Installing laminate flooring on a slab

[XMan]

The flooring I'm looking at supposedly doesn't require brad nails, just a plastic moisture barrier, when installed onto concrete.

But won't laying down the plastic make the flooring more likely to shift around, and thus, need nails? And would a brad nailer even punch into a slab?

 

[ThePresence]

I would think you'd need a subfloor, but I can be wrong.

 

[XMan]

Originally posted by: ThePresence
I would think you'd need a subfloor, but I can be wrong.

Doesn't seem like it?

 

[Barrak]

Never did it on concrete, but I would think all you would need is the vapor barrier like they say. I dont remember the brand(s) we have used but I have done 2 kitchens and a bathroom with the stuff. We just got what we used from Lowes or Home depot. No nails needed but we did use glue (they instruct you to for humid areas like bathrooms) Super super easy to do, throw some new baseboard molding on after your done and it looks very nice. One tip, Definatly plan for expansion like they tell you, this stuff will shrink and grow with the weather.

 

[imported_weadjust]

Make sure the concrete is 100% level or the laminate flooring will squeak and pop when walked on. Buy a good quality pad/moisture barrier.

 

[SampSon]

If you put the moisture barrier and flooring down property, it won't shift.

 

[amdskip]

I would think that a subfloor would be best if you had the headroom to work with. I think I would use some foam insulation and wood to build a frame and 1/2" plywood but that is a lot of work.

 

[dullard]

I've done it a few times and I've seen others do it. Never a problem yet. I did use a good foam layer to soften the impact on your body as you walk.

Just make certain that the concrete is flat. Laminate over an uneven surface is easilly detectable for the person walking on it (you'll feel the laminate bending under your weight).

I just don't see a massive slab shifting like you are worried about. And that is what quarter-round is made for - to cover any gap.

 

[elektrolokomotive]

It's extremely unlikely the floor will shift once laid. The weight of the floor is pretty high once it's all locked together, espcially if you're doing a fairly large space. If you don't lay down a moisture barrier, moisture will leach off the slab into the laminate.

 

[Engineer]

I've done one on concrete and it's fine. I placed the vapor barrier down and started on one wall, leaving about a 1/4" gap. Once finished, I placed stained quarter round around the edges and the floor is as steady as a rock.

Edit: See what dullard said above!

 

[TravisT]

If you haven't done it before, I would recommend hiring a professional. While some people can get away with doing it themselves, you might be better off saving yourself the headache and paying a couple of extra hundred bucks or whatever it costs.

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

The vapor barrier is necessary. That type of floor is supposed to float. Don't worry it won't shift on you once it's installed.

 

[XMan]

Originally posted by: Engineer
I've done one on concrete and it's fine. I placed the vapor barrier down and started on one wall, leaving about a 1/4" gap. Once finished, I placed stained quarter round around the edges and the floor is as steady as a rock.

Edit: See what dullard said above!

Why quarter round rather than regular baseboard? Just personal preference? (I can't stand the looks of quarter round . . . just looks cheap to me compared to a nicely carved baseboard.)

Menard's has a laminate floor install kit with 1/4" spacers, but I figure I'll save the money and just buy few 1/4" dowel rods for a tenth of the price and use them. You use any sealer? I'm definitely going to lay a bead of silicone down around the perimeter in the gap . . .

Originally posted by: TravisT
If you haven't done it before, I would recommend hiring a professional. While some people can get away with doing it themselves, you might be better off saving yourself the headache and paying a couple of extra hundred bucks or whatever it costs.

It would be a lot more than a couple hundred bucks. I'm pretty handy with that sort of thing - it's not nearly as hard as putting together a computer, IMO. Just wasn't sure about laying it on a slab, I was concerned that the moisture barrier might slip on the concrete.

 

[dullard]

Originally posted by: XMan
Why quarter round rather than regular baseboard? Just personal preference? (I can't stand the looks of quarter round . . . just looks cheap to me compared to a nicely carved baseboard.)

Quarter round makes for a clean look after installing flooring of many types (tile, hardwood, laminate, etc). You try to have maybe a 1/4" space all around. But, due to cutting imperfectly, uneven walls, corners and bends, you won't be a perfect constant 1/4" space. Sometimes you may be a bit closer to the wall, sometimes, you'll be a bit further from the wall. Regular baseboard is often 1/4" to 3/8" thick. Even with 3/8" thick baseboard, you'll probably have a gap here or there that your flooring didn't quite fill. Unless, of course you have a really easy flooring job and or you take a lot of time to do it well (with lots of scrap pieces thrown away due to improper cuts, $$$). Or, I suppose you could go with more expensive, thicker baseboard.

Me, I was lazy and cheap. I did remodels and I left the old baseboard on the wall. Then a little quarter round to finish the look. Replacing baseboard is a pain in the neck, and you often can't reuse it so it can be expensive.

Menard's has a laminate floor install kit with 1/4" spacers, but I figure I'll save the money and just buy few 1/4" dowel rods for a tenth of the price and use them. You use any sealer? I'm definitely going to lay a bead of silicone down around the perimeter in the gap . . .

I had a couple of old tiles laying around. They were about 1/4" thick. Free spacers. You really don't need many. I hadn't thought about any sealer like that.

I was concerned that the moisture barrier might slip on the concrete.

If you are concerned about the moisture barrier slipping, you can tape it down. Heck, you probably have to tape it down so it doesn't slide around when you are installing the laminate. I found it much easier that way.

 

[XMan]

It turned out great. Now I just have to get the rest of the house finished . . .

One thing I did learn, it definitely is a must to have a helper if your room is very wide . . . as you put the horizontal rows together, then snap them into the previous row. If you're doing it alone it's a real pain to slide over to one side, get everything locked in, then find that the other side has popped out.