I'm having car starting problems-can anyone help?

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
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I'm having sporadic starting problems. Sometimes when I go to drive it , the battery seems fine and it does the "chugga-chugga-chugga" thing fine but it wont actually "turn over" and start. Other times it thing and sometimes it acts like the battery is completely dead and will just give me clicks when I try and start it.

I'd think this might be the alternator but its off and on. I'll have problems for a day or two and then it will vanish and I wont have a problem for a week or two.

The latest instance was yesterday and today. Yesterday, after it had been parked for about 4 days, it acted like the battery was completely dead. No lights on/doors open that I know of. So I got it jump started, drove around for 1/2 hour then left it running in the driveway for another hour when I got back. This morning the "chugga-chugga" starting noise sounded fine but it wouldnt turn over and start until maybe the 5th try and after giving it 10 minutes.

Any clues?
 

notfred

Lifer
Feb 12, 2001
38,241
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"turn over" is a reference to, well, the inside of the engine turning over. If the motor is spinning, it's turning over. It can turn over without starting.

If the motor's not turning over at all, and you're jsut getting a clicking sound, it's probably elecetrcal. Get your battery tested (Autozone will do it for free).

If it turns over and won't start, that's something totally different.

At some point the car will turn over, but not start, then you'll come back half an hour later and it'll start just fine. While other times the car won't turn over at all, you'll come back half an hour later, and it'll start just fine. <- is that correct?
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
1
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At some point the car will turn over, but not start, then you'll come back half an hour later and it'll start just fine.


Exactly.


While other times the car won't turn over at all, you'll come back half an hour later, and it'll start just fine. <- is that correct?


When it wont "turn over" the battery is usually dead and I just hear clicking.
 

XMan

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
12,513
49
91
Either the battery or the starter. I'd have the battery checked first, it's cheaper. ;)
 

Harvey

Administrator<br>Elite Member
Oct 9, 1999
35,057
67
91
It could also be your solenoid. If you're sure you know where it is, someone can safely short across the terminals with something like a long screwdriver blade while you try to start the car. This won't fix it, but it will identify the problem.

Your safest bet (also the most expensive) is to head to your mechanic's shop.

Good luck. :)
 

Vette73

Lifer
Jul 5, 2000
21,503
9
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Sounds liek 2 different problems.

What is the year, make, model, engine size, and miles.
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
1
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Originally posted by: Harvey
It could also be your solenoid. If you're sure you know where it is, someone can safely short across the terminals with something like a long screwdriver blade while you try to start the car. This won't fix it, but it will identify the problem.

Your safest bet (also the most expensive) is to head to your mechanic's shop.

Good luck. :)

if I wanted to try that, can you give me a little more information? what would I look for/what would it identify if I tried that?
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
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Originally posted by: Marlin1975
Sounds liek 2 different problems.

What is the year, make, model, engine size, and miles.



Sorry.

1992 honda civic DX, 1.5L, 125K miles.
 

Thegonagle

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2000
9,773
0
71
Is the problem worse or more frequent after the engine is warm, especially in warm weather, or did it used to exhibit this behavior only intermittently under those circumstances?

(Yes it's two different problems, I'm working on the "chugga-chugga-chugga" but won't start problem.)
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
1
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Originally posted by: goodoptics
Peform a load test on the battery first to determine if it is a factor of the problem.

Will do tommorow at the local shop. Had it tested two months ago when it was exhibiting the same problems and it tested OK by autozone.


Is the problem worse or more frequent after the engine is warm, especially in warm weather, or did it used to exhibit this behavior only intermittently under those circumstances?


I believe it USED to exhibit this behavior more under those circumstances....and I dont remember any of this happening during the winter, so that might be a point. No difference between its behavior in 60 degree and 100 degree days though. Today and yesterday was 70 tops. But compared to winter, perhaps.
 

Ornery

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
20,022
17
81
How old is the battery? If it's over three years, throw a new one in there, what the hell. While you're at it, make sure ALL the connections are clean and tight, from the battery to the starter/solinoid, to the alternator and relay. BTW, the relay itself may have corrosion or have poor contacts due to arcing. If that's only a few bucks (not likely in a foreign car) throw one of those at it too.
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
1
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Originally posted by: Ornery
How old is the battery? If it's over three years, throw a new one in there, what the hell. While you're at it, make sure ALL the connections are clean and tight, from the battery to the starter/solinoid, to the alternator and relay. BTW, the relay itself may have corrosion or have poor contacts due to arcing. If that's only a few bucks (not likely in a foreign car) throw one of those at it too.



Battery....is probably 15-18 months old. Maybe slightly newer. My spedific car is VERY limited in terms of what batteries will fit so its basically just one specific (very small) battery at sears. I look at the connections today, they looked OK. I have two wires running to the trunk for some audio amplifiers, which I will disconnect to remove ALL possibility that they are malfunctioning and draining it while the car is off.

i have no idea what a relay is but will ask. :D
 

Thegonagle

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2000
9,773
0
71
OK, that's what I thought. You need a new "main relay." It seems that every Civic needs a new one at some point. It's not a few bucks, but it's virtually guaranteed to solve "chugga-chugga no start."

Go to the dealership and pick one up. It's $60-65. Then pull the fuse box cover and look up under there the thing that looks like the thing you just bought. It's held in place by one little bolt, and the wire harness just plugs in to it.

If the "click, no chugga" problem persists, it might be new/rebuilt starter time. I'm not sure if the main relay can cause that problem. If my Civic wasn't at my mom's place right now, I'd check it out for you by unplugging the relay and trying to crank the engine, but I can't do that at the moment.

EDIT, I beleive Ornery was talking about a starter relay, which if I'm not mistaken, is integral with the starter solonoid on a Civic, like it is on many cars (but not Fords :p ). The solonoid is an electro-magnet that "pushes" the starter gear into mesh with the teeth on the edge of the flywheel.
 

Ornery

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
20,022
17
81
"No lights on/doors open that I know of."

If it ain't the battery, it's a connection problem. If the relay were only $6.00, I'd just throw one in there while you're at it, but that one's a little pricey! Doesn't cost anything to clean connections. Grab some wrenches, emery cloth and wire brushes and have at it.

It may very well be the charging system isn't working, but you may as well eliminate these other possiblities before taking it to the shop.
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
1
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OK, that's what I thought. You need a new "main relay." It seems that every Civic needs a new one at some point. It's not a few bucks, but it's virtually guaranteed to solve "chugga-chugga no start."

Go to the dealership and pick one up. It's $60-65. Then pull the fuse box cover and look up under there the thing that looks like the thing you just bought. It's held in place by one little bolt, and the wire harness just plugs in to it.


OK, AFTER I have the battery checked and I clean the connections, I will try this if my problems persist. Is "main relay" the technical term for it? :p I dont want to sound stupid. :D
 

Thegonagle

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2000
9,773
0
71
Originally posted by: Lucky
OK, that's what I thought. You need a new "main relay." It seems that every Civic needs a new one at some point. It's not a few bucks, but it's virtually guaranteed to solve "chugga-chugga no start."

Go to the dealership and pick one up. It's $60-65. Then pull the fuse box cover and look up under there the thing that looks like the thing you just bought. It's held in place by one little bolt, and the wire harness just plugs in to it.


OK, AFTER I have the battery checked and I clean the connections, I will try this if my problems persist. Is "main relay" the technical term for it? :p I dont want to sound stupid. :D

Do it now or do it later, you need a new one. And they'll know exactly what you're talking about when you say "main relay" at the dealership. I don't know if the Auto Zone people will, but I don't know if anyone besides the dealership carries them. If you can find an after-market part, more power to you, the OEM part is obviously not that great.
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
1
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well damm, look at this, from carpoint:

1992 honda civic common problems:

Common problems on this vehicle are failures of the Distributor and the Main Relay, and an occasional problem is failure of the the Oxygen Sensor. Failure of the Distributor or the Main Relay may prevent the vehicle from starting.The cost to repair the Distributor is estimated at $484.00 for parts and $52.00 for labor.aThe cost to repair the Main Relay is estimated at $48.00 for parts and $45.50 for labor.The cost to repair the Oxygen Sensor is estimated at $130.00 for parts and $33.00 for labor.All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.



I think I'll drop by today (if the car starts) and pick it up. I've never done work on my car myself but I'm going to try it. If I can't do it myself I'll pick up a service guide from autozone or something to help me. thanks.
 

Thegonagle

Diamond Member
Jun 8, 2000
9,773
0
71
If you've plugged a power connector into a motherboard, you can do this. You will need a metric deep-well socket, or a regular metric socket with a short extension, but I don't remember the exact size.
 

goodoptics

Platinum Member
Aug 18, 2000
2,652
0
0
Originally posted by: Lucky
well damm, look at this, from carpoint:

1992 honda civic common problems:

Common problems on this vehicle are failures of the Distributor and the Main Relay, and an occasional problem is failure of the the Oxygen Sensor. Failure of the Distributor or the Main Relay may prevent the vehicle from starting.The cost to repair the Distributor is estimated at $484.00 for parts and $52.00 for labor.aThe cost to repair the Main Relay is estimated at $48.00 for parts and $45.50 for labor.The cost to repair the Oxygen Sensor is estimated at $130.00 for parts and $33.00 for labor.All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.



I think I'll drop by today (if the car starts) and pick it up. I've never done work on my car myself but I'm going to try it. If I can't do it myself I'll pick up a service guide from autozone or something to help me. thanks.

I am 100% sure the O2 sensors have nothing to do with your problem. Since you stated your car has 125k mi, I suspect that the main relay (should be the one located on the distributor, open the distributor cap and you shall see it) has gone bad, usually due to excesssive heat built up over the mileage. The estimated cost of the distributor sounds about right. However, you don't have to get it replaced if it is still good. All you need to do is to replace the main relay, which shouldn't cost more than $100. I will find out more when I get to the shop tomorrow.
 

BigPotato

Banned
Jun 3, 2002
714
0
0
i have the SAME problems!!!

my car is a toyota 1996 camry

i have a pretty crazy stereo system in my car...will that contribute to this problem?

When i turn up the system, my lights dim when the bass hits......
 

Lucky

Lifer
Nov 26, 2000
13,126
1
0
I am 100% sure the O2 sensors have nothing to do with your problem. Since you stated your car has 125k mi, I suspect that the main relay (should be the one located on the distributor, open the distributor cap and you shall see it) has gone bad, usually due to excesssive heat built up over the mileage. The estimated cost of the distributor sounds about right. However, you don't have to get it replaced if it is still good. All you need to do is to replace the main relay, which shouldn't cost more than $100. I will find out more when I get to the shop tomorrow.



I wasnt trying to say that the 02 sensors had anything to do with it...notice I bolded the part about the main relay. I bought a new main relay last night from honda for $42+tax and just finished installing it. Car seems to start fine but heat and time will be the determining factor, I suppose.

Thanks to all for your help. I took digital pictures and plan to make a small page about where it is and how to change it for those klutzes like me.