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Intel "Coffee Lake" Builders Thread

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psolord said:
why not make it more clear for end users that now A2/B2 is the thing? If I hadn't looked in the manual, I would have been troubleshooting this for I don't know how long.
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First of all, not checking the manual then blaming the manufacturer is a bit of a stretch. (although understandable, did this myself numerous times)

Second, I too was surprised to see the A2/B2 recommendation, but in my case MSI even had this clearly mentioned on the quick install guide and the motherboard PCB itself. (both on 1151 and AM4)
 
psolord said:
That would be very logical, if it would be in the context of a suggestion and not a forced limitation. I mean why not make it work in A1/B1 if the cpu cooler allows the user to do so? Like mine did.

Also since these things are meant for DIYers, why not make it more clear for end users that now A2/B2 is the thing? If I hadn't looked in the manual, I would have been troubleshooting this for I don't know how long.

Even so, in the manual there should be a warning that if you place RAM at A1/B1 it would not work correctly. A very logical notice for people carrying the A1/B1 knowledge with them.

I have always put my RAM on A1/B1 god damn it. What was more logical?
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One of the motherboards (can't remember which) I had came with a separate sheet with exactly that warning. I also recall reading about it, otherwise I would (like most users) have assumed A1/B1 configuration would have been the preferred configuration. I always check now.
 
coercitiv said:
First of all, not checking the manual then blaming the manufacturer is a bit of a stretch. (although understandable, did this myself numerous times)

Second, I too was surprised to see the A2/B2 recommendation, but in my case MSI even had this clearly mentioned on the quick install guide and the motherboard PCB itself. (both on 1151 and AM4)
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You are right on both accounts.

My objection lies to the fact that it was not made more clear, especially when most people come from platforms that A1/B1 is the norm.

I mean I don't know, maybe it was a new thing on Ivy, Haswell, Broadwell, Skylake or Kabylake. It's been a long time since I upgraded and I maybe I missed the specifics from all those series.

In any case, lesson learned. Proper reading of the manual first. I don't know everything! 😛
 
fastamdman said:
Challenge completed!! Great job passing AVX, albeit with higher temps and I'm sure prime 95 with AVX would put you into the 90s easily. I'm surprised at that voltage though, am I reading that right. Is it a maximum of 1.4 volts on one of the cores and a general vid of a maximum of 1.386. I thought you were running a much lower voltage from your previous post but maybe I read it wrong. Regardless, that is a gorgeous chip. If I owned that I would run it at the absolute max I could achieve with a 1.35 voltage, set it and forget about it. I'm curious how high you can get that chip stable. Will it boot at 54x 55x? I think it's safe to say that is a "golden" chip. Congrats on winning the silicon lottery man!! Have you ever had an amazing chip like this before in the past? My chip will do 5 to 5.3 as well, but I can't get it both AVX stable and non AVX stable with reasonable temps on my nzxt kraken x62. I'm thinking once I delid the chip though that I will be able to. I don't think I would have a problem running 1.4 volts through the chip 24/7 lol, but I live on the dangerous side =P Congrats once again, feel free to give me a challenge that is uh....a lot more reasonable than the one I set for you =P
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The low voltage is for 5 GHz. I raised it to 5.3Ghz long enough to run this. I didn’t bother finding lowest stable voltage for it. I just set it to 0 offset.
 
Ferzerp said:
The low voltage is for 5 GHz. I raised it to 5.3Ghz long enough to run this. I didn’t bother finding lowest stable voltage for it. I just set it to 0 offset.
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I'm dying to see how far you can push that chip without HT. Booting 5.3, 5.4 and using Intel's Xtreme Tuning Utility to up the clocks is one way to bypass boot problems.
 
Ok, preliminary OC results. I reached 5GHz! What do I win? 😛

Here are my runs of Cinebench and cpuz benchmarks for the 8600k@5Ghz and the 2500k@4.8Ghz. The 2500k cpuz is old, so it does not count. I will rerun it asap.





I have set offset voltage to 80mv. The NB frequency reported is 4Ghz. Should I change it?

Temps are at mid 70s in the cinebench all core run. With a Noctua D14.

Also the cpu clock is stuck at 5Ghz. I'm pretty sure I have left speedstep enabled....Hmmm.
 
psolord said:
Ok, preliminary OC results. I reached 5GHz! What do I win? 😛

Here are my runs of Cinebench and cpuz benchmarks for the 8600k@5Ghz and the 2500k@4.8Ghz. The 2500k cpuz is old, so it does not count. I will rerun it asap.





I have set offset voltage to 80mv. The NB frequency reported is 4Ghz. Should I change it?

Temps are at mid 70s in the cinebench all core run. With a Noctua D14.

Also the cpu clock is stuck at 5Ghz. I'm pretty sure I have left speedstep enabled....Hmmm.
Click to expand...
Keep pushing!
 
Zucker2k said:
I'm dying to see how far you can push that chip without HT. Booting 5.3, 5.4 and using Intel's Xtreme Tuning Utility to up the clocks is one way to bypass boot problems.
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I think if I pushed it to find max OC, I would use static voltage instead of doing offsets. I find that most of my stability issues come from low-load scenarios on this one instead of high load. I have to up my voltage not to get stability under extreme load, but to maintain stability until I can start the load. I have no interest in doing this long term, but if I get bored and want to see how high it will go, that's what I'll do. If offset could be set as a percentage, or as a curve based on VID, it would probably be a better tool.
 
psolord said:
Now if I understand correctly, they suggest that when you have only two ram sticks, you should use slots DDR4_A2 and DDR4_B2 slots, right? However I have used the other two ports, A1 and B1 because I have always used those in my other systems.

Is the manual correct or is it an oversight? Using the second slots seems...wrong?
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No, the second set of slots is correct.
 
So Fed ex screwed up my package, and now I won't get my cpu until Monday.😡
I ended up ordering a delidding tool, and now I have a question, as I have never done this. Once you have delid the cpu, and remove the tim, what's the next step? Do you install the cooling device next or is there something else?
 
Muadib said:
So Fed ex screwed up my package, and now I won't get my cpu until Monday.😡
I ended up ordering a delidding tool, and now I have a question, as I have never done this. Once you have delid the cpu, and remove the tim, what's the next step? Do you install the cooling device next or is there something else?
Click to expand...

Once you remove the IHS from the processor you are going to want to clean off the die. It will have a bunch of thermal paste on it. Gently, very very gently, clean off the die. THEN after the die is clean, simply remove all of the black glue that was holding the IHS to the processor. Once all of the glue is off, apply your choice of thermal paste to the die itself. DO NOT FORGET TO HAVE THERMAL PASTE ON THE DIE. Then, gently put the IHS back on the cpu. Install the cpu into your motherboard. Then put thermal compound onto the IHS and install your water block or cpu cooler of choice 🙂 Hope this helps. For best results, please use something like liquid metal or thermal grizzly on the die itself.
 
DrMrLordX said:
You win a 5 GHz 8600k! Congratulations. Not bad on a D14. I put a D15 with loud fans on my current system. I wonder if temps or process are holding back Coffeelake at those levels? What kind of voltage scaling are you seeing above 4.8 GHz?
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My personal experience on the 8700k has been there is a decent jump between 4.8 and 5.0+ for my chip in voltage. My chip loves voltage but has no problem doing 5.2 or 5.3, it just has to have the voltage to back it up. I had another chip that was similar as well. Delidding should really help with these!
 
DrMrLordX said:
You win a 5 GHz 8600k! Congratulations. Not bad on a D14. I put a D15 with loud fans on my current system. I wonder if temps or process are holding back Coffeelake at those levels? What kind of voltage scaling are you seeing above 4.8 GHz?
Click to expand...

Indeed, it must be the easiest overclock ever. Easier than the Sandy Bridge even.

To tell you the truth, I only need a gaming stable 5Ghz profile, for benchmarks. I will mostly use it at stock or maybe a tiny bit above that. Like I did with my 2500k all these years. I am currently trying to figure a way to just mildly increase the boost clocks, along with very little additional voltage, say +10mV, for that small performance jump. It's pretty speedy as it is. The 3200Mhz ram also help I think.

At stock it's already 100% faster for my encodings, compared to my 4.3Ghz 2500k, which was its every day clock. Ok anything would be 100% faster than my 2500k in multithreaded apps, lol. I think I will aim for +200Mhz all core bost and +500Mhz single core boost, with a max 100W ceiling, as a middle ground between stock and OC.

For now I have succeeded in 5Ghz with +80mV offset voltage, which results in 1.328V in max load. Gaming/Benching temps are good, so I'm happy. 🙂

The 4.8Ghz profile provided by the motherboard, was using 1.41V fixed voltage, which was a no go.

Is 1.328V too much? Should I aim for a lower offset?
 
You should aim for whatever is the minimum stable voltage. I'm a little old school so I do all my tuning with fixed voltage + LLC but still it would be worth experimenting with a lower offset.
 
I agree, the lowest stable voltage you can use, you should fine. It takes a little more time to find it and dial it in, but it's worth it in the end. Plus, for me, I enjoy it. I've spent hours and hours already playing with overclocks and avx offsets etc. I really enjoy it though. I almost enjoy tinkering with overclocking as much as I do actually using the system for gaming and day to day use etc lol. For me personally, my "sweet spot" is 1.35v and under. That is just a spot that makes me feel comfortable. Now if I delid my chip and temps come down with that, I would feel fine running 1.4V 24/7 as long as the temps were in check and the extra voltage made say 5.2 or 5.3 stable for me. I've never had an issue running high voltages for years and years. My 4790k and 4770k are both still running strong and I put A TON of voltage through my 4770k. But I would suggest to find an overclock that you like for 24/7 use and then find the lowest stable voltage for it. Whether you want to do 5ghz or 4.8 for daily use, find the lowest stable voltage for it and enjoy it 🙂 Just make sure you thoroughly test with both avx and non avx. I use p95 non avx, and intel burn test / linx for avx. I also use cinebench and realbench for testing. I don't really care for p95 with avx as I feel it's an unreal testing methodology. There is nothing that I will be doing with my system that will need to be p95 avx stable. Video/audio encoding and gaming is mainly what I do with my system and the heat that p95 avx produces is just insane. I will see how I feel about it after a delid though, maybe my thoughts will change.
 
Finally have a GPU: Got my 1070 Ti (Zotac Mini version) today. 🙂

Combination of 8700 and 1070 Ti (overclocked) is giving me a higher overall score than my Ryzen 7 1700X plus Vega 64 did. The graphics score is a little lower, but the physics score (CPU) is higher.

33ljyuu.png


Haven't played actual games yet, but I'll be trying PUBG and Wolfenstein II tomorrow, for starters. Looks like a good combination so far for the money and size, though. I might stuff the build into a proper ITX case instead of open frame I'm working on because there's a little coil whine from the card (seems inescapable these days) that wouldn't be as audible in a case. Thinking of getting a Raijintek Metis since it's inexpensive and can fit this cooler (~131mm tall).
 
@Crono Why did you get a 1070ti instead of a 1080? Seems like a pointless card to me and a lot of others. The 1080 can be had for about the same price if you just find a decent deal on it.
 
fastamdman said:
Wouldn't the 1080 be just as good at mining as the 1070ti? Or is it the fact that the 1080 takes more power to run so its not "as" cost effective in mining?
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It's the difference in memory. GTX 1070 and GTX 1070 Ti have GDDR5 versus GDDR5X. GDDR5X has higher bandwidth but also higher latency, which some cryptocurrency algorithms are more sensitive to.

At $450 for the 1070 Ti I got, I thought it was worth it, and it likely will pay for itself before Volta arrives, even if it's only mining at the level of a 1070 (Vega 56/64 get 40+ MH/s vs ~30 with this). It may stay above the 1080 in resale because of mining, too. Current lowest price for a 1080 on Newegg is $500, and that's for a full-sized blower card. Not great for a mini ITX build.

I don't recall what the temps and power draw is for the 1080 (depends on card, too), but the 1070 Ti runs cool, which is important to me for a small build.
 
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Crono said:
Finally have a GPU: Got my 1070 Ti (Zotac Mini version) today. 🙂

Combination of 8700 and 1070 Ti (overclocked) is giving me a higher overall score than my Ryzen 7 1700X plus Vega 64 did. The graphics score is a little lower, but the physics score (CPU) is higher.

33ljyuu.png


Haven't played actual games yet, but I'll be trying PUBG and Wolfenstein II tomorrow, for starters. Looks like a good combination so far for the money and size, though. I might stuff the build into a proper ITX case instead of open frame I'm working on because there's a little coil whine from the card (seems inescapable these days) that wouldn't be as audible in a case. Thinking of getting a Raijintek Metis since it's inexpensive and can fit this cooler (~131mm tall).
Click to expand...


Wow 18506 overall score? The only time I got a higher score was in 3dmark06. xD

Still my OC GTX 1070 is quite close to your 1070 Ti
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/11785395

Also now that I have a 8600k I will OC it to 5Ghz and I will show you! 😛

j/k enjoy it mate
 
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