From the article:
The most important factor in producing good, flavorful pasta secca is the drying. Traditionally, pasta is dried at low temperatures, around 104 degrees, for a long time -- as long as 30 hours for spaghetti and longer for more complicated shapes. Industrial pasta may be dried very quickly at temperatures ranging from 140 to 194 degrees, or even higher.
At 140 degrees, Carlo Latini says, the starch molecules in wheat open, and a Maillard reaction, a chemical term for toasting, begins. The dark yellow color that this toasting produces in conventionally made pasta is an easy way to distinguish the product from traditionally made pasta, which has a pale creamy hue.
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Yeah, while we still eat the cheap industrial dried pasta often, we prefer the low temperature dried stuff. It's tastes like the stuff you get from simple air drying. (My mom used to make Asian noodles with an Italian pasta maker and then air dry it. The texture of air dried pasta after cooking is very similar to fresh pasta.) Unfortunately, the low temperature dried stuff is also expensive, about three times the price IIRC. But then again, cheap pasta is dirt cheap so expensive pasta is still not that bad.
The article mentions that Barilla is #1 in Italy. That may be true, but most Barilla pasta still isn't great. (We buy Barilla sometimes here, if it's on sale, but it's pretty much the same as other cheap brands like
Catelli.) People don't eat it because they love it. They eat it because it's cheap and convenient.
BTW, there are a lot of crappy restaurants in Italy too. When we were in Italy we discovered a lot of them, even when we thought we got off the main tourist drags. Apparently we didn't venture far enough. When my wife's relatives came to meet us days later, they showed us what proper Italian restaurants were. Big difference.
And no, I'm definitely not a pasta expert. But once you get used to fresh pasta or at least air dried pasta, you really start to crave it if all you've been eating is cheap industrial dried pasta. Mind you my toddler kids don't give a chit. They'll eat any kind of pasta and it's all the same to them.