Intel i5 2500K Build - Please Review

Mar 13, 2011
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I've posted the cost of each part as a guidance (Converted from my home currency to USD.). The local retailers here, on average, mark up $10-20 for parts. (Compared to NewEgg.)

Purposes of computer, listed in terms of priority:
  1. Gaming
  2. Web browsing + general productivity
  3. Photoshop + Illustrator + InDesign + Premier (Minor thing, but would be great if these apps will run great on my build.)

CPU: Intel i5 2500K (3.3 ghz quad) - $257
RAM: G.SKILL DDR3 1333 4G x2 - $58 (Someone suggested me to get 1333 instead of 1600 because it is unlikely that I will take advantage of it. I can also get 8GB instead of 4GB if I get 1333 instead of 1600.
Graphics Card: Sapphire Vapor-x HD6870 - $219 (There is a $67 difference between the 6950 and the 6870. Is it fine to get the 6870?)
Motherboard: Asus P8H67 $130 or MSI P67A-GD53-H (B3) $186 (What is the difference between the two boards, and is the price difference justifiable, or can I stick with P8H67? (I don't intend to overclock or SLI/crossfire.)
PSU: Undecided - I need a PSU that supports this build in terms of watts, and I need it to come with a wire as well. (Not eco brand I think.) I've been told that I need a modular PSU - is it really worth it/necessary?

Case: CoolerMaster HAF 912 - $65
HD: WD Caviar Blue 500GB (7200RPM) - Unfortunately they don't sell Caviar Black at low capacities here for affordable price. - $41
DVD Burner:Pioneer 24X SATA DVD - $23

$663 so far, not including the cost of the motherboard and PSU. I already have a mouse and monitor, and will be getting the keyboard separately. (Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800)

How's the build, what can I improve, and could the questions above be answered?

Thanks in advance. :)
 

StrangerGuy

Diamond Member
May 9, 2004
8,443
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Mobo: Unless you need specific features such as Firewire/eSATA/USB3.0 front headers, just buy the basic no-frills board. Everything is so integrated by default these days that mobos aren't really worth spending much money on.

RAM: DDR3 1600 is OK if it is cost around the same than standard 1333. If not just choose the cheapest branded 1333. Once again, not something worth spending lotsa money on.

PSU: ~$50 Antec Earthwatts/Neo Eco line 450W+. Cheap, but solid and reliable.

Video card: A 6950 would be better bang-for-the buck.
 
Mar 13, 2011
134
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Mobo: Unless you need specific features such as Firewire/eSATA/USB3.0 front headers, just buy the basic no-frills board. Everything is so integrated by default these days that mobos aren't really worth spending much money on.

RAM: DDR3 1600 is OK if it is cost around the same than standard 1333. If not just choose the cheapest branded 1333. Once again, not something worth spending lotsa money on.

PSU: ~$50 Antec Earthwatts/Neo Eco line 450W+. Cheap, but solid and reliable.

Video card: A 6950 would be better bang-for-the buck.

Alright.

RAM: Ok. It'd be better for me to stick with the 1333 then. It's 2.5x more expensive if I choose the 1600 option, not to mention that I would have to downgrade from 8GB (2x4) to 4GB (2x2).

PSU: Would a 520 watt PSU be enough? Someone told me that it'd be better to get 620. (Seasonic S12II-620 - is this good?)

Video card: It's $70 more expensive here between the 6870 and 6950 - is the performance increase worth that?
 
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Raswan

Senior member
Jan 29, 2010
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Alright.

RAM: Ok. It'd be better for me to stick with the 1333 then. It's 2.5x more expensive if I choose the 1600 option, not to mention that I would have to downgrade from 8GB (2x4) to 4GB (2x2).

PSU: Would a 520 watt PSU be enough? Someone told me that it'd be better to get 620. (Seasonic S12II-620 - is this good?)

Video card: It's $70 more expensive here between the 6870 and 6950 - is the performance increase worth that?

PSU: 520w will be fine, as long as it's a quality psu. A cheaper psu and you might have to get a 620w. I like Corsair and Antec. You don't need a modular one unless you're obsessed with things looking as clean as possible.

Video Card: Check the bench out comparing the 6950 and the 6870 and choose for yourself if it is worth it. Granted, it's just a gaming benchmark comparison, and the 6950 will likely pull ahead more for things like photoshop, etc. Totally up to you.

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/290?vs=331
 

mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
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www.mfenn.com
To those posting Newegg links, the OP is not in the US.

OP, Raswan is right on with his advice. I'd add a few things:
- Get the least expensive 6870 you can. It's not worth paying for a factory overclock that you could do yourself.
- For mobo, if you don't want to OC the CPU, then H67 is fine. If you do want to OC you would need P67 or preferably Z68. Definitely find the least expensive ASUS, Gigabyte, MSI, or ASRock that meets your needs.
- A quality 520W PSU is a gracious plenty for this build. Don't worry if it comes with a power lead, those are very cheap ($2).
 

Blue Shift

Senior member
Feb 13, 2010
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Since you won't be overclocking your CPU, you should consider switching from the i5 2500K to the 2500 (no 'k').
 
Mar 13, 2011
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Okay, I'm about to buy now. Final check - is everything good?

CPU: Intel i5 2500K (3.3 ghz quad)
RAM: G.SKILL DDR3 1333 4G x2
Graphics Card: Sapphire Vapor-x HD6870
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 LE
Power Supply: Seasonic S12II-620

Case: CoolerMaster HAF 912
Hard Drive: WD Caviar Blue 500GB
DVD Burner: Pioneer 24X SATA DVD

Keyboard: Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800
 

Raswan

Senior member
Jan 29, 2010
702
6
81
Okay, I'm about to buy now. Final check - is everything good?

CPU: Intel i5 2500K (3.3 ghz quad)
RAM: G.SKILL DDR3 1333 4G x2
Graphics Card: Sapphire Vapor-x HD6870
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 LE
Power Supply: Seasonic S12II-620

Case: CoolerMaster HAF 912
Hard Drive: WD Caviar Blue 500GB
DVD Burner: Pioneer 24X SATA DVD

Keyboard: Microsoft Wireless Keyboard 800

I still say you're paying too much for your Power Supply. Something like the Antec 550w Continuous Power will do you fine (it's even modular, so yeah!), and I don't remember where you are buying from, but it's a full 30$ cheaper on newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371016

Also, as mfenn said, if you are not overclocking get an H67. It'll be cheaper. Otherwise, skip the p67 altogether and get a z68 (essentially combines the advantages of the h and p boards, plus a newer revision, and there's no point in buying a p when the z's are the same price).

Examples of each:

H67: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138296 (saves you almost $40 off of your current board)

Z68: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128520 (just came out about 3 weeks ago, and saves you $20 off of your current board)

Saves you from $50-$70 bucks (assuming you can find them. Good luck :) ). See if your etailers or retailers have those or something close. Otherwise, looks good. The 6870 is a rock solid card, and I think you made the right choice, since typically the 6950s (at least on here) get paired with the ~$1000 builds).
 

Blue Shift

Senior member
Feb 13, 2010
272
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Again, go with the i5 2500 if it's available. The only difference between it and the 2500k is that the 2500k is unlocked, which makes it a waste of money if you don't plan to overclock.
 

mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
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I still say you're paying too much for your Power Supply. Something like the Antec 550w Continuous Power will do you fine (it's even modular, so yeah!), and I don't remember where you are buying from, but it's a full 30$ cheaper on newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371016

Also, as mfenn said, if you are not overclocking get an H67. It'll be cheaper. Otherwise, skip the p67 altogether and get a z68 (essentially combines the advantages of the h and p boards, plus a newer revision, and there's no point in buying a p when the z's are the same price).

Examples of each:

H67: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138296 (saves you almost $40 off of your current board)

Z68: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128520 (just came out about 3 weeks ago, and saves you $20 off of your current board)

Saves you from $50-$70 bucks (assuming you can find them. Good luck :) ). See if your etailers or retailers have those or something close. Otherwise, looks good. The 6870 is a rock solid card, and I think you made the right choice, since typically the 6950s (at least on here) get paired with the ~$1000 builds).

Again, go with the i5 2500 if it's available. The only difference between it and the 2500k is that the 2500k is unlocked, which makes it a waste of money if you don't plan to overclock.

:thumbsup: To both.

Also, is the Vapor-X the least expensive 6870 that you can get?
 
Mar 13, 2011
134
0
0
I still say you're paying too much for your Power Supply. Something like the Antec 550w Continuous Power will do you fine (it's even modular, so yeah!), and I don't remember where you are buying from, but it's a full 30$ cheaper on newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817371016

Also, as mfenn said, if you are not overclocking get an H67. It'll be cheaper. Otherwise, skip the p67 altogether and get a z68 (essentially combines the advantages of the h and p boards, plus a newer revision, and there's no point in buying a p when the z's are the same price).

Examples of each:

H67: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813138296 (saves you almost $40 off of your current board)

Z68: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128520 (just came out about 3 weeks ago, and saves you $20 off of your current board)

Saves you from $50-$70 bucks (assuming you can find them. Good luck :) ). See if your etailers or retailers have those or something close. Otherwise, looks good. The 6870 is a rock solid card, and I think you made the right choice, since typically the 6950s (at least on here) get paired with the ~$1000 builds).

Unfortunately with Z68s, for some reason, the cheapest board is a $60 increase in price. o_O Not sure why.

A friend mentioned that it'd be best to keep options open (I buy my parts locally and they don't offer the best, if good, deals at all.), so 2500K would be a good idea, perhaps, and so I would have to stick with the P67 board.

Again, go with the i5 2500 if it's available. The only difference between it and the 2500k is that the 2500k is unlocked, which makes it a waste of money if you don't plan to overclock.

Might overclock in the future now, actually.

:thumbsup: To both.

Also, is the Vapor-X the least expensive 6870 that you can get?

Yes. There's also a Sapphire FLEX HD6870 that costs $25 more than the Vapor-X, but I'm not sure why - couldn't find any difference between the two cards when comparing them on NewEgg and it seems to me that the Vapor-X is just a FLEX with extra cooling capabilities(?).

NewEgg comparison
 
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mfenn

Elite Member
Jan 17, 2010
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Yes. There's also a Sapphire FLEX HD6870 that costs $25 more than the Vapor-X, but I'm not sure why - couldn't find any difference between the two cards when comparing them on NewEgg and it seems to me that the Vapor-X is just a FLEX with extra cooling capabilities(?).

NewEgg comparison

Yeah, that are pretty much the same thing with a different cooler. Man, your local pricing is really screwed up if the Flex costs more!