xBiffx
Diamond Member
- Aug 22, 2011
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Curious where you came up with your 11 MPG figure anyways. My 19 MPG is an actual average. So for me, it makes no sense to get a second vehicle just for commuting.
God DAMN, you are DENSE. I didn't say YOUR truck. Learn how to read.
God DAMN, you are DENSE. I didn't say YOUR truck. Learn how to read.
xBiffx, seems like you are in a unique position. Sounds like you have a city job, but like to live in the outskirts. I think approaching a car/truck purchase with 100% logic is kind of dumb. If we were 100% logical, we'd still be using 1950's trucks with airbags and crumple zones.
An accountant in your position would probably buy a 1995 F150 for $3500 and a ~2000's Honda Civic/Accord for the commute. But you know what? That would be boring as hell. Then again, they'd probably also live in an efficiency apartment and eat manager's specials.
Money is meant to make your life better and I'm sure working in the brand new F150 is much better than commuting in a shit box for 30 years.![]()
God DAMN, you are DENSE. I didn't say YOUR truck. Learn how to read.
Funny. I have a green 1995 F150 5MT V6 with about 10,000 miles. It's a little beat up on the outside, but it's mechancally sound, the engine doesn't even burn a drop of oil. I also have a 2000 Insight 5MT with 180,000 miles, which I'd trust to let my grandmother drive across the country.
I suspect I enjoy my vehicles a lot more than many on here do, and with my current savings rate, I won't be commuting for 30 years as I'll be able to retire in my early 30's.
Money is power and freedom. Possessions are baggage and liability.
You might be absolutely shocked at what that truck is worth. New trucks are going for $45k+, and I was stunned to learn that my 2008 with 90,000 miles is worth pretty much the same amount of money as it was when I bought it. It's insane how much car prices have increased due to inflation caused by 0% interest rates.
HA! That changes things, but I bet you can still get $10k for it.
Edit: Verified on several websites that '93's with similar mileage are going for $6 - $9k!
So rolling resistance goes to zero as you increase weight, leaving aerodynamics and conservation of momentum as the only applicable factors?
Tow much?
Money is power and freedom.
Only to those who don't know how to spend their money wisely.Possessions are baggage and liability.
Is this the point where we call YOU dense for overestimating fuel savings to the tune of 300%? Or do we take the high road and just ignore your hypocrisy?
The high road is never any fun. You're a jackass.
Yes. Though, admittedly, it's rarely more than a ton.
I suspect I enjoy my vehicles a lot more than many on here do, and with my current savings rate, I won't be commuting for 30 years as I'll be able to retire in my early 30's.
Money is power and freedom. Possessions are baggage and liability.
That really depends on the quality of your retirement and what you are going to do. Living on a poverty budget so you can retire on a poverty budget doesn't sound like a whole lot of fun to me (but it might be to you). You can live for not a lot of $ if you are pretty self sufficient and have your home paid off (and being super frugal is really a rewarding hobby within itself). You just have a much smaller budget for doing stuff that costs $ (everything away from home). So you find yourself at 35 sitting around your house. Note: I'm also NOT in the spend $ YOLO camp lol.
So since this thread is already way off topic... what is your plan?
Once we hit around $500,000 invested, interest will cover the cost of our living and and working will become optional (supplemental income for fun stuff, not mandatory). I don't plan to quit working but I'll have the freedom to pick jobs I enjoy more even if they pay less, and take vacations whenever it suits me.
60-80% savings rate, basically. We're very happy and comfortable living on less than $20,000 per year, and have little student debt. We own both of our cars, are in great health, and have both embraced frugality as a hobby. We don't drink or smoke, or have expensive habits like designer clothing, gambling, or whatever else people spend money on.
Ahhh to be young and full of plans......enjoy Yuriman. With your current outlook on life you will go far. Your math is sound and the goal is certainly obtainable. Just don't be too suprised if where you end up in 15ish years looks nothing like what you mapped out.
Except all of those things you listed aren't true. Just because a tire wears faster down the center, doesn't mean it's magically going to brake significantly worse, that it will "pop" because of higher pressure, or handle poorly in wet conditions. In fact, on hot days, tires with higher pressures heat up a lot less if at all compared with tires that have significantly less inflation. I've seen tires inflated to 32psi heat up and get to 40psi but a tire inflated to 40psi may only increase about 2 psi. That means, quite a lot of heat is being generated in the tires, therefore wasted fuel, etc. Most tires blow out due to excess heat not excess pressure.
I never said that too much pressure won't bow out a tire in the middle, causing uneven wear. Also too much pressure is also a relative term. Some people think you cannot exceed door jamb pressure when in fact, it's usually a good idea especially if you drive fast and or aggressively. I absolutely hate the way my Camry drives with only 32psi front, 30 rear so I do 44 in the front and 40 in the rear. I tried 44 in the rear but the center started to wear more so I went with 40 which has similar rolling resistance and better handling anyway (no affect on fuel economy).And this is why you're full of it. You say too much air pressure won't bow a tire out in the middle and cause uneven wear. But then you claim an over-inflated tire will have less heat (friction) vs one at normal inflation. How can an overinflated tire have less friction without having a smaller contact patch than a correctly inflated tire?
The reason an "over-inflated" tires would have less heat/friction should be obvious. There isn't too much sidewall deflection when driving over bumps in the road, therefore less heat is generated. More pressure means less tire deflection and therefore less heat. Simple.How can you say an over-inflated tire can have the same grip and braking distance as a correctly inflated tire but then say it creates less heat/friction?
The only thing you have to your argument is a study from 1980 on an obscure website. Real world experience does not agree with you or what you argue; anyone reading your posts in this thread should take them with a tablespoon or two of salt.
