Is it difficult to install a water softener?

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bolomite

Diamond Member
Oct 12, 2000
3,276
1
0
It's really not too hard to sweat (i.e. weld) copper fittings, look up some youtube videos. You'll have to purchase a torch, sandpaper, flux, solder, and whatever fittings you decide to use.
 

MonKENy

Platinum Member
Nov 1, 2007
2,026
3
81
Alright so, my pain problems are the drain and the soldering. I'll remember your extension cord advice lol. :p Is there any chance I can get some kind of connector/adapter so I won't have to solder the connection? I guess I wouldn't mind paying, but I like to try to do things myself so I can learn. I think it's fun doing DIY stuff, but sometimes frustrating.

you can try

Sharkbite Fittings

Sharkbite-brand fittings are a great example of incredibly fast, easy (and expensive) fittings that can replace any soldered fitting in almost any application. They come in standard shapes and sizes, from 1/2" up to 1".

The key to the success of sharkbite fittings is their simplicity – just slide them onto the end of the pipe. No need to tighten, no chemicals, no tools. That's it. They seal using an ingenious o-ring design that even allows them to rotate in the fitting and remain sealed.

The best part? They can be reused. Simply pull back on the thin flange around the pipe and they pull right off.

These fittings would surely be replacing most others if it wasn't for their price tag (which varies from store to store, but are generally more than $5 (US) a piece! So unless one is somewhat wealthy, they should be used with caution.


Or also

E-Z Sweat Fittings

These are fittings which seem just like standard solder fittings, except they have a small ring around the connecting ends. This ring comes prefilled with solder, so all one has to do is to apply flux to the pipe and fitting, slide it on, and heat it up. The hard part (which is really not hard at all) is already done.

These are a great first step for someone interested in learning to solder.
 

DrPizza

Administrator Elite Member Goat Whisperer
Mar 5, 2001
49,601
167
111
www.slatebrookfarm.com
I have not worked with copper. :( This may actually be harder to install than I imagined. The connectors look like they are not threaded. If they need to be soldered, and I cant buy anything that would work in lieu of soldering, I'm kind of screwed. Theres not an electrical outlet in the same room. We dont use the basement, so I guess I could use an extension cord since I dont care about looks (there's a plug in the next room over), but I dont know how safe that would be. And I have NO idea how to make a drain. The next room over is a shower/bathroom.

adlkjaskdjsakldasjlkdjas arghhhhhhhhh

Soldering is incredibly easy. Without looking, I'd bet there are 1000 or more how to videos on youtube. This should be a pretty easy project. Personally, I'd avoid the sump pump & drain it directly into the drain lines (if possible.) I've only installed one before; something or other I got at Sears. As I recall (and I see it every time I add salt), the drain hose is quite long. 20 feet or so. If you have a washing machine nearby, you might be able to drain it into the same drain. But, if you have to install extra drain lines, etc., I'd still probably end up using the sump pump, but would pay attention to what it's constructed of. (I've used a lot of sump pumps in pond recycling and filtration systems. The ones I purchased were completely housed in plastic with a plastic impeller - brine probably wouldn't affect them at all. And, if this is what you have, then by all means, aim for the sump pump.)

Someone mentioned that the cheap ones don't have all those ammenities like battery back-up. Well, for the couple hundred dollars you saved, remember, if the alarm clock is blinking and you need to reset the time, go to your basement and reset the time on the water softener. How they work is actually incredibly simple; (imho), those expensive ones don't do any better of a job. Most of the time, there's no mechanical stuff going on - the water is flowing through the resin in your water softener. Sodium ions attached to the resin are being replaced by calcium & magnesium ions. Every so often, which you program & determine from the hardness of your water & how much water you use, the softener actually does something - it floods the resin with brine. The sheer amount of sodium chloride causes the magnesium and calcium (and other) ions to be released from the resin. It then flushes all of that brine out of the system into the drain.

morton salt on sale @ sears for 40LB 3.99 ... pretty good price for some quality salt for the softener!

http://slickdeals.net/f/5893582-40l...lt-pellets-3-99-or-less-free-in-store-pick-up

Aldis also has the salt for a pretty good price (and I think it's made by Morton)
 

mvbighead

Diamond Member
Apr 20, 2009
3,793
1
81
I find that costco has a consistently good price on salt. $4.99 for a 50lb bag. Most places around me want $4.99 for a 40lb bag.

You'll have to deal with a little extra weight, but you're getting 10lbs free (basically).

As for me, I have a water filter that is in front of my water softner that came with the house. Both are simple store brand whatevers, but the water softner looks a bit older. Water seems fine.
 

DCal430

Diamond Member
Feb 12, 2011
6,020
9
81
Please consider other options to a water softener. Water softeners are extremely polluting to the environment. They are one of the leading causes of fresh water pollution. They are destructive to the environment.
 

DCal430

Diamond Member
Feb 12, 2011
6,020
9
81
Many areas have in fact banned these water softeners because they are so destructive to the environment and their contribution to the destruction of many fresh water species.
 

Elixer

Lifer
May 7, 2002
10,371
762
126
You can just google water softeners and the destruction they cause to the environment. You don't need to soften water.

Yeah, right.
Sure, nobody actually needs it, unless they are sick with all of the issues that happen when you have very hard water and it ruins your pipes and all appliances hooked up to that source, not to mention all the staining hard water causes, which require more chemicals to clean, and buying CLR by the barrel.
Surely, it is better to buy & throw away those appliances instead of using a proven, working solution that actually saves the environment in the long run. :rolleyes:

edit* whoops, just saw what kazaam said... and we pretty much agree on this.
 

ManBearPig

Diamond Member
Sep 5, 2000
9,173
6
81
One company (the one Doug recommended, qualitywatertreatment) recommended this for $550 and ohiopurewater (someone recommended this site too) recommended this for $555 (he said $573, so there may be shipping or some customizable option available for extra).

I think they're both the same lol. I dunno. Still a bit more than I wanted to spend. I may just go with what I have.
 
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thecoolnessrune

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2005
9,673
583
126
If I had it to do over again and I was going to *own* the tank, then I would get a dual resin tank. That way, you are only washing the resin in brine when the tank *needs* to be renewed, rather than doing it on a schedule or after so much water. Having a dual tank removes the concern of balancing water, and salt waste, with the chance of running out of softened water on a heavy use day. If you have your parents have additional family or people and go through a lot of water (I only go through about 2000 gallons a month), then it may be worth the extra expense.

And yes, it appears you already have a "bypass valve", in the fact that you can turn off both water feeds readily, and then turn on the bypass path with your current "H" setup.
 

benzylic

Golden Member
Jun 12, 2006
1,547
1
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One company (the one Doug recommended, qualitywatertreatment) recommended this for $550 and ohiopurewater (someone recommended this site too) recommended this for $555 (he said $573, so there may be shipping or some customizable option available for extra).

I think they're both the same lol. I dunno. Still a bit more than I wanted to spend. I may just go with what I have.

The Fleck is what my parents put it. Its work really well. Its metered so you dont have to remember to backwash it, just have to remember to put salt in the bin. The meter valve on my parents unit developed a crack the day after they put it in, but the seller and manufacturer were cool and sent a new one the next day.
 

Squisher

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
21,204
66
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There some really nice Youtube videos on sweating pipes. Those look to be gate valves and as such don't need any disassembly before soldering.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
21,985
6,298
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There is a code approved glue for copper pipe, I believe it's called "Copper Lock". I've used it once in a situation where there was a real risk of fire from conventional sweating, seems to work.