im happy with my JL Audio 10w7, but...

[spidey07]

Glen,

Any decent software based RTAs for a laptop and a microphone recommendation? Maybe something with an outboard analog/digital conversion?

I used to have a nice one but seem to have lost it.

 

[glen]

Originally posted by: spidey07
Glen,

Any decent software based RTAs for a laptop and a microphone recommendation? Maybe something with an outboard analog/digital conversion?

I used to have a nice one but seem to have lost it.

I would think so, and they are definately worth having.
I have the Audio Control, so I ahve not kept up with the computer based ones.
I will check and see what teh word in the industry is and post back.

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: Howard
This is a bit of a stretch, but do you know the frequency of the bass line of the stuff you're listening to? Or does it vary?

no i dont. but if it does help, as i said earlier, I listen to a lot of vocal trance and stuff like DJ Tiesto and other trance DJs. As you may or may not know, trance doesnt really have drawn out beats like you may find with a base guitar in rock

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Acanthus

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: James3shin
actually, what do you mean by "tighter bass"? Are you looking for more isolated thumps?

yes

adjust the EQ

if that doesnt work

you need mids.

Maybe he just needs to reduce the gain on the sub amp.

yea I will play with the amp settings once I get the chance. I finished put everything in last night and didnt get a chance to fine tune the amp.

I will definitely play with the amp before doing anything else...

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: glen

Originally posted by: spidey07
Glen,

Any decent software based RTAs for a laptop and a microphone recommendation? Maybe something with an outboard analog/digital conversion?

I used to have a nice one but seem to have lost it.

I would think so, and they are definately worth having.
I have the Audio Control, so I ahve not kept up with the computer based ones.
I will check and see what teh word in the industry is and post back.

Thanks a bunch, I'm working on some subwoofer integration and it'd be nice to see it on the screen. My old audio control was a pretty darn good one. Had it for 15 years. bothers me that I can't find it.

 

[glen]

Originally posted by: spidey07

Originally posted by: glen

Originally posted by: spidey07
Glen,

Any decent software based RTAs for a laptop and a microphone recommendation? Maybe something with an outboard analog/digital conversion?

I used to have a nice one but seem to have lost it.

I would think so, and they are definately worth having.
I have the Audio Control, so I ahve not kept up with the computer based ones.
I will check and see what teh word in the industry is and post back.

If it is for the home, I have THE EQ you might want.
Rack mounted parametric EQ.
Thanks a bunch, I'm working on some subwoofer integration and it'd be nice to see it on the screen. My old audio control was a pretty darn good one. Had it for 15 years. bothers me that I can't find it.

 

[Aquila76]

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: Howard

Originally posted by: Acanthus

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: James3shin
actually, what do you mean by "tighter bass"? Are you looking for more isolated thumps?

yes

adjust the EQ

if that doesnt work

you need mids.

Maybe he just needs to reduce the gain on the sub amp.

yea I will play with the amp settings once I get the chance. I finished put everything in last night and didnt get a chance to fine tune the amp.

I will definitely play with the amp before doing anything else...

The amp gain and center freq. is probably the most important part of setting up the sub. Under/over powering can definitely make it sound muddy. IIRC, the w7 series is made for SPL/loudness first, precision a close second. They can eat gobs of power and make car crushing bass, but at a small cost of accuracy.
I have a pair of 'old skool' 12w6 subs (from '97) currently and I love the JL quality and capability. The things are nearly 10 years old and never miss a beat. I listen to similar music (BT, Juno Reactor, Rob Dougan, etc.) and they're great; strong (not 'loud') and tight.

 

[Aharami]

i was just looking thru the owners manual for my amp and it has Gain and Bass EQ settings. what should I set the Gain and Bass EQ to? or is it just a trial and error scenario?

 

[arcas]

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: arcas
1.3 cuft seems awfully large for a sealed 10" enclosure. Are you sure that wasn't the recommendation fora ported enclosure? I have a 10" Image Dynamics sub in a 0.55 cuft sealed enclosure.

link to sub specs
PDF link to owners manual <-- page 4 has recommended enclosure dimensions

Huh. I sit corrected.

Perhaps the 10W7 isn't designed to provide the type of tight non-boomy bass that you're looking for? You might a so-called SQ sub instead? I do like my Image Dynamics sub though it was kind of pricey compared to other 10" subs.

Another thing you might try is point your sub in a different direction or move it. If I locate move my (small) sub enclosure to the very rear of my 4runner firing sideways, it sounds different than if I put it right behind one of the rear seats firing rearward. Not more boomy, just...different. Can't explain it.

 

[glen]

PC based RTA:
http://www.trueaudio.com/rta_abt1.htm

 

[essasin]

I have two w7's now coming from three 10w6. I did have a custom box made but they they are cleaner, tighter, and hit hard. Make sure your settings are correct because these things will take some puinshment. I am sure its not as boomy as you think it is. If you want to hear boomy listen to a rockford fosgate or mtx sub.

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: glen
PC based RTA:
http://www.trueaudio.com/rta_abt1.htm

i gotta find someone who has something similar.

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: glen
PC based RTA:
http://www.trueaudio.com/rta_abt1.htm

If it's accurate and the PCs sound capabilities are up to the task the looks pretty good. only a 100 bucks as well.

 

[Aquila76]

Originally posted by: Aharami
i was just looking thru the owners manual for my amp and it has Gain and Bass EQ settings. what should I set the Gain and Bass EQ to? or is it just a trial and error scenario?

What Amp? JL has a walkthrough on their site for some of their amps with suggested settings.

EDIT: Oops, didn't see it in the OP. NVM.

 

[b0mbrman]

Originally posted by: glen
There is a special tool which is made for the purpose of diagnosing the problem with the sound; it is called an RTA. It escapes me why folks won't use one.

That's because it's buried deep in my closet underneath the oscilloscope.

Not everyone has easy access to an RTA...

 

[BigPoppa]

What is the cutoff frequency you're using? Alot of times, boomy bass is attributed to the higher (75hz+) frequencies, kind of counter intuitive. Having a good midbass/midrage speaking handling the duties from 75hz+ will reduce a lot of the boominess and also bring in the "tightness" that you're lacking. Like has been suggested above, a smaller enclosure is going to enhance the "punch" of your system, but it will also drop off some of the low end (25hz and below). Have to play the balancing act.

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: BigPoppa
What is the cutoff frequency you're using? Alot of times, boomy bass is attributed to the higher (75hz+) frequencies, kind of counter intuitive. Having a good midbass/midrage speaking handling the duties from 75hz+ will reduce a lot of the boominess and also bring in the "tightness" that you're lacking. Like has been suggested above, a smaller enclosure is going to enhance the "punch" of your system, but it will also drop off some of the low end (25hz and below). Have to play the balancing act.

80Hz. I see what you're saying. I guess I'll try doing whats possible with my current enclosure (polyfill, amp settings, etc). If I'm still not pleased then I'll just end up building another smaller enclosure

 

[Aquila76]

You might try this for your amp settings (taken from Ohm's Law and this JL tutorial). This is what I used to set up my system.

Make a CD with a 0db 50Hz sine wave (PM me for this if you need one)
Disconnect the speakers and sub from the amp(s) and turn the gains to 0 or lowest setting
Connect a Multimeter across the sub amp speaker outs
Pop the CD in, make sure all 'bass boost' and sound processing are off on the head unit, and set the volume to 75% of max
Watching the voltage levels on the meter, increase the gain on your sub amp until you hit 38.73V*
Turn the volume down on your head unit
Reconnect your speakers and sub to the amp(s)
Enjoy!

*W=IE and since the Voltage (E) is easier to measure than current, the formula breaks down to E=sqrt(WR) {W=recommended power for the sub, 500 Watts and R=impedance of sub, 3 Ohms} > E=sqrt(500 Watts * 3 Ohms) > E=sqrt(1500) > E=38.729833462074 Volts

 

[Aharami]

Originally posted by: Aquila76
You might try this for your amp settings (taken from Ohm's Law and this JL tutorial). This is what I used to set up my system.

Make a CD with a 0db 50Hz sine wave (PM me for this if you need one)
Disconnect the speakers and sub from the amp(s) and turn the gains to 0 or lowest setting
Connect a Multimeter across the sub amp speaker outs
Pop the CD in, make sure all 'bass boost' and sound processing are off on the head unit, and set the volume to 75% of max
Watching the voltage levels on the meter, increase the gain on your sub amp until you hit 38.73V*
Turn the volume down on your head unit
Reconnect your speakers and sub to the amp(s)
Enjoy!

*W=IE and since the Voltage (E) is easier to measure than current, the formula breaks down to E=sqrt(WR) {W=recommended power for the sub, 500 Watts and R=impedance of sub, 3 Ohms} > E=sqrt(500 Watts * 3 Ohms) > E=sqrt(1500) > E=38.729833462074 Volts

PMed

and thanks. I guess since the MRD-M1005 is rated at 1000W RMS @ 2 ohm and 14.4V, and I have a 3 ohm sub and Im getting around 13.9-14.1 Volts (normal in VWs), Id use E=sqrt(~700 W * 3 ohms)

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: glen
Howard, put in a volume equal to over 10 times the VAS of that driver and show us the graph.

http://www.rootminus1.com/howard/pics/jl10w7sealed-10xvas.gif

No matter how great the volume is, I can't get Q lower than 0.554.

 

[Aquila76]

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: Aquila76
You might try this for your amp settings (taken from Ohm's Law and this JL tutorial). This is what I used to set up my system.

Make a CD with a 0db 50Hz sine wave (PM me for this if you need one)
Disconnect the speakers and sub from the amp(s) and turn the gains to 0 or lowest setting
Connect a Multimeter across the sub amp speaker outs
Pop the CD in, make sure all 'bass boost' and sound processing are off on the head unit, and set the volume to 75% of max
Watching the voltage levels on the meter, increase the gain on your sub amp until you hit 38.73V*
Turn the volume down on your head unit
Reconnect your speakers and sub to the amp(s)
Enjoy!

*W=IE and since the Voltage (E) is easier to measure than current, the formula breaks down to E=sqrt(WR) {W=recommended power for the sub, 500 Watts and R=impedance of sub, 3 Ohms} > E=sqrt(500 Watts * 3 Ohms) > E=sqrt(1500) > E=38.729833462074 Volts

PMed

and thanks. I guess since the MRD-M1005 is rated at 1000W RMS @ 2 ohm and 14.4V, and I have a 3 ohm sub and Im getting around 13.9-14.1 Volts (normal in VWs), Id use E=sqrt(~700 W * 3 ohms)

NO!!! You want to use the recommended power handling of the speaker (500W), not the max output of the amp. If you overpower the speaker it'll fry the coil.

EDIT: If you look at the bottom of your sub's webpage, you'll see they recommend 500W, which would be ~38.7 Volts at the speaker outs.

 

[Aquila76]

Aharami, did you get this set up yet?

 

[mrchan]

Simple solutions: 1. Lower your crossover point. If it's higher than 80, set it to 80.
2. Calculate the volume of a brick, and set a couple in there and see if it helps.

 

[Aquila76]

bump for resolution?