
From the specs it seems like the biggest difference between the two systems is that the satellites have a lower audio frequency range, don't know how much that matters in real life, the subwoofers seem to be almost identical, so I wouldn't look at the S360DB for a different behaviour in the low bass region.

 

[Prosecutorr]

A sound card makes zero difference for digital connections like the optical cable you're currently using. Also, the onboard sound chip is normally very good to excellent nowadays, so an upgrade there normally makes a minuscule difference to the listening experience at best.
From the specs it seems like the biggest difference between the two systems is that the satellites have a lower audio frequency range, don't know how much that matters in real life, the subwoofers seem to be almost identical, so I wouldn't look at the S360DB for different behaviour in the low bass region.

Thank you! Maybe i should look into another 2.1 audio system?

Also, how would you suggest to connect them? RCA, Optical or Coaxial? From the internet, i have understood that the best ones are Coaxial, but for that, I will need a DAC/Audio Card that does have Coaxial connector too.

*RCA to 3.5mm jack.

 

[damian101]

Unfortunately I don't know much about different 2.1 audio systems on the market, can't really help you there.
About the different connections: Both optical and coaxial provide the same identical digital audio signal. RCA connectors are used for analog audio. If you want to bypass your computers onboard DAC you should use a digital audio output, if you want to bypass your audio systems DAC you should use an analog input. If you mistrust both you'd have to get another DAC like a sound card or USB audio interface and use an analog input of your audio system; but I don't think that would be worth the money, I personally would just continue using the optical Toslink cable.

 

[Prosecutorr]

Unfortunately I don't know much about different 2.1 audio systems on the market, can't really help you there.
About the different connections: Both optical and coaxial provide the same identical digital audio signal. RCA connectors are used for analog audio. If you want to bypass your computers onboard DAC you should use a digital audio output, if you want to bypass your audio systems DAC you should use an analog input. If you mistrust both you'd have to get another DAC like a sound card or USB audio interface and use an analog input of your audio system; but I don't think that would be worth the money, I personally would just continue using the optical Toslink cable.

I'm currently looking at Syrincs M3-220 DT, maybe you know something about them

 

[damian101]

@Prosecutorr Looks like a solid choice. But don't know if it's worth the upgrade. The subwoofer should have more power than the one from the Edifier systems.
One thing that you should consider before buying it is that it only accepts XLR as inputs, which means you'll need a high-end USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC404HD, or a small mixing panel, or just some analog adapters. This 2.1 audio system was clearly made for a professional environment.

 

[Prosecutorr]

@Prosecutorr Looks like a solid choice. But don't know if it's worth the upgrade. The subwoofer should have more power than the one from the Edifier systems.
One thing that you should consider before buying it is that it only accepts XLR as inputs, which means you'll need a high-end USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC404HD, or a small mixing panel, or just some analog adapters. This 2.1 audio system was clearly made for a professional environment.

Yeah, I know, I'm looking to buy the Behringer U-Phoria UMC22

Also looking at the box pro Achat Mini Bundle. By your opinion, what would you suggest to me?

Also what anti-vibration pads I should choose for a subwoofer? Was planning to buy everything from thomann shop.

 

[damian101]

The UMC22 doesn't have XLR outputs, and also doesn't have the high-end DAC that's only in the U-Phoria HD models like the UMC202HD and higher. You might as well use your onboard sound chip before you buy one of the non-HD models.
I also can't recommend the the box pro Achat Mini Bundle for your use case. It's a PA system, capable of producing high loudness, which I expect to come at the expense of sound quality.
the anti-vibration pad I would buy is the t.akustik ISO-Pad 7, it will get you one more pad than you need but it's still by far the most affordable option for the Syrincs subwoofer, at least on Thomann.

 

[Prosecutorr]

The UMC22 doesn't have XLR outputs, and also doesn't have the high-end DAC that's only in the U-Phoria HD models like the UMC202HD and higher. You might as well use your onboard sound chip before you buy one of the non-HD models.
I also can't recommend the the box pro Achat Mini Bundle for your use case. It's a PA system, capable of producing high loudness, which I expect to come at the expense of sound quality.
the anti-vibration pad I would buy is the t.akustik ISO-Pad 7, it will get you one more pad than you need but it's still by far the most affordable option for the Syrincs subwoofer, at least on Thomann.

Which DAC you would suggest then? Why not just to use XLR to jack connection like on UMC22?
I see that t.akustik ISO-Pad 7 is for satellites, how I will adjust them for a subwoofer? Just put then under from each side and nothing more?

So you would recommend me the Syrincs M3-220 DT then? Or you could suggest any other which will be good for my use case(listening to music, watching tv shows and sometimes playing games(like CoD Warzone, where you should hear the walking)?

 

[Dranoche]

Need to verify that the ports on the Syrincs can take an unbalanced signal. It probably can, with the possibility of there being more noise carried through, but it isn't intended to. The S360 would be a lot easier to set up, and cheaper due to not needing an external DAC. The mid-range drivers on the S360 are a good bit bigger than on the S350 (4-in vs 2.8-in), and the same size as on the Syrincs, though the Syrincs monitors each have 2 mid-range drivers. The Syrincs have more power, but that's probably mostly for the extra drivers. It's also more than is really needed given the size of the drivers, so I don't think it will be an obvious improvement over the S360. The extension on the monitors and subwoofer isn't any deeper on the Syrincs than on the S360.

Within your budget I don't think you're going to find a setup with a larger subwoofer, but I don't think that's really the issue. Smaller drivers on the monitors mean the subwoofer is carrying a lot more of the frequency range, particularly the mid to upper bass frequencies (~100-300 Hz), that it isn't great at producing. Larger monitor drivers will have a lot more punch at those frequencies, making it sound a lot bigger, even with the same subwoofer. 4-inch drivers will be a decent improvement over what you have now. 4.5 to 5-inch would be really good. If you can stretch your budget a bit and/or find the gear on sale, KRK or JBL might have what you're looking for.

The cables on the Edifier look to be 5-pin XLR or DIN, and DE-15.

 

[Prosecutorr]

Need to verify that the ports on the Syrincs can take an unbalanced signal. It probably can, with the possibility of there being more noise carried through, but it isn't intended to. The S360 would be a lot easier to set up, and cheaper due to not needing an external DAC. The mid-range drivers on the S360 are a good bit bigger than on the S350 (4-in vs 2.8-in), and the same size as on the Syrincs, though the Syrincs monitors each have 2 mid-range drivers. The Syrincs have more power, but that's probably mostly for the extra drivers. It's also more than is really needed given the size of the drivers, so I don't think it will be an obvious improvement over the S360. The extension on the monitors and subwoofer isn't any deeper on the Syrincs than on the S360.

Within your budget I don't think you're going to find a setup with a larger subwoofer, but I don't think that's really the issue. Smaller drivers on the monitors mean the subwoofer is carrying a lot more of the frequency range, particularly the mid to upper bass frequencies (~100-300 Hz), that it isn't great at producing. Larger monitor drivers will have a lot more punch at those frequencies, making it sound a lot bigger, even with the same subwoofer. 4-inch drivers will be a decent improvement over what you have now. 4.5 to 5-inch would be really good. If you can stretch your budget a bit and/or find the gear on sale, KRK or JBL might have what you're looking for.

The cables on the Edifier look to be 5-pin XLR or DIN, and DE-15.

Well, the subwoofer on Syrincs has more power, might be the same frequency, but Syrincs is more on hi-end sound, so it should sound definitely even the bass should be deeper.

I can stretch it a little bit, what you could suggest to me? 550-600 EUR would be enough?

 

[sdifox]

How far are you from the speakers?

 

[Prosecutorr]

How far are you from the speakers?

0.5 m or so.

 

[sdifox]

0.5 m or so.

Do you have a music instruments shop nearby? Go listen to active monitors. KRK RP7 or RP8 should work. I have no idea how they are priced in EU.

Amazon.com

KRK Rokit RP8 G4

Active Studio Monitor Equipped with: 8" glass aramid woofer and 1" glass aramid tweeter, Power: 203 W - 68 W tweeter, 135 W bass driver, Bi-amped Class-D amplifier, Frequency response: 36 - 40000 Hz, Maximum sound pressure level: 111 dB (SPL),...

m.thomann.de

 

[Prosecutorr]

Do you have a music instruments shop nearby? Go listen to active monitors. KRK RP7 or RP8 should work. I have no idea how they are priced in EU.

Amazon.com

Nope, we don't have them in stock here in Latvia. I do own pair of Adam T8V, I think KRK will be +/- the same? Adam didn't fit me, so I think for this RKR's I will need a subwoofer?

And also if i will choose KRK's what DAC you would suggest?

P.S What do you think about Edifier S3000 Pro?

 

[sdifox]

Nope, we don't have them in stock here in Latvia. I do own pair of Adam T8V, I think KRK will be +/- the same? Adam didn't fit me, so I think for this RKR's I will need a subwoofer?

And also if i will choose KRK's what DAC you would suggest?

P.S What do you think about Edifier S3000 Pro?

No you won't need a sub. RP8 come with 8" woofers xd.

They are not in Adam A7X territory obviously. I have not heard the Edifier so cannot comment on it. Speaker choice is very personal.

 

[Prosecutorr]

No you won't need a sub. RP8 come with 8" woofers xd.

Yeah, but when i was using Adam T8V's the bass haven't impressed me. How new KRK's are compared to them?

Will they fit my needs?

And also what about the question about DAC and Edifier?

Thank you for your help!

 

[sdifox]

Yeah, but when i was using Adam T8V's the bass haven't impressed me. How new KRK's are compared to them?

Will they fit my needs?

And also what about the question about DAC and Edifier?

Thank you for your help!

There is correct amount of bass, and then there is stupid amount of bass. Remember each of the 8" woofer is driven by 135W amp. You don't need more than that for one person.


I would not bother with a DAC on modern PCs. Analogue out is fine.


My HT setup has been in boxes since I moved in Dec 2011

15" woofer driven by 500w amp in each of my BP2000 :awe:

 

[Prosecutorr]

There is correct amount of bass, and then there is stupid amount of bass. Remember each of the 8" woofer is driven by 135W amp. You don't need more than that for one person.


I would not bother with a DAC on modern PCs. Analogue out is fine.


My HT setup has been in boxes since moved in Dec 2011

15" woofer driven by 500w amp in each of my BP2000 :awe:

So XLR to 3.5mm jack?

Well yeah, it makes sense. Adams having 70W on 8" woofer.

My current order is KRK Rokit RP8 G4 + the t.akustik ISO-Pad 8. Do i need monitor stand?

 

[sdifox]

So XLR to 3.5mm jack?

Well yeah, it makes sense. Adams having 70W on 8" woofer.

My current order is KRK Rokit RP8 G4 + the t.akustik ISO-Pad 8. Do i need monitor stand?

Oh didn't know they eliminate the unbalanced input. Maybe something like this? Can drive headphones as well.

M-Audio AIR 192|4

2-Channel USB Audio Interface 24-bit / 192 kHz, Low-noise M-Audio Crystal preamplifier, MIC/LINE input (input 1): 1 XLR/jack combo, 48 V Phantom power switchable, Instrument input (input 2): 6.3 mm jack, 2 Outputs: 6.3 mm jack balanced (volume...

m.thomann.de

Or just the Air Hub if all you need is playback.

M-Audio AIR|Hub

Audio Interface With 24-bit / 96 kHz resolution, 2 Balanced 6.3 mm outputs, Large volume control, USB 2.0 hub for three separate USB MIDI devices, 6.3 mm headphone output with independent level control, Robust metal housing, Dimensions (W x D x H):...

m.thomann.de

You have to decide if you want stands. I don't know your space situation.

 

[Prosecutorr]

Oh didn't know they eliminate the unbalanced input. Maybe something like this? Can drive headphones as well.

M-Audio AIR 192|4

2-Channel USB Audio Interface 24-bit / 192 kHz, Low-noise M-Audio Crystal preamplifier, MIC/LINE input (input 1): 1 XLR/jack combo, 48 V Phantom power switchable, Instrument input (input 2): 6.3 mm jack, 2 Outputs: 6.3 mm jack balanced (volume...

m.thomann.de

Or just the Air Hub if all you need is playback.

M-Audio AIR|Hub

Audio Interface With 24-bit / 96 kHz resolution, 2 Balanced 6.3 mm outputs, Large volume control, USB 2.0 hub for three separate USB MIDI devices, 6.3 mm headphone output with independent level control, Robust metal housing, Dimensions (W x D x H):...

m.thomann.de

You have to decide if you want stands. I don't know your space situation.

I think i will go with Behringer UMC404HD or Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD.

What connection will be better? XLR to jack or XLR to "XLR"?

Attached my current working space. As I heard the monitors should me on ear level.

 

[sdifox]

I think i will go with Behringer UMC404HD or Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD.

What connection will be better? XLR to jack or XLR to "XLR"?

Attached my current working space. As I heard the monitors should me on ear level.

Just stick a few books below. They are 40cm tall.

USB to XLR So computer --- usb --- Behringer --- XLR --- RP8

 

[Prosecutorr]

Just stick a few books below. They are 40cm tall.

USB to XLR So computer --- usb --- Behringer --- XLR --- RP8

Yeah, but how should I connect KRK to Behringer? XLR to XLR or XLR to jack 6.2mm? Or they will be actually the same?

Once again, thank you for your help!

 

[sdifox]

Yeah, but how should I connect KRK to Behringer? XLR to XLR or XLR to jack 6.2mm? Or they will be actually the same?

Once again, thank you for your help!

XLR-XLR, standard way.

 

[Prosecutorr]

XLR-XLR, standard way.

And the last question, this cable will be fine https://www.thomann.de/intl/lv/cordial_cam6bk.htm ?